SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
105 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So less than 12 months ago I moved to Cleveland from Portland, OR. They salt the heck out of their roads here - I mean crazy over salting. I haven't been driving much, and went through an automated wash every time I went out last winter (on average only once per week). The car was loaded with 0w-30 just before I left, so got around to crawling under the car to change the oil just today. Low and behold I find a ton of rust... for a 2007 S60R with only 10,000 miles on it I think this looks pretty bad. What do you guys think?<p>The parts in the photos are (per part numbers I got off VADIS): <br>(Photos are clickable thumbnails)<p>1. Bearing Anchorage (part no. 9143465)<br><A HREF="http://s602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/ninthsrw/?action=view&current=DSC04879.jpg" TARGET="_blank"><IMG SRC="http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/ninthsrw/th_DSC04879.jpg" BORDER="0"></A><p>2. Companion Flange (part no. 9480704) which comes out of the Angle Gear and connects to the Propeller Shaft<br><A HREF="http://s602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/ninthsrw/?action=view&current=DSC04876.jpg" TARGET="_blank"><IMG SRC="http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/ninthsrw/th_DSC04876.jpg" BORDER="0"></A><p>3. Catalytic Converter Exchange (part nos. 8603092, 8603224, 8603850, I think)<br><A HREF="http://s602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/ninthsrw/?action=view&current=DSC04877.jpg" TARGET="_blank"><IMG SRC="http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/ninthsrw/th_DSC04877.jpg" BORDER="0"></A><p>4. Higher up rusted bits that I haven't found part numbers for yet.<br><A HREF="http://s602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/ninthsrw/?action=view&current=DSC04880.jpg" TARGET="_blank"><IMG SRC="http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/ninthsrw/th_DSC04880.jpg" BORDER="0"></A><p>I find the companion flange at the angle junction to be particularly disconcerting, given the well documented fragility of angle gears. <br>Scratching the bearing anchorage "gently" with a standard screw driver did little to reveal bear metal - the rust is pretty thick. I'm afraid to touch the companion flange. <br>There are clearly some rusted bits higher up in the engine bay, but they are at weird angles, and I was just using rhino ramps, so I can't really tell what they are enough to look them up. <p>Any insight on how normal or abnormal this is would be much appreciated. <br>It you do think it is abnormal, any opinions on what I should do about it (including the obvious: invoke the rust part of the warranty) would be much appreciated.<p>I should add that the rest of the underbody looks to be pretty rust free - thus increasing my alarm that these few parts seem to be so thoroughly covered<p>Also should add that the car is garaged in a good, dry, climate controlled (as in slightly heated during the winter) garage year round... thus compounding my surprise.<p>Thank you for all the feed back thus far<BR><BR>
<i>Modified by ninthsrw at 8:15 PM 7-5-2009</i>
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,486 Posts
Re: Rusted To Death in 1.5 Years !?!?! (ninthsrw)

meh, I spent yesterday under our XC90 and those parts looked the same. It has never seen snow, maybe whiffed some salty ocean air occasionally.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
204 Posts
hows about the rotors? Mine are rusty as hell. Bronze looking. Actually an interesting look against the silver peg. <br> The R sits 5 days a week, but even when driven, the rust doesn't seem to wear away. Any suggestions on getting a silver rotor back?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,942 Posts
Re: (Needsdecaf)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Needsdecaf</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Totally normal in states with salt. </TD></TR></TABLE><p>Agreed not a big deal at all. <p>Normal for bare metal being outside year round.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,697 Posts
Re: (jpbb03)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>jpbb03</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hows about the rotors? Mine are rusty as hell. Bronze looking. Actually an interesting look against the silver peg. <br> The R sits 5 days a week, but even when driven, the rust doesn't seem to wear away. Any suggestions on getting a silver rotor back?</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Yeah they rust fairly easily. You can scrub the rust off and paint them, something I need to do fairly soon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
105 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Re: (Jexx)

This scrubbing and painting idea intrigues me.<br>Do others do this.<br>Does this cause problems with heat transfer/thermodynamics, especially on an exhaust component? <br>Any particular paint recommended?<br>Any particular scrubbing method or tools of note? I was thinking maybe a BBQ grill brush?<p>For the record, the car is garaged in a good, dry, climate controlled (as in slightly heated during the winter) garage year round... thus compounding my surprise.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
105 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Re: (jpbb03)

I had this problem in the winter. It was especially bad on days when I was out driving and the roads had been salted on the same morning. However, all the rust / bronze color wore off quite quickly. Maybe I was lucky. Maybe the bronzing is due to heating and cooling cycles / tempering sort of thing? Are you using stock pads and rotors?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,522 Posts
Re: Por15

They salt the roads here as well. In fact my rear exhaust heat shield is nearly toast. Thanks to Sean (hewinutah) for making his old one available to me!<p>As for the surface rust on parts, I've used Por 15 on some things that I've found offensive, or important. <A HREF="http://www.por15.com" TARGET="_blank">http://www.por15.com</A>/.<p>If you want to scare yourself, there's a shot of my current rear muffler at this thread: <A HREF="http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=117627" TARGET="_blank">http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=117627</A>
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,422 Posts
Re: Rusted To Death in 1.5 Years !?!?! (ninthsrw)

It helps to wash the underbody as often as possible during the winter to mitigate rusting. I wash mine after every snow, usually, a couple of times to clean it thoroughly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Don't heat your garage. That increases the rust by melting more of the water...and salt water is a lot more corrosive than plain water.<p>You'll always have some rust living over there however.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,097 Posts
Re: Rusted To Death in 1.5 Years !?!?! (ninthsrw)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>ninthsrw</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><p>1. Bearing Anchorage (part no. 9143465)<br><A HREF="http://s602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/ninthsrw/?action=view&current=DSC04879.jpg" TARGET="_blank"><IMG SRC="http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/ninthsrw/th_DSC04879.jpg" BORDER="0"></A></TD></TR></TABLE><p>That same part is used on Volvo 850's which have been around starting 1992. After 17 years it has slightly more rust but still fully functional.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,526 Posts
Re: Rusted To Death in 1.5 Years !?!?! (ninthsrw)

Welcome to the rust belt.<p>Hit it with some rust converter spray if you're concerned. For the time being it's probably mostly surface rust and, as others have said, it's pretty much the way things go out here.<p>-Eric
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
105 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Re: Rusted To Death in 1.5 Years !?!?! (Sue Esponte)

Thanks all for the reality check. <p>In retrospect, I agree with the no heating of the garage idea - fewer freeze/thaw cycles would probably be better, and though I suspect it would be negligible, I imagine additional heat should theoretically accelerate the rate of oxidation.<p>Looks like I'll be investing in some POR15 or Rust Converter... and some new "anchorages" and such if I ever return to the West Coast... <p>Anyone have advice on how to administer the POR15 and/or Rust Converter? Looks like you don't even have to clean before applying. <p>Any opinion on how bad / ok it would be to coat the lower / bottom half of the catalytic converter or angle gear flange thing with POR15 or Rust Converter? <br>Clearly, the "anchorage" is fair game.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
872 Posts
Re: Rusted To Death in 1.5 Years !?!?! (ninthsrw)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>ninthsrw</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks all for the reality check. <p>In retrospect, I agree with the no heating of the garage idea - fewer freeze/thaw cycles would probably be better, and though I suspect it would be negligible, I imagine additional heat should theoretically accelerate the rate of oxidation.<p>Looks like I'll be investing in some POR15 or Rust Converter... and some new "anchorages" and such if I ever return to the West Coast... <p>Anyone have advice on how to administer the POR15 and/or Rust Converter? Looks like you don't even have to clean before applying. <p>Any opinion on how bad / ok it would be to coat the lower / bottom half of the catalytic converter or angle gear flange thing with POR15 or Rust Converter? <br>Clearly, the "anchorage" is fair game. </TD></TR></TABLE><p>Why bother? Uncoated iron and bare steel is going to rust on the surface, it is no big deal.<p>As for POR-a5, I've used it lots over the years. For small stuff, the starter kit works best. If you really want to do a good job on something rusty, you can wire brush it first, then use their Marine Clean, followed by the Metal Prep. After that, you brush on the paint. Again, the starter kit is the way to go - will spell it all out.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,526 Posts
Re: Rusted To Death in 1.5 Years !?!?! (ninthsrw)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>ninthsrw</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyone have advice on how to administer the POR15 and/or Rust Converter? Looks like you don't even have to clean before applying.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>I agree with jr but if you do want to treat it, I'd clean it before applying. No need to make more work for yourself in application but if you go the <A HREF="http://www.eastwood.com/rust-solutions/treatment.html" TARGET="_blank">Eastwood</A> route, you can buy the Rust Converter and even the Rust Encapsulator in either a spray can or in liquid form (paint on).<p>It's easy to apply and will last for a VERY long time once thoroughly applied.<p>-Eric
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top