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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been having this problem only recently where my 04 s60R will run fine in normal driving, but now if it idles for too long after driving any distance, maybe 4 minutes later, the idle will get rough, then eventually 2-3 minutes later the engine will shut off and you can feel the engine surging and vibrating the car before that. I can turn it on again while pushing the accelerator in and she'll start, but the rough idling continues until I let it sit for hours then it'll go back to normal until this process starts all over again. It happens consistently, doesn't matter if I just let the engine idle for 10 minutes or if I actually drive it around then let it idle.

It only started happening after my indy put in a new fuel filter, boost pressure sensor, boost control valve, and a maf sensor yesterday morning. I also had a volvo OEM fuel pump put in 2 months ago, and a set of volvo oem coils about 1 month ago. My indy checked the spark plugs while he was doing the coils and they seemed perfectly fine, so I doubt it's that. No misfires either so I really doubt its spark plugs.

I only have a generic scanner that shows codes P0087 and P0090, which reading around seems to be the fuel pressure sensor. The fuel pressure sensor was replaced 2 weeks ago with a Bosch 31272730 part #, maybe 100-150miles ago, so I don't know why I'm getting codes related to that part, possibly a faulty part? I bought it at fcpeuro so I have a lifetime warranty on it at least. My indy lets me watch him do all the work and he didn't mess anything up so I doubt he had anything to do with this and accidentally let something get loose or something when he was working on it yesterday. He's been working on volvos for a decade or more so I trust him more than my own family members. The reason I've replaced so many parts in the first place is to try to get the car up to spec, some of these parts were worn anyway and needed replacing, and that it's been having a power loss issue at around 4k rpm at WOT where the fuel would just cut off. The power loss doesn't happen as often anymore after the new fuel filter, maf, and etc, but still happens.

I'm really at a loss here until I go back to my indy and he'll plug in his VIDA, hopefully there will be something there leading me in the right direction. Only thing I could think of is a bad PEM, or maybe the throttle body needs a cleaning (dirty TB could explain the power loss I suppose). I'm really at a loss here..
 

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If it didn’t do the stumble and stall before the FPS replacement that’s likely it, and that part is cheap. Try it first, especially since it’s throwing the related codes. You need to find someone with vida/dice setup nearby and have it scanned. You’ll diagnose quicker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm going back to my indy Monday morning, he has his own VIDA that he's used on my car before so I'll wait to see what that'll say. When I bought the car for the first 2 or so months I had a constant CEL light that'd keep coming back after I'd reset it, VIDA at the time was showing a code for a bad FPS. After changing it 2 weeks ago with the new part the CEL went away, and VIDA stopped showing a bad code for the part. Maybe I did get a bad part, maybe something came loose in relation to the sensor, I should be able to find out next week. That's why I made this thread in the first place, just stubbornness I suppose that there's no way it could be the FPS after only 2 weeks, but our cars can get complicated so who knows.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
It's at 141k right now

edit: Figure I'll add some more info while the car sits at idle with my obd2 scanner, might help

The RPM would get as low as 707rpm after ~8 minutes of idling, usually jumping back up to 720-730. Initially it would idle at 850, then slowly go down to 800...750...
I have consistent 395-405 kpa fuel pressure, even when it starts hesitating
Anywhere from 3.00-3.50 g/s for the maf air flow
Oxygen sensor voltage gets sometimes as high as .6V, and sometimes it'd go to .1V, but usually it stays around .4 (not sure if the oxygen sensor has anything to do with my problem but figure I'll add it in anyway)
STFT stays at around 0%, sometimes +1% sometimes -1%
LTFT stays at 0% always, I'm assuming it's because while at idle this doesn't give out a reading (sorry I'm not a mechanic lol)

Anything I should test for while I'm driving the car? Keep an eye out on the STFT and LTFT maybe?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
My mechanic plugged in a steam machine to check for leaks for the intake, and what do ya know there's a bad leak coming from the silicone pipe after the maf sensor that I couldn't see with the naked eye. New pipe is going to get put in along with a used PEM, car should be back to normal after that.
 

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Nice find by the mechanic. Now you’re ready to roll. Hopefully.
I just took the VR for the daily afternoon drive. I walk to work. It really relieves the stress of the days craziness going for a windows down drive on my favorite roads.

It doesn’t get any better than this. Enjoy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Got the pipe changed, no more leaks from steam testing but problem still persists where the car wants to stall. The car is definitely more responsive now, and instead of wanting to stall after 10 minutes at idle on a cold start, now its more like 15-20 minutes but still happens eventually. I thought I would get the PEM in today before I went to my mechanics but the shipping is running late so I'll have him put it in Friday along with cleaning my TB. I highly doubt a dirty tb would be the cause of my issue, maybe it'd fix the power loss at WOT, but I doubt it'd do anything to fix this stalling issue. Time to wait til Friday...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So update...I bought a new TB so that was put in (I was planning to do it anyway), new (well used) PEM, & a new battery. No change, car still wants to stall if idles for too long. Still have power loss issues as well between 3-4k RPM. I'm going to buy a new FPS and swap them out since when the CEL does come on I still get p0087 and p0089 with my scanner. My indy is also going to check the new fuel pump I had put in about 3 months ago for any broken lines or leaks. I had the fuel pump job done by another indy I go to that has actually done a fuel pump on another volvo I owned, so I doubt they botched the job, but maybe. The fuel pump in these cars aren't that hard to get to so the labor won't be too much, I'll have him look at it the same day I put in the new FPS.



These are the codes from VIDA. Nothing about the fuel system (as far as I can see), just small things for the stuff that I know is broken like the window washer pump and the sum module etc.
 

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The communication codes for CEM, BCM, DEM etc looks like the same indications I had when my CEM went out. I'm not trying to be alarmist, but just getting it on your radar. As far as the hesitation goes, I was thinking PEM, but it looks like you ruled it out. Good luck with your troubleshooting!

Sent from nunya
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for giving me the heads up on the CEM :). Trying to fix the issue I'm having now before I do anything else, but appreciate it.

And if anyone was wondering if my PEM was actually bad or not, yeah we can guess it was pretty bad. When I shaked the unit before I opened it up I could actually hear all of this dirt or sand or whatever this is inside of it like a salt shaker...

 

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Thanks for giving me the heads up on the CEM :). Trying to fix the issue I'm having now before I do anything else, but appreciate it.

And if anyone was wondering if my PEM was actually bad or not, yeah we can guess it was pretty bad. When I shaked the unit before I opened it up I could actually hear all of this dirt or sand or whatever this is inside of it like a salt shaker...

So being an 04, there is a PEM relocate kit so you can mount it in the spare tire area like the newer models. As far a cheap PEM replacement goes, give Nick a call at Re-Volv.com. I'm sure he has plenty of used ones.

Sent from nunya
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Good to know, really depends if I'm planning to keep this R for 3 or more years, and if I fix my power loss and rough idle issues I definitely will, otherwise I'm going back to an N/A car lol. Why would they place something as fragile as this part right next to the fuel tank I'll never know.
 

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I'm not sure which MY they changed the design, but I'm going out on a limb to say that theres a lot of snow and salt in Sewden.

Sent from nunya
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Problem was the fuel pump that was replaced by another shop 3 months ago. The hose at the end of the line where it goes into the passenger side was knicked, new fuel pump put in. No more power loss, no more stalling issues, no more CELs. This is apparently a pretty common issue when replacing the pump. Thank you FCP for their unlimited warranty.
 
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