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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Sometimes when you try to lock/unlock your doors, one or more of the doors will not lock. The locks still work manually, but the electronic locking no longer works. If this happens there is a good chance your door lock actuator has gone bad. Fortunately it is a relatively easy repair.

Tools needed include a T25 and T30 screwdriver, as well as some plastic door trim removal tools like these. You may also want a small flat blade screwdriver handy.

First, remove the door panel.

Start by prying up the silver plastic surround at the interior door handle with one of the trim tools. Here is a picture so you can see what you're up against. There is a clip at either side of the trim piece. The first side is the hardest because the clip gets caught on the piece directly above it.



Next, remove the two T25 screws behind the trim piece. The door panel will capture them from falling and getting lost.

The inner door panel is attached by about a dozen small clips and just pulls straight out from the door. Use the trim tool to get in as close to each clip as you can to keep from damaging the door panel.



Unplug any connectors and unclip the cable to the inner door handle. Pry the two clips back and the cable end just lifts out.



Now peel back the grey foam noise insulation from the rear opening near the door latch. The picture shows the rear passenger door, but all the doors should be pretty similar. The glue holding the insulation on is pretty tacky, so you should be able to just replace the foam when you're done without needing any additional glue. Be careful, as it is pretty easy to rip the foam insulation.



Now you can remove the other end of the inner door latch cable. There are two small clips that keep the plastic retainer in place, and at the end of the cable is a "Z" bend like you would see on a radio controlled airplane. With the retainer unclipped you can just unthread the cable end from its hole. Threading it in is a little more difficult because you have to do it by feel, but you can probably transfer the cable to the new door lock actuator while the actuator is out if you want.



Unclip the outer door handle bar from the rear of the lock actuator. This looks like a bent threaded rod and clips in to a small metal clip. It can be a little intimidating to remove, but look at the new lock actuator to see how the clip works and pop the rod out in the direction of the ramp, not the two hooks. The metal clip can spin, so you'll want to determine which way it is facing first.



Remove the lock pin by first unclipping the yellow retainer at the bar and rotating it out of the way.



Unplug the connector to the lock actuator. There is a latch that must be depressed to remove the connector and it is hard to find by feel, so look at the new actuator to see where it is located. Mine were covered by cloth tape so I just kept pressing different places until the connector came off.

At this point you should be able to remove the 3 T30 screws surrounding the latch in the door jamb and remove the lock actuator.



On the rear doors the actuator comes out very easily, but there is a rubber cover that needs to be transferred to the new actuator before putting it back on.

On the front door space is much tighter and the actuator is a little bit difficult to remove. There is a metal tab about an inch long by 1/8" tall sticking into the jamb near the latch in that needs to be dealt with first.



Now you can rotate the lock actuator around the window guides and out. It is a tight fit and you might have to force it a little, but it will come out without damaging anything. Watch out for the other wires that are still there.

Reassembly is pretty much just the opposite of removal. The only part that needs any "adjustment" is the outer door handle threaded bar. Opening the outer door handle forces the bar downward, so I just lifted the metal clip up a little before reconnecting it so there would be a little tension on the bar holding the outer door handle tight. Make sure to double check that you have everything reconnected before putting the inner door panel back on. I forgot to reattach the inner door handle cable at the door panel and locked myself in for a bit.

Replacing the door lock actuators fixed my door lock issues immediately, even before the door panels went back on. In the US I believe all the doors have 2-stage unlocking and the only option is whether or not the rear actuators have power child locks (mine did). Other countries offer a deadlock option. I didn't need to go to the dealer to have the new door lock actuators activated or coded.

Replacing the actuators was not hard. I did both in about an hour.
 

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excellent, and timing could not have been better! My passenger door started buzzing etc when I push the lock button on the key. I would assume this is the fix? It is a buzzing, clicking sound like small electric motor stripping plastic gears. It is a short burst noise.

Appreciate your thoughts, or anyone else. My car is 04 xc70. Would it be prudent to replace all of em? Is there a source for the actuators, that would be cheaper than dealer you would recommend. THanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Mine that was still failing (worked about 1 out of every 20 times) didn't make any weird noises while it tried to lock/unlock. I didn't try to open up the actuator to see how it worked, but my assumption was that it used a solenoid, not a motor. Do you have the deadlock option? Maybe the deadlocks are motor driven.
 

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hmmm, I dont know if I do or not. Is that the button that turns the lock/unlock function off? If so, I do have that button on the door I think.

One of the other guys suggested it may be the vertical rod going up to the doorlock pin that may be binding. Im gonna buy a replacement b4 I pull the panel off, just in case it needs to be replaced.

Gp
 

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Worst writeup in human history. Just spent 4 hours and none of this applied at ALL!
 

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Worst writeup in human history. Just spent 4 hours and none of this applied at ALL!
So, what was wrong with your car?

I too thought the writeup sucked. It didn't help me change the headlight at all. Why did the OP bother in the first place? Sheesh.
 

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So, what was wrong with your car?

I too thought the writeup sucked. It didn't help me change the headlight at all. Why did the OP bother in the first place? Sheesh.
LOL
 

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Would you guys have any insight on to why a door lock actuator would lock but not be able to unlock? I ordered a brand new tailgate door actuator for my 2005 Volvo XC90 thinking that that would fix the not being able to unlock problem. When I installed it, t does the exact same thing as the original tailgate lock actuator. So it has to be something more than the actuator itself.

-Lock function works perfectly
-Will not unlock
-When I press unlock on my remote or within the car there is not sound coming from the tailgate actuator
-The emergency manual open lever with the red button inside the car still works

Could this be a fuse problem? Or is it something electrical? If so, would anyone know how to fix since it's fiber optics wiring? I've been trying to find an answer for this 3 months now :(. I have to access the rear of my car via the rear door and crawl into the back if there is anything I need from back there :mad:
 

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That sounds like a wiring issue if you aren't getting the positive signal to unlock the actuator. I would inspect all of the wiring loom around the door especially where it's opening and closing.
 

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Just did this repair yesterday on the front passenger door of my 06 XC90. Appreciate the write-up. I experienced one additional thing that was omitted; perhaps you didn't have the same experience. There was a metal bracket inside the door supporting the lock actuator, which was secured to the door via 2 small rivets at the bottom of the door. I had to drill them and then hammer the rivets out with a chisel. This had to be done in order to remove and replace the actuator. I don't have rivets or a rivet gun, so for now I just left it, but I will probably get at least one screw and bolt to re-secure the bracket to the door.

A few other tips:

1) Take note of the position of the outer door handle bar in the clip (picture #6 above), and be sure to snap it in the same position in the new actuator. At first I had snapped it in too far up and the door would not close. After moving it down, the door closes properly.

2) I had a lot of insulation material around the main connector to the actuator. I needed to remove it, to get a good pinch on the release tab. I reapplied the material along with electrical tape, before pushing it in to the new actuator. I'm assuming it's there to prevent moisture from getting to the connection.

3) Other connections in the door have to be connected for power to get to the actuator, so do that and test with your key-fob before putting the door panel back on.
 

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OK thanks I already removed locking mechanism once but didnt solved my problem.

WHen I close the doors with remote control driver door close - passenger NOT.
When I open again with remote and close again he close driver and passenger door.

First I was thinking its cable harness recall made in Guangzhou Delfi cable harness factory
but pins are ok and passing all signals I checked with instrument.

I think its small switch inside the locking mechanism who dont give any more good contacts.
See on photo what I mean this one. But Its impossible to open as its glued plastic in door locking
mechanism.

Did someone know whats going on?

When I lock the doors from inside the car on door panel lock allways all. Only from remote control
sometimes wont sometimes not. Thanks for reply.
 

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Hong Kong,
the black wire that goes through the A Pilar was a problem with our car. It is the lowest wire in the harness and it is the outside wire, meaning that it is closest to the outside of the door.

Everything looked good on our car (this was the 2006 XC90 2.5 we just sold), I replaced the actuator on the drivers side, and still had the problem. It was the wire wore out, but was still connected. It wasnt until i disconnected the harness at the door and got a peek at the wire that i saw the issue.
 

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Just did this repair yesterday on the front passenger door of my 06 XC90. Appreciate the write-up. I experienced one additional thing that was omitted; perhaps you didn't have the same experience. There was a metal bracket inside the door supporting the lock actuator, which was secured to the door via 2 small rivets at the bottom of the door. I had to drill them and then hammer the rivets out with a chisel. This had to be done in order to remove and replace the actuator. I don't have rivets or a rivet gun, so for now I just left it, but I will probably get at least one screw and bolt to re-secure the bracket to the door.

A few other tips:

1) Take note of the position of the outer door handle bar in the clip (picture #6 above), and be sure to snap it in the same position in the new actuator. At first I had snapped it in too far up and the door would not close. After moving it down, the door closes properly.

2) I had a lot of insulation material around the main connector to the actuator. I needed to remove it, to get a good pinch on the release tab. I reapplied the material along with electrical tape, before pushing it in to the new actuator. I'm assuming it's there to prevent moisture from getting to the connection.

3) Other connections in the door have to be connected for power to get to the actuator, so do that and test with your key-fob before putting the door panel back on.
Jabber is right. I just opened up my front passenger door panel to see how to access the lock actuator. It appears to be held down by 2 rivets. I'm guessing that the lock actuator is faulty. Whenever I lock the doors with the FOB or the door lock switches it does not lock and it makes a whirring sound. It makes the same sound when I push/pull the lock button.

The dealer wants $500+ to replace the the lock actuator. Grrrrr.

I have no problem doing a DIY but I need to figure out what exactly needs to be done. The pictures above are not really that helpful. Heres 2 pictures a I took. I already carefully peeled back that grey foam sheet to see whats inside there. The cheapest I have found for a new lock is $152.55 from https://www.volvopartswebstore.com/products/Lock--right/1129175/30784977.html Part No 30784977.

Anyone actually done this work?

ooops I don't think I can post pics yet since I don't have enough posts.
 

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Bad harness? What to do

Hey Tommm, what did you end up doing re: the faulty wire in the harness? Were you able to replace the entire harness? Clean up with contact cleaner? Something else? I think I have the same problem (actuator is likely fine). The passenger door lock prevents me from using my door panel button to unlock all my doors because I think it's reporting it's in some state that it's not - for example,

(1) I start driving and all doors automatically lock
(2) I stop and press unlock on my door
(3) pressing appears to function as 'lock' each time, no doors unlock
(4) At this point, the keyfob is the only way to get all doors to unlock
(5) I can toggle the physical lock peg a few times and then eventually the door panel button works.


Hong Kong,
the black wire that goes through the A Pilar was a problem with our car. It is the lowest wire in the harness and it is the outside wire, meaning that it is closest to the outside of the door.

Everything looked good on our car (this was the 2006 XC90 2.5 we just sold), I replaced the actuator on the drivers side, and still had the problem. It was the wire wore out, but was still connected. It wasnt until i disconnected the harness at the door and got a peek at the wire that i saw the issue.
 

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I did a butcher job getting the old connector out. There is a writeup on how to take the assembly apart. Once it is apart, take the "plug" the piece in the plastic assembly - the metal connector, and see if you can get it on the wire and reconnect everything. I think I started a thread, know I added to a thread that had a link to another Volvo site with good pictures. Our problem was with the driver's door. The black wire that went bad was the lowest, most outside wire so you wouldn't know it was bad. It hadn't broken off completely so the naked eye thought it was OK. when I disconnected the connector I felt the loose wire, and saw it broke where it connects to the metal plug in the housing. Hope this makes sense.
 

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thanks i made once just removrd thinking to fix as I have in Europe dead lock too but France company sealed very tight plastic of course and there is only 1 small micro switch what fail.

My passenger door work like this: with door buttons all works perfect. When i use remote control to lock my car all doors lock except passenger...i need to Open again and Close again than also lass. door lock. Makes me slighty mad but first thinks is this to change.

Trust me its totaly common problem as many of my friends and here complain on this. Another crap reliability part. ;)

I tried a long to remove out mechanism than i give up and bend a little window channel as its fixed woth rivets dont want to drill it. Bend back and is ok.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
 
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