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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
1. Start by removing the waterfall, radio, cd-player, center vents, instrument cluster trim and panel below steering wheel.



2. Remove the screw on the dash



3. Remove the screw on the right. Picture taken pointing upwards from under the Ignition Switch.



4. Remove cable from the top, unhook. Picture taken from instrument cluster facing rearwards.



5. Remove cable from bottom, squeeze.



6. Undo clips holding cables in place w/ flathead (2 clips). Pull cable down and out of the way.

7. Remove lower screw, Torx 25 Allen key is useful here.




8. Remove upper screw.


9. Remove Ignition Switch via lower opening. (reason for removing screw in #2)
 

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Those are always fun, nice write it.
 

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Success! Thanks to Kamau for this write up. The job took me 2 hours, and that included thoroughly cleaning all parts as I replaced them.

A few thoughts:

1. For 2008+ cars, you are best to use this guide for removing the waterfall/cd unit. There is a sticky that shows how, but it is not the best method.
2. I completed everything using a T-20 torx bit, no other size needed.
3. I was able to remove the lower ignition switch screw by lifting the dash and accessing it with my t-20 bit in a screwdriver.
4. I was able to access the dreaded upper screw by using a t-20 bit in a ratchet and accessing it going in from behind the switch by the dash panel.

Can a moderator please sticky this as an ignition switch replacement how-to? It is much better than the one currently stickied.
 

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Gaaaaaaah! My wife reported that the same damn thing happened again today after a new ignition switch!

Insert key. Try to start. Nothing. Warning in the dash: "immobilizer try start again"

What are my next steps for troubleshooting. Soooo man right now. :mad:
 

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I have a similar problem, my 2006 V50 2.4i occasionally will not start, but there is no message or warning. When i put the key in all is normal in that the car comes alive, but several times now it just won't start. Sometimes putting it in Neutral it will start but not always. It has stranded us for up to a half hour but eventually starts.

It is at the shop now they ran a scan which was inconclusive. Now they recommend a new ignition switch with no guarantees. Can I replace the ignition switch and still use my keys? Does anyone agree that a new SCU is the way to go??? Thanks to Kamau for the pics and description.
 

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I have a similar problem, my 2006 V50 2.4i occasionally will not start, but there is no message or warning. When i put the key in all is normal in that the car comes alive, but several times now it just won't start. Sometimes putting it in Neutral it will start but not always. It has stranded us for up to a half hour but eventually starts.

It is at the shop now they ran a scan which was inconclusive. Now they recommend a new ignition switch with no guarantees. Can I replace the ignition switch and still use my keys? Does anyone agree that a new SCU is the way to go??? Thanks to Kamau for the pics and description.
I installed a new SCU thinking it would solve the issue, but as noted above, it is back. Yes, your keys will work just fine with a new SCU, but be warned, it may not fix it. I guess my next step is to check the battery and make sure all the water levels in each cell are good.
 

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Logan, it has been 10 days since your last post did you fix it yet? I am going to replace the SCU tonight. Yesterday it would not start all day. Today it started but i had to put it into neutral (which did not work yesterday). The difference is i get no message in the dash. Was your problem intermittent?
 

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The SCU seems to have fixed it. I did get a dash message on the last day it would not start. "Immobilizer see manual" was the message. It took me 3 hours to replace the SCU mainly because i could not get the center vent out and i was super careful not to break anything. In the end i never did get it out but it did not need to come out to replace the swithch. Forums are great. I also installed the Gateway Audio system thanks to this forum. Now I can play my ipod or iphone (using the RCA cable to headphone jack) on the premium sound system.
 

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Logan, it has been 10 days since your last post did you fix it yet? I am going to replace the SCU tonight. Yesterday it would not start all day. Today it started but i had to put it into neutral (which did not work yesterday). The difference is i get no message in the dash. Was your problem intermittent?
No, the SCU didn't seem to do it. It has only been problematic once since the new SCU (as posted) but that's still indicative of a persistent issue. It has always been sporadic and unpredictable, never leaving us stranded for more than a few minutes. My next step is to check battery cells and I will clean everything up around the terminals.
 

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UPDATE: I decided to pull the battery to check the cell water levels. Much to my surprise, every cell was way down. Topped up with distilled water, cleaned up the terminals, and keeping fingers crossed. I wish I'd checked this first, but oh well.

Will continue to update this thread if it recurs.
 

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Well last night, I got the "turn key and nothing". Position 1 & 2 are fine, steering unlocks, lights comes on, etc. Turn to start and was dead. Four tries later, started fine and has started fine a dozen times after.

Don't feel like getting stranded, so picked up a new switch today will be changing....

So here's the question: The switch I picked up looks just like the one in the pictures and is the right part number. It does not however include the bent metal tabs that the mounting screws go through and look like they just clip into the place in the appropriate spots on the switch.

I assume you un-clip them from the old switch and re-use?
 

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Having a similar issue, but I do not have any warning messages.
Just fitted a new battery so I know its not loose terminal, but I will perhaps try cleaning up the terminals.
 

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Went Out and Got the Short T25 just in case I got that Message again , as the Batter has been Flat Dead for 10 Months V50 Knight hasn't Moved ..
If Volvo was going to quote Me $800.00 for Reprogramming & SCU . .


It Must Be My V50 AWD just Wanted to Go and Be Driven , I Popped the Key and Waited a Tense 30 Seconds , I Heard this Dreaded _ Drum Click , Drum Click , I Heard the Fuel Pump
Prime Up , The Running Lights all came on , Dash Lite , ____________Turned the Key _____ Cranked 12-15 Seconds . . Dam - Fired Right Up & Smooth as Silk . .

Must Be from Taking Care of this V50 - I got Rewarded . . after a Good Long Warm Up & some Putting around . .

PS : Being from the Machining Industry and Sheet Metal Tin Smiths sort of Speak Housing for Super Computers and Communication Housings , Satellite Housings , Pure Power etc.
Have Done some Tweaking . ( Popped It ) or ( Tweaked SCU ) - just to make Sure .. not sure ( 100% ) If it ever had an Issue .

Looking Into Battery Draining _ Issues - but those may have been caused By Yours Truly - as - My Office is only 15 Ft. from Volvo -
Where I usually through My Keys - KEY-LESS SIGNAL


https://youtu.be/6FO1uGUgYtE
 

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You don't have to reprogram the ignition (SCO) when you replace. Just hope that your broken one doesn't clamp down on your key. If that happens, you can't get the unit out of the dash with the key intact.
 

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Key_Less : Lightweight Key is too Large for removing the SCU ?

What I don't get is the 10 Months Down Time , other then Possibly When it Kicked Out do to Dead Battery - after the Two Day Trickle
the Alarm system was Recharged ?
Thinking there is a Battery Back Up for that .. which Kept the CEM and Key Codes . . Alive _ Not sure as I have Never Looked into those . . !
 

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Right. When the SCU locks onto the key, even with the dash half off and the center console out you can't get the key and SCU (as a unit) out. I tried every which way, and there's no way outside of getting radical with a dremel. Without the key in, replacing the SCU is a tedious but very doable task. Btw, you don't have to take the center vents out.

And I have no idea what your issues are: with a dead battery, the SCU will not let the key out. Also, I found that the newer replacement units have less resistance when rotating/turning on as compared to the earlier units (pre FL).
 

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Thinking there is a Battery Back Up for that .. which Kept the CEM and Key Codes . . Alive _ Not sure as I have Never Looked into those . . !
Isnt there a "permanent" memory that would store it, along with engine map etc? I mean some settings in our cars are power-supported, like seats settings etc (I guess similar to RAM on PC) and some seem to be permanently written like in flash type memory. Would expect keys and other critical info stored in that other one, no?
So far longest period of my car staying with battery disconnected completely was 3weeks - thankfully, nothing happened except for seat memory and some basic functions...

mercdude - BTW, those FL units are terrible, hate them. Any time I start up FL car of my coleague It feels like broken ignition spring :/
just a OT statement...
 

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Isnt there a "permanent" memory that would store it, along with engine map etc? I mean some settings in our cars are power-supported, like seats settings etc (I guess similar to RAM on PC) and some seem to be permanently written like in flash type memory. Would expect keys and other critical info stored in that other one, no?
So far longest period of my car staying with battery disconnected completely was 3weeks - thankfully, nothing happened except for seat memory and some basic functions...

mercdude - BTW, those FL units are terrible, hate them. Any time I start up FL car of my coleague It feels like broken ignition spring :/
just a OT statement...
Yes they are stored in non-volatile memory. The equation that converts between the 6 and 9? digit codes on the package and the data present in the NFC chip and the remote is a secret known only to volvo and the genius mathematicians/array decoding specialists that can figure it out, but they are hardcoded until the software to remove a key is downloaded and run on the system, when then eliminates the CEM and ECM copies of the key codes specific to that key. Every manufacturer has a separate equation unique to them. It is usually a generic equation like how you see on math sites when they explain number series mathematics, except it's encrypted to like a 64-256K hash on top of that equation. In theory, a quantum computer if programmed to do so, could solve the problem in mere seconds however with a small number of samples. Modern day computers would need a few million samples and would then have to crunch them all to figure it out.
 
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