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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Stealthy had mentioned that when doing the glove test, the glove shouldn't suck in hard at idle, yet should just deflate slightly.
My R sucks in the glove in hard at idle. What is usually the result of excessive crank case vacuum????

My R has had a mysterious oil leak at the upper block vent to flame trap hose in the front of the motor. As in the large flanged vent that uses a 90 deg hose to connect to the side of the flame trap.

I've replaced the entire PCV system with no luck. I'm thinking, maybe i somehow pinched the vent hose that leads to the turbo inlet, so vent flow is restricted? Then i was thinking....

Is it possible that excessive crankcase vacuum is pulling too much oil vapor into the flame trap, then simply overloading the flame trap with vapor??? If it can't all condense in the flame trap as designed, maybe it's condensing in the junction between the flame trap hose and the block, thus resulting in a leak??

Thanks!!
 

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Hey man i am having this same issue except low boost and the dipstick pops when the crankcase gets pressurized. Peak into my thread.


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Close to 0.5 kPa vacuum will suck a glove in hard. That’s the proper vacuum a healthy pcv system develops at idle.



All brand new parts pcv system with updated check valves and banjo bolt on a later RN motor. That’s the official Volvo manometer tool for checking sensitive vacuum.
 

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The cause of your oil leak would not be crankcase vacuum - that is a good thing, CC pressure is what you don't want.

What type of clamp did you use on the elbow? Is the hose Volvo or aftermarket? IMO, the only way to go with that is a Volvo hose and the proper Oetiker clamp. Got pics from when you did it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Used a iPd siliconize hose with a ground down ABA hose clamp. Narrowed down the clamp for good fit. It fits on exceptionally well and the clamp is definitely proper. The car came with an OEM hose that leaked so I upgraded to the iPd one.

If my theory of excessive crankcase vac overloading the flame trap with vapor.... what is your thought on a faulty evap hose/check valve assembly being the cause? Maybe I have great vac at idle, but occasionally bleeds off because of a check valve?
 
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