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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Long story short, local tire jockeys ruined one of the wheel studs on B0XY. Been putting off replacement for about 8k miles now, figure I should probably go ahead and do something about it since it's supposed to be nice this weekend and I have some time to wrench.

How much of a pain is this going to be? I haven't even had the tire off lately to check things out, so any insight is appreciated. What parts do I need from the dealer besides a wheel stud and lug nut?
 

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Not too much a PIA. remove wheel, 10 mm bolt that holds rotor to spindle. Remove caliper. If you have a compreser and impact hammer and punch die, that makes short work of this job. Nock out old stud with that or a hammer.

To install, get new stud slide in hole get a bunch of washers and use the lug nut and in with an impact gun. ( 1/2 ) It should take about 40 mins with teardown and re-assy.

The bolts on the front caliper are 17 mm and the rear are 15 mm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Very cool - much thanks for the quick response!
 

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Re: (DVolvoguy777)

I think the parking brake hardware will get in the way. It's not hard to remove. You can pull off one of the springs and leave the other connected with the bar between the shoes. Needle nose vise grip pliers work pretty well to reinstall the spring. I've also heard of using a flat blade screw driver, stuck through the access hole in the hub for leverage, to pry the spring into place. I figure if you do have trouble getting the spring back on, you'll be looking for any ideas...they can be a real hassle sometimes. Also, don't forget to release the parking brake and chock a wheel. More than once I've wondered why the rear rotor wouldn't come off...parking brake engaged every time.

If the stud is shot, just hammer away. On a good stud, screw on a lugnut most of the way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I didn't even think about the parking brake assy being in there (never had to do rear rotors on the old ones) - thanks for the heads-up.

Glad it's just one wompted stud - Volvo wants almost ten bucks for this thing.
 

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Re: (Splat)

I got suckered for $15 EACH for a stud + nut "kit" at an indy shop that replaced two for me years ago. Now I buy them for $1.50 ea. from FCP Groton, replace them myself, and use free junkyard 240 Turbo lugnuts. It's nice to know about how to do this stuff cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Re: (towerymt)

Quote, originally posted by towerymt »
I got suckered for $15 EACH for a stud + nut "kit" at an indy shop that replaced two for me years ago. Now I buy them for $1.50 ea. from FCP Groton, replace them myself, and use free junkyard 240 Turbo lugnuts. It's nice to know about how to do this stuff cheap.

I'll remember that, being that I stripped the new stud and nut when trying to install it today


Cost was $12 and change for a stud ant nut from the dealership.

The good news is that I didn't have to mess with the parking brake stuff at all. I just hammered the old stud out and turned the hub until I could wiggle the stud out. If you turn the hub so the removed stud is at about the 2 o'clock to 3 o'clock position, you have enough room to work the old one out and get the new one in.

Mental note - use BIG washers. I screwed up and got ones that fit over the threads, but not the body of the new wheel stud. That + impact wrench is what I think screwed up the threads.

Other than that, things were pretty straightforward. Remove caliper, remove rotor, beat out stud, impact new one in, replace everything else. Guess I'll try again in a few weeks.

*Edit - rear ATE caliper bolts were either 17mm or 18mm, for some reason I don't have a 17mm wrench, but the 18 worked without slipping.
 

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Splat:

Sorry bout the shoddy advice on using an impact. I should have said to bump the trigger and put your finger on the back side of the stud. You can feel it pull the stud through with your finger till it stops. Either that when it gets close to grab a 3/4 in box wrench and snugg it up. My apology.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Re: (DVolvoguy777)

Quote, originally posted by DVolvoguy777 »
Splat:

Sorry bout the shoddy advice on using an impact. I should have said to bump the trigger and put your finger on the back side of the stud. You can feel it pull the stud through with your finger till it stops. Either that when it gets close to grab a 3/4 in box wrench and snugg it up. My apology.

That's the thing - I never got the stud fully seated. Maybe it was bottoming out in the socket? That would account for ruining the threads on the end of the stud. Guess I need a deep well.
 

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Deep well with a bunch of washers larger than the diameter of the studs shank. It will snug with a socket and ratchet. I have always used the impact because it was fast. If you already installed the new stud you can also seat it by putting the wheel back on and cinching it down, back off cinch down again. Till it stops or the threads are the same protrusion as the others. That way you can insure the threads will be good as the end result.
 
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