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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Originally I wanted to find some two piece rotors for my car but was unable to convince this one company to make them. I wanted to keep the calipers and just change the rotors. I finally decided to try and replace the stock rotors with Stoptech drilled/slotted rotors. It took a bit of digging to figure out what I actually have size wise. I was told by Volvo that I have 19s in front and 18s in the rear of my 2017 T8 Inscription. I was finally able to get measurements on them. Apparently the fronts are 371 mm and the rears are 340 mm. Stoptech only makes a 366 mm which is 5 mm smaller in diameter and a 340 mm for the rear. I purchased the rotors and the pads. The pads I choose were Centric which is a brand of Stoptech. I did so as their tech service told me they would be lower dust. So we will see. That also took a bit of work to make sure I got the correct pads. The rotors are right and left hand sides due to the direction of the drilling and slots.

My next issue was trying to figure out what size the hex driver I needed to loosen the caliper. I thought it would be a 9 mm but that ended up being too small. It was also too large for a 10 mm. The 10 worked but was not ideal. I will see if it is an 11 mm. And of course the 9 mm and the 11 mm are really hard to source. Go figure. The Stoptech look nice and I suspect that they should work ok. My real desire is to stop the excessive dark dust. When I pulled the caliper I expected to see if the pads were greased at all at the edges. None what so ever. In fact the outside pad was glued to the caliper with a clear type glue. I measured them with a micrometer and I got around 11 mm for the outside and about 10.85 for the inside (Driver Front Wheel). The new pads only measure around 11.4 mm in thickness and this is after 10,000 miles. In my last service they listed the fronts as 9 mm and the rears as 7 mm (8800 miles). I know they just kind of eyeball with a measuring device. So that is close enough I imagine.

The bracket took a breaker bar 3/4 inch. That sucker had to be around 150 lbs. of torque and it came out very slowly. Overall the driver side went pretty well. I will weigh the Stoptech against the Volvo. The Volvo are definitely heavy duty puppies. I am saving the rears for a couple of weeks from now as the pads were out of stock and won't get delivered until 4/20. The front rotors hardly show any wear what so ever. As I understand the rear get a lot more pressure to help stop the car without it diving in the front. So I suspect they will be more worn. I barely had to retract the front inside pad to accommodate the new pads. The rotors cost me around $471 delivered and the pads cost around $76 delivered. I will try and get a few photos.
 

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Also you’re in a T8, so the regenerative braking takes a lot of the wear off the brake pads.


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2018 Volvo XC90 T6 R-Design with air suspension and B&W Sound system
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R1 Concepts is another option for brake components... I am now running a full Stoptech BBK in front and stock size Stoptech pads and rotors on the rear on my 2018 T6 and love them. No squeals or vibrations at all now. But on my 2016 T6 I was running the R1 Concepts rotor and pad kit with good results. I believe they even have a two-piece rotor option as well. For sizing I believe the T8 runs a larger size in front versus the T6 but the rears should be the same.

https://www.r1concepts.com/
 

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Also you’re in a T8, so the regenerative braking takes a lot of the wear off the brake pads.


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I wonder if changing caliper and rotor/brake sizes would affect the regen vs friction braking tune/balance. It feels pretty seamless in how it's tuned and I can't really feel when brakes take over from regen. I'm pretty sure it's all brakes in a panic stop situation but otherwise don't know how it transitions. While it'd be super cool to upgrade to the [email protected] edition BBK I'd be worried about messing up that balance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Here are some photos I took of the install: The last two shots show the caliper bolts as well as the bracket bolts.






 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So does anyone know if the caliper bolts are 11 mm hex? I know that a 10 mm hex fit but was sloppy. I don't believe they would use SAE size for Volvo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I wonder if changing caliper and rotor/brake sizes would affect the regen vs friction braking tune/balance. It feels pretty seamless in how it's tuned and I can't really feel when brakes take over from regen. I'm pretty sure it's all brakes in a panic stop situation but otherwise don't know how it transitions. While it'd be super cool to upgrade to the [email protected] edition BBK I'd be worried about messing up that balance.
My experience has been that if you don't change the calipers but just change the rotors that you will not impact the brake force distribution. That was one of my concerns with putting a big brake system on just the fronts. That would alter how the brakes work. What I did should not impact the regenerative capability of the car. I wanted to clean things up and give it a better look.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
R1 Concepts is another option for brake components... I am now running a full Stoptech BBK in front and stock size Stoptech pads and rotors on the rear on my 2018 T6 and love them. No squeals or vibrations at all now. But on my 2016 T6 I was running the R1 Concepts rotor and pad kit with good results. I believe they even have a two-piece rotor option as well. For sizing I believe the T8 runs a larger size in front versus the T6 but the rears should be the same.

https://www.r1concepts.com/
I did not see a two piece rotor for the rears or the fronts. Do you have a part number?
 

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Nice


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Looks good dr.m! :D
 

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So does anyone know if the caliper bolts are 11 mm hex? I know that a 10 mm hex fit but was sloppy. I don't believe they would use SAE size for Volvo.
I just put on a new set of rotors on my wife's T6R. I don't have an 11mm but I do know the 10mm was too small for my taste.
 

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Here are some photos I took of the install: The last two shots show the caliper bolts as well as the bracket bolts.






That is a beautiful rotor Drmanny3! I have a 2016 R-Design and my brakes squeal a little. Drives me crazy

Wondering if the R-Design rotor is the same size as the T8 Inscription?

Do you think the rears will be more difficult than the front?


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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
It turns out that the rear caliper is held in by the same type of Hex bit but 7 mm rather than the same size as the front. I was going to try and just change out the rotor for now until I get the pads shipped to me. I tried jacking up the rear driver side with no park and the transmission left in Neutral. The wheel is still impossible to rotate. Could be that the rear axle is locked into the electric motor? I was going to remove the caliper with the pads and then remove the bracket so I could get access to the rotor. I cannot get any leverage on the bracket bolts. They are 15 mm but there is no room to maneuver. I thought I could just pull the caliper but it is really tight. Are the pads pushing that tightly on the rotor? Or is it the wire lock mechanism that is on the front of the caliper. I did not try and remove that first. Maybe that is preventing the caliper from moving more freely? Anyway without removing the caliper with the electronic adjuster there is very little room to get a wrench in. Those bracket bolts have Loctite on them and are really hard to turn (experience with the front ones) At least on the front wheels I could turn the steering wheel and get better access to the bolts. Here I can't really get underneath the car (no hoist). Crap. The electronic adjuster no longer seems to be bolted on to the back of the caliper it appears that it is attached and used plastic clips to hold it in place. I hate that as those clips tend to be weak and are easy to break. This electronic adjuster is not meant to be removed a lot from the caliper. I am sure Volvo prefers that you use VIDA to release the pressure on the pads. Any ideas would be helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I decided to give it another try. The electric brake is what is holding the rotor locked. So I carefully removed the electrical connection which is nicely designed. I then carefully nudged it out. Whey you remove the two Torx bolts that hold the motor it wants to spin a bit. I was able to carefully remove it and then I turned the knurl counterclockwise to loosen it grip against the pad. I also removed the wire that holds the outboard pad tightly as well. This allowed me to remove the caliper and gain access to the two 15 mm bolts that hold the caliper bracket. Again really on tight. But I was able to combine some breaker bars etcetera to get some leverage. Took those off and the rotor popped out once I removed the lock nut. The assembly was in reverse order. I wound the electric brake knurl clockwise and put everything back together. Once I got everything on the car I pumped the brakes a number of times and started the car. At first the parking brake was not operating properly. Once I pumped pretty hard several times the light went out. Everything drives well. I am still waiting on the Stoptech rear pads to come tomorrow, but I won't have to remove the rotor. Everything was nicely packed by Volvo. I tip my hat to how robust they make these cars.





The old rotor. Notice how the pad scored and left a mark.


 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
I again measured the pads and saw some wear in comparison to the fronts. The rears were at around 8.5 mm. Here is a picture of the motor removed.





Not having a lift makes this work really hard. At 72 it is not so easy to move around as much as I used to. Getting up and down off the ground was difficult at times and slowed me down. I did this work not to save any money, but to figure out how to do it and then make it happen. I was really surprised how hard the motor pushes the pad against the rotor. There was no way I could move the wheel.
 

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I again measured the pads and saw some wear in comparison to the fronts. The rears were at around 8.5 mm. Here is a picture of the motor removed.





Not having a lift makes this work really hard. At 72 it is not so easy to move around as much as I used to. Getting up and down off the ground was difficult at times and slowed me down. I did this work not to save any money, but to figure out how to do it and then make it happen. I was really surprised how hard the motor pushes the pad against the rotor. There was no way I could move the wheel.
When I changed the rear pads, I released the power connector out by pulling the yellow part up, and then hooked up with a 9v batter to unwind the motor instead of taking it apart. I posted pics in this thread #55

https://forums.swedespeed.com/showt...own-brake-pads-yet/page2&highlight=brake+pads

https://forums.swedespeed.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48501&d=1550436622&thumb=1

https://forums.swedespeed.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48505&d=1550436662&thumb=1

I am not sure what's the part number for the other end of that connector. If there's one, it would be much easier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thank you, I had heard somewhere about using a 9 volt battery. That would actually be preferred to taking the motor apart. Did you then reverse the poles and try and re tighten? Or did you just step hard on the brakes to get them to seat?
 

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Thank you, I had heard somewhere about using a 9 volt battery. That would actually be preferred to taking the motor apart. Did you then reverse the poles and try and re tighten? Or did you just step hard on the brakes to get them to seat?
I just stepped hard on the brakes few times, and then flipped the Parking brake on and off few times. I didn't reverse the poles after replacing the pads.
 
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