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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all-

Just wanted to review my recent purchase of the Snabb turbo intake pipe for the C30.

As you all know, this is a 3" pipe, and it truly is 3" all the way (no indentations like some pipes). I kept my stock airbox setup in place as I merely wanted a bit more growl when getting on the gas and hoped for a bit more response.

From my initial contact with Kristian (the owner) at Snabb, I was very impressed with his response time to questions and his professionalism. I asked a few questions and he always answered them completely.

When I did order, the process was simple and his site worked well. I received the pipe a few days later and was very impressed with the care taken to package and protect all of the pieces. The box was oversized and well-padded. The hose couplers, band clamps and even the directions were all shrink-wrapped and sealed.

After tearing into the goodies:



Installation was as expected and went without a hitch. There was one step that called for the reuse of a bolt to secure the pipe to the engine block. I did not have that bolt (indicated as being an existing bolt). Luckily, I had an extra kicking around that did fit. I let Kristian know about this (another member here ran into the same problem) and he said that he would likely start including that bolt with future orders. :thumbup:

You can see from the before and after that the pipe is much larger, and obviously much cooler looking. :)



The quality of the pipe itself is very nice. There are no welds anywhere; it is one piece and very light. The silicone hoses are of good quality and the addition of Snabb logos make them look even more professional. My hose clip fit perfectly onto the nipples, no issues there, either.

After one week with the pipe, I am very happy. I definitely notice more growl from under the hood when stepping on it. Response seems a bit improved, though I don't really hammer the car to appreciate it, I'm sure.

I would highly recommend Snabb to you all, if for no other reason than to support a local, small business dedicated to good customer service and offering aftermarket Volvo parts - a limited market, as we all know!

Hope this helps anyone thinking of purchasing a pipe. :thumbup:
 

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I put my Snabb on today and I'd agree with that. High quality product w/ great customer service.

Trimmed the mounting bracket down a bit since it didn't really fit that well:


And added a small extension to the the vacuum line connection:


Sound baffles inside the stock connector:




And popped the MAF sensor off to check it out since it was only 2 extra Torx screws. Perfectly spotless inside; looked like a brand new part:



 

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Snabb intake pipes, so hot right now :mugatu face:

I plan on getting one when my plastic one cracks.
 

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Good evening. I'm installing the snabb intake pipe in my C70 and I wandered if this is supposed to be like this. Installing the bolt on the engine is a pain since it doesn't line up as it should. The bolt is to small and I'm not sure about the washers. The instructions are not very detailed. Also, is it normal that that clamp is so tight against the ac line?




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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hey socalc70 - The bolt included for install was also too small for me. Luckily, I had one that fit kicking around. I don't believe mine sat that close to the ac line, either. Are you able to shift it a bit by rotating the silicone elbow lines?
 

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^what he said. Rotate the snabb elbow so the pipe doesn't intersect with the ac line. And I found the supplied mounting bolt fits just about perfectly but could use a small washer to better hold the pipe.
 

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Thanks guys. I'll loosen it up tomorrow to see if I can shift it a bit. I'm not sure what the plastic and rubber washers are for but give the high temperature in that area I'm going to change them for a metal one.

The growl is very nice!


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Now that I'm thinking about it - the rubber (or plastic?) washer probably goes between the engine and the intake pipe to help hold in place and limit vibration - maybe I'm wrong, but I couldn't see a place for the rubber washer otherwise. It sure would have been nice if Snabb had included a simple parts diagram.
 

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Soooooo....just a practical question here: other than the growl and whine increase, did this do anything to performance? Other than looks, it seems to me to not do MUCH extra, especially considering it is metal and conducts heat wayyy better than plastic and is not insulated internally or externally. Considering your filter size doesn't change if you keep the same stock intake box, any benefits at all to have this other than the looks and sound?
 

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I found it to contribute to a smoother power delivery, but I'm not sure it makes that much difference (+1-2hp) unless you've upgraded the rest of the turbo intake tract. It doesn't detract power, though.
 

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I found it to contribute to a smoother power delivery, but I'm not sure it makes that much difference (+1-2hp) unless you've upgraded the rest of the turbo intake tract. It doesn't detract power, though.
Yeah I didn't figure it would help significantly. Are you going to wrap it to get rid of that heatsoak deadspot that the plastic OTE engine has or does this one not have it? I wrapped mine in fiberglass piping insulation and it no longer has a deadspot no matter how long the light is, which is nice. It makes power delivery smoother than just stock setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Soooooo....just a practical question here: other than the growl and whine increase, did this do anything to performance? Other than looks, it seems to me to not do MUCH extra, especially considering it is metal and conducts heat wayyy better than plastic and is not insulated internally or externally. Considering your filter size doesn't change if you keep the same stock intake box, any benefits at all to have this other than the looks and sound?
I found a bit of an improved throttle response when getting on the gas.
 

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Now that I'm thinking about it - the rubber (or plastic?) washer probably goes between the engine and the intake pipe to help hold in place and limit vibration - maybe I'm wrong, but I couldn't see a place for the rubber washer otherwise. It sure would have been nice if Snabb had included a simple parts diagram.
I put he rubber washer between the engine and the pipe as you say. But as you can see in the picture, it twisted when tightening the screw. Also I don't think it will hold up well with the heat. The plastic washer is just to small to be a good fit.


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I found it to contribute to a smoother power delivery, but I'm not sure it makes that much difference (+1-2hp) unless you've upgraded the rest of the turbo intake tract. It doesn't detract power, though.
Doing my first daily commute with the new intake and I definitely felt the difference in response and the smoother power like mercdude describes. Dunno about horsepower but overall it has improved my driving experience.


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reality is - outside of a tune, everything is an incremental improvement. Intake pipe helps a bit, intercooler helps a bit, inlet manifold helps a bit, throttle body helps a bit, catback helps a bit, etc. etc. Add those bits together and you've got a great foundation for a spicy t5.
 

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Oh hey guys - forgot about this: check your airbox intake snorkel for what I can only describe as an intake blocking plate. Follow the snorkel into the bumper and you'll see where the actual air intake is - and that's where you'll find it: a blocking plate. It literally prevents air from coming straight into the snorkel and instead makes the engine pull air from two side ports. I assume so roadway debris doesn't make it into the air box. But hey, if we're making the effort to increase airflow by spending hundreds of dollars and increasing 2.5" pipe to 3.5" pipe, take a few minutes to drop the front bumper and snip the two plastic rivets that hold that bad boy on and then zip tie the snorkel up in the remaining holes (where the rivets were). Now you've got a true cold-air/ram-air intake. When I did it, I reduced exhaust drone by 30-50%. Which means, I was getting an intake/exhaust imbalance thanks to my catback exhaust. I expect it will also improve with a drop-in air filter, or a full airbox removal.
 

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So I took the intake pipe out again and had a good look at it all. The washers and bolt are definitely not suitable for this application. After a week of use, both washers are destroyed. (See photo). Now I put it back in and with the intake pipe positioned, the tab doesn't line up with the hole where the screw goes. I have no clearance with the AC lines and if I want to put the screw in, I will have to push it back even further. What I'm I doing wrong? (See video)
https://vimeo.com/195139738


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So I took the intake pipe out again and had a good look at it all. The washers and bolt are definitely not suitable for this application. After a week of use, both washers are destroyed. (See photo). Now I put it back in and with the intake pipe positioned, the tab doesn't line up with the hole where the screw goes. I have no clearance with the AC lines and if I want to put the screw in, I will have to push it back even further. What I'm I doing wrong? (See video)
https://vimeo.com/195139738


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You need to take the pipe out, undo the hoseclamp for the silicone coupling to the turbo that's on the compressor housing, and rotate it. It is not aligned correctly, which is why you don't have space on your AC lines and why you're unit is off angle by about a half inch. Once you get it aligned correctly, you should be able to put the pipe in and out without any issues aligning it to the bolthole and without issues with your AC Lines.

Then I would go to home depot or ace or wherever you have a hardware store, get a bolt that's 1/2" longer, and then get two small metal washers that'll fit that bolt, and two rubber washers, and reput the bracket between two rubber washers with the two metal washers in contact with the bolt and engine to keep it all safe.
 

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You need to take the pipe out, undo the hoseclamp for the silicone coupling to the turbo that's on the compressor housing, and rotate it. It is not aligned correctly, which is why you don't have space on your AC lines and why you're unit is off angle by about a half inch. Once you get it aligned correctly, you should be able to put the pipe in and out without any issues aligning it to the bolthole and without issues with your AC Lines.

Then I would go to home depot or ace or wherever you have a hardware store, get a bolt that's 1/2" longer, and then get two small metal washers that'll fit that bolt, and two rubber washers, and reput the bracket between two rubber washers with the two metal washers in contact with the bolt and engine to keep it all safe.
Thanks for the input. I went to homedepot and got some rubber washers from the plumbing department and some metal ones as well along with a longer m6 bolt. Although I still don't have a lot of clearance with the ac lines, it did line up better once I turned the coupling some. I'm happy how it sits now.


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I took another look at my install - I just used the supplied bolt with a thin washer. Worked perfectly.
 
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