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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a sleeved and built block from Vida, cav turbo and tube from zjw, the tune has lunch control. The issue is that when you rev it goes up a few k, comes back down than basicly limp modes it's self, we have replaced the accelerator pedal, throttle body, checked the harness, checked for boost leaks. Basicly: What could cause the ecu to tell the throttle to stay shut. Retarding timing, and going into limp mode. With zero codes ( cel or Vida )
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Got with jzw, we are reflashing mine and have another loaded with my key and flashed stock. It's just the last time the block was in it worked great (minus the fact a sleeve sank) this time only thing different is a smf. No idea why that would do this... It why the ECU would jack it's self up. It's been over a year since I drove this thing :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Update now the idle is crap, it struggles to stay alive, the CEL will flash but still no codes. Not even on Vida. All grounds have been checked and cleaned. Back of the cam's have been checked with the timing tool from Volvo. The crank sensor has been changed. 3 mas have been tried, 2 tb's both have been adapted each time. No boost leaks, coils are new, has great compression, we out of ideas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That gas is about a year old. No staybil added, but the techs working on it think it's still good, it starts, has almost OK idle, then struggles. A shop viva has do there work did the install, it was corrected by another shop who also sent the block back with incorrect timing.
 

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When I installed my Cavalli turbo and JZW tune, I could not get it running. Everyone thought it was timing since I pulled the head to shim the block, but I verified that several times... took a lot of frustration and trial and error, but finally determined that the tune was way too fat and flooding it out. Pulling the fuel pump fuse and cranking it produced a clean start (of course it died after a couple seconds since it ran out of fuel). Once he reflashed it, it ran much better and then another flash or two and it was running well.

How do your plugs look?

And since you changed the flywheel, are you sure that the engine and trans mating surfaces were clean before reassembly and all bolts installed tight? If not, your crank position sensor signal could be affected. See following threads for more insight. You can check the signal on a scope if you have access to one. It should be a sine wave. Also if your tach jumps on start-up that could be a sign that this is your issue...

http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=53441

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?197928-Tach-spike-on-startup
 

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I installed everything. We had the motor the first time, and it ran great except the fact that one of the sleeves dropped and had to be fixed. The car sat over the winter (with no motor) and the motor arrived back. Installed everything in the same manor, except the flywheel was different
We have checked timing, changed throttle bodies, changed cam sensors and crank sensor, replaced the whole engine bay fuse box, added an additional ground from the engine to the trans, cleaned all ground surfaces and sprayed all connections with electrical cleaner. Adapted the throttles, changed 3 maf sensors, changed the boost pressure sensor, changed the fuel pressure sensor, changed the fuel pump computer, checked compression, changed the accelerator pedal, checked actual fuel pressure (which is 55psi at idle when it's supposed to be 43)... changed the battery, disconnected the alternator... i can't remember what else. Vida shows no codes at all.
 

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Sure you have all the coils and injectors hooked up correctly?
Yes. I've done somewhere around 30 engine swaps on the p2 platform. This is the first and only car that i have personally experienced an issue like this. I work at a volvo specialist shop, and i have over 50 years of volvo experience standing behind me and they are just as stumped.

The only thing I've noticed, is that when the engine is off but the key is in position 2, the throttle will actuate properly according to the gas pedal being pressed. When the engine is running, the throttle plate will open/ckose on its own. Occasionally you can manage to get it to jump up around 4-5k rpm and only during those rpms is the throttle somewhat normally responsive. As soon as it drops below 4k the throttle goes unresponsive again.
 

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I'm debating on attempting to solder in the proper pigtails from a C30 we have for the injectors. The injectors on the car are using the c30/ford style injector style clips, and currently are using adapters.
 

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By the way the plugs were pretty black and wet. Most likely due to the throttle being stuck shut/lack of air.
 

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Check the fuel pump screen to see if its clear. I had a similar problem, when there isn't enough fuel pressure to rev the engine high but enough to keep the engine running lumpy or just at idle. 55psi to to high for idle, somethings wrong there..
 

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I would swap the ECM and injectors back to stock and see if it works. I also think checking the crank sensor signal is a good idea. Might also want to drain the tank and swap the fuel filter.

Also, a video of the thing running might be helpful.
 

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uploading videos now...
 

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Wet plugs, crap idle and no throttle response... sounds like it's running rich to me. Have you checked the fuel trims to see how much ECU is correcting? Swapping tune back to stock may help diagnose, but if you have larger injectors (which you should with that turbo), then it won't run right either so would be best to swap injectors at same time.

If that doesn't work then at least you ruled out the tune. I would be looking into signal issues at that point as suggested earlier.
 
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