SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,013 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Having a really rough time with what should've been an easy project. I have to car up on jackstands doing a bunch of jobs at once; delrin subframe bushings, poly buhsings everywhere, kw v2s, reverse switch, SS brake lines... the list goes on and on. Also doing the driver's side axle to transmission seal as it has been leaking for a long time. Went through a lot of difficulty tracking down the right PN as FCP has it listed incorrectly and it's hard to find on the volvo part diagrams for some reason. Finally got it installed, I ended up seating it all the way back into the opening for the seal in the transmission. Reinstalled the axle and filled it up with new oil. Came out the next day to find a puddle of oil under the car. I'm thinking I shouldn't have seated it all the way back and left it flush with the face of the transmission instead. Tried to pry that thing out of there and ended up snapping an outer ring on the bearing =/
IMG_20190422_110049.jpg
Is there anyone with experience on how to replace this bearing? Looks like it's the bearing on the diff correct? Maybe this is a good excuse to put in an lsd.
IMG_20190422_112907.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,464 Posts
I believe you have to split the tranny to do this so yea good time for an LSD. The bearing is on the diff. Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,013 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I believe you have to split the tranny to do this so yea good time for an LSD. The bearing is on the diff. Good luck.
Thanks, I will need it haha. I'm pretty interested in doing an LSD and obviously will have to do the "while your in there jobs," new slave cylinder, clutch, and SMF. I'm figuring I should probably do all the bearings in the transmission as well as synchros if that GB goes through. Did not anticipate spending $2000+ on the car at this point but I feel like it would be dumb not to from what I've read. Any other things I should do while I have the transmission out?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,464 Posts
Just do the bearings on diff, new LSD, new seals and use oem fluid works best with LSD from my testing. Maybe new AG sleeve if yours is worn. Grey RTV to re seal and good to go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,013 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Just do the bearings on diff, new LSD, new seals and use oem fluid works best with LSD from my testing. Maybe new AG sleeve if yours is worn. Grey RTV to re seal and good to go.
Yeah maybe I'll skip the SMF, clutch and slave cylinder for now. can only handle doing so much work on the car at once. Just bought a bunch of amsoil severe gear. You like OEM over that?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,571 Posts
You will hate yourself if you have the transmission out and don't do the clutch... And then the slave goes bye bye... Honestly cheapest solution if you don't want to spend a k on an LSD is to get a trans for 5-600 and slap it in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,013 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Gah!... Yeah I haven't gotten it out of the car yet, still doing all the poly bushings in the rear. I think I'll take it out and then depending on how much of a PITA it was, that will dictate if I do EVERYTHING or just barebones stuff. Would love to have an LSD but the current plan was 1.) suspension then 2.) intercooler/turbo upgrade and then 3.) tune. That LSD is pretty damn expensive...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,396 Posts
Dang. You'll be more careful next time you pry out a seal, I bet :D No reason to touch any othe rbearings unless your trans exhibited other symptoms.

You'll need a 32010x/q and a 32008x/q bearing - I'd recommend SKF or National Replacements which are metal cage, not the plastic **** they use from the factory. $15-$20ea if you look around. Safest to stick with factory gear oil. Cheaper if you buy the gallon container (31256775).

You have to pry out the races from the casing, make sure not to loose the preload shim behind the inner race (P/S of case).



I'd go with Quaife LSD. Subaru case sealant, or HondaBond HT (cheaper) 9143911 right side diff/coupler seal 6843481 D/S axle seal



make a suitable height workstation :)

You can see the plastic cage you broke in this pic, pre Posi install

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,013 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Dang. You'll be more careful next time you pry out a seal, I bet :D No reason to touch any othe rbearings unless your trans exhibited other symptoms.
Yeah really... haha. Impatience is my #1 enemy. You don't think they're worth it? If the others are 15-20 each, that might be cheap insurance. Although I'm not very knowledgeable when it comes to this subject specifically. And thanks btw, tons of great info you just gave me right here.
Man that LSD is tempting. <S>I hate that if the front left wheel loses traction in this car, there goes all your torque to the other 3 wheels.</s> (not true, found this out when I took the angle gear off and saw how it all worked) That price tag though...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,396 Posts
Yeah really... haha. Impatience is my #1 enemy. You don't think they're worth it? If the others are 15-20 each, that might be cheap insurance. Although I'm not very knowledgeable when it comes to this subject specifically. And thanks btw, tons of great info you just gave me right here.
Man that LSD is tempting. I hate that if the front left wheel loses traction in this car, there goes all your torque to the other 3 wheels. That price tag though...
There's 10 bearings, besides the two for the diff. Not that easy to dismantle, esp if you have no prior experience. I would recommend against it, unless you have noises and/ balky shift issues not addressed with shifter cable adjustment, etc.

The Posi is worth every penny, even on a stock car. Even more so if you've tweaked or plan on ever tweaking it. I'm also converting my C30 to AWD - I miss the AWD on my old wagon all the time, and the C30 is only around 300 with the K16/tune.

You should inspect the spline collar on the AG end when you pull the trans. Any sign of pointed teeth & you'll want to replace the coupler.



Can be a bitch to get off the diff. Anther reason to just get the posi, put new bearings on that & install a new coupler (inner seal 9143885 & green oring 976041 also) while you're at it.



You can reuse the diff bolts, just clean & re-loctite them

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,013 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
There's 10 bearings, besides the two for the diff. Not that easy to dismantle, esp if you have no prior experience. I would recommend against it, unless you have noises and/ balky shift issues not addressed with shifter cable adjustment, etc.
The Posi is worth every penny, even on a stock car. Even more so if you've tweaked or plan on ever tweaking it. I'm also converting my C30 to AWD - I miss the AWD on my old wagon all the time, and the C30 is only around 300 with the K16/tune.
You should inspect the spline collar on the AG end when you pull the trans. Any sign of pointed teeth & you'll want to replace the coupler.
Can be a bitch to get off the diff. Anther reason to just get the posi, put new bearings on that & install a new coupler (inner seal 9143885 & green oring also) while you're at it.
You can reuse the diff bolts, just clean & re-loctite them
Yeah I rebuild a lot of things at work (basically different types of swedish air cyldiners) but this is a different world. I'll take your word for it and skip it as I've had no issues at all with the trans other than not wanting to go into 1st/reverse when it's very cold out (supposed to lube the input shaft with some magic grease to help this?) Yeah I've been figuring the collar sleeve will be a must. Good to know about the diff bolts.
Are you going to go with an xc90 dem? Was just reading how you c30 guys have been doing that sort of recently.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,396 Posts
Yeah I rebuild a lot of things at work (basically different types of swedish air cyldiners) but this is a different world. I'll take your word for it and skip it as I've had no issues at all with the trans other than not wanting to go into 1st/reverse when it's very cold out (supposed to lube the input shaft with some magic grease to help this?) Yeah I've been figuring the collar sleeve will be a must. Good to know about the diff bolts.
Are you going to go with an xc90 dem? Was just reading how you c30 guys have been doing that sort of recently.
My recent Quaife (AWD M66) install thread for reference

The lube is spline grease 1161748 for the clutch disc, some bind/hang on the input shaft. Same stuff you'll need for the coupler.

Yes, I'm going to use the Gen 3 DEM. In some cases that doesn't work, so I'm preparing (with help) to make an arduino based controller in that event.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,013 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
My recent Quaife (AWD M66) install thread for reference

The lube is spline grease 1161748 for the clutch disc, some bind/hang on the input shaft. Same stuff you'll need for the coupler.

Yes, I'm going to use the Gen 3 DEM. In some cases that doesn't work, so I'm preparing (with help) to make an arduino based controller in that event.

Awesome, thanks. Nice! Yeah I was actually looking at that myself. Basically you just have to control the clutch control valve right? I was thinking you could hook it up in line between the dem and the connector so that you could control it however you wanted to get the desired clutch engagement, or you could flick a switch and have it run in a passthrough mode so it would just function as it was designed to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,013 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Finally dropped that old thang this morning!

IMG_20190602_125928.jpg IMG_20190602_125921.jpg

Gonna replace the flywheel, clutch and slave. Going with the TTV Flywheel + 06-07 Volvo Clutch and FTE Slave. This is my first experience with all this, how's my old clutch and flywheel look? They were pretty toast huh?
IMG_20190602_132906.jpg
IMG_20190602_132910.jpg
IMG_20190602_132916.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,464 Posts
Yeah maybe I'll skip the SMF, clutch and slave cylinder for now. can only handle doing so much work on the car at once. Just bought a bunch of amsoil severe gear. You like OEM over that?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
Yes I went back and forth twice from that and oem in a weekend oem is the best hands down. I use oem fluid in rear diff as well and Amsoil in the angle gear and motul 300v for engine oil and evans waterless coolant :beer:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,464 Posts
Disk looks ok the PP and flywheel not terrible but not the best.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,013 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yes I went back and forth twice from that and oem in a weekend oem is the best hands down. I use oem fluid in rear diff as well and Amsoil in the angle gear and motul 300v for engine oil and evans waterless coolant :beer:
Okay I'll take your word for it and go with volvo fluid for the M66. I have a few quarts of severe gear so I'll use that in the angle gear.

Disk looks ok the PP and flywheel not terrible but not the best.

Good to know I was just curious, they are getting replaced anyways.

I'm looking at the output shaft on the diff right now and noticing a lot of wear on the splines. I am replacing the collar sleeve for sure as the old one is worn. I had decided against the LSD for now but if this looks like these splines don't have another 30k in them I'm going to have to find a way to fund the LSD. I know it's hard to say but I was wondering what you guys think about the condition of them and if you were in my shoes, would you slap it all back together with a volvo sleeve and run it til it fails?

IMG_20190603_104110.jpg IMG_20190603_104052.jpg

Also thank you all for the help so far, I really appreciate it! You guys at the top of the knowledge food chain on this forum are invaluable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,013 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Got the old bearing off, tried using a puller and the thing was just shattering! Had to use a Dremel to cut it off. May or may not have gone a little too deep and nicked the shaft lol.
But I just got the new skf 32008 x/q with METAL retainer pressed on. I decided not to do the other diff bearing 32010 x/q as I think it's more trouble than it's worth.


Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,013 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Here's the pry marks from when I stupidly tried prying that seal out. I've sanded it down carefully from 220 to 400 to 600 grit. Hopefully I won't have any issues. Got the new drivers axle seal installed and also got the new bearing race with preload shim installed.

Tried to get some of that Subaru case sealant but it's hard to find and it's also super expensive. Had a company cancel my order cuz they were out. Got the hondabond HT coming. Excited to seal this b!tch up and get on to the rest of putting this car back together.
Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top