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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The XC90 has been getting a little tail-happy on the freeway in a crosswind, and I figure it's time to replace the rear suspension bushings. (Front bushings were replaced this spring and vehicle was aligned). Wondering if anybody has experience doing this job, and if there are really any special tools needed for this-or-that bushing? Anybody been there and done that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I did the stay bushings earlier (with much help from that thread - thanks). Now I'm looking at doing the other rubber bits back there....near as I can tell there are six involved with the suspension (on each side), unless I need to do subframe bushings as well. Their names in VIDA are not real specific, but they're the ones circled in red here:


Associated part numbers are:
#18: 31277899
#34: 31277952 is the # for the bushings for this link, but the link itself (31277896) isn't much more expensive, so if it comes with bushings pre-installed I might just replace the whole link.
#40: 30748890
#41: 8672223
#42: 8672222
#43: 8672221
 

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I now what you mean now about the front bushings, I'm not reading posts very well in the last day or so, I was thinking you just wanted to do the rear trailing arm.

For the rest, I've never seen anyone post in one place. Even the trailing arm bushing DIY started out as a Russian translation, it was that rare in the public space.

I could do some photos maybe of a bushing or two on mine, I'm an active driver with a Sport suspension at 125k so you can compare and see if anything is worth he effort. I'll do another post when I get a link up with the photos.

In the meantime, if you (or anyone) see(s) a thread in one spot for these bushings on a XC90 or XC70 (-09 S60, -07 S80 AWD as well?), please re-post.

Symptom is regular drift on crosswind or a hop initiated drift by crosswind or both? And vehicle handles solidly around freeway curves and does not require much correction? Got a suspension history on this vehicle to share? I can't remember if you've done any work and or when for struts and shocks. This vehicle have nivomats? I'm guessing you already know but if not, someone can show you where to find out.

Think I'm more curious about the symptom. This was the old "open" bushing that got replaced with a solid Ford bushing, right? Has the rear issue been with you in one form or another since before these were installed or have you noticed them since?

Apologies for all the questions.
 

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I just planned to do this to change all possible bushings.
24 of them.
Volvo shop in Slovenia told me that they dont do this work but specialized company ect.
And that complete rear bridge including all bushings on it cost 988 Euro and separately
24 bushings and work they ask for 800 euro.

I think I will take other way and change complete NEW bridge including new struts after 13 years
no matter that they are still in good conditions passed 2 months ago vibration shaking testing.
Removing bridge and change only few of bushings soon or later will request others.

When I made this in front in 2014 in UK I changed all front bushings including sub frame
and engine supports.

If you are looking for Poly here is link:
https://siberianbushing.com/catalog/VOLVO/EUROPE/XC90/XC90/-

SB Part ID Position Description Quantity on car Price per pcs USD Price per quantity USD
24-01-3576 front Polyurethane bushing sway bar front suspension, I.D.=23,5 mm 2 12.05 24.1
24-06-2483 front Polyurethane bushing front suspension, low arm, rear 2 17.41 34.82
0
24-06-2600 rear Polyurethane bushing rear suspension, sub frame, mount to low control arm (sub spring) 2 18.48 36.96
24-06-2772 rear Polyurethane bushing rear suspension, sub frame, front, mount to body 2 24.91 49.82
24-06-2484 rear Polyurethane bushing rear suspension, beam, mount to trailing arm 2 18.62 37.24
24-06-2601 rear Polyurethane bushing rear suspension, sub frame, rear, mount to body 2 22.77 45.54
24-06-2687 rear Polyurethane bushing rear suspension, hub and sub frame, mount to low rear control arm 4 15 60
24-06-2686 rear Polyurethane bushing rear suspension, hub, mount to low control arm 2 20.09 40.18
24-06-2417 rear Polyurethane bushing rear suspension, hub 2 15.13 30.26
24-01-3576 rear Polyurethane bushing sway bar front suspension, I.D.=23,5 mm 2 12.05 24.1
383.02


View attachment 53567 View attachment 53569

Also complete parts you can choose here:
https://www.myvolvoparts.com/Genuine-Volvo-Rear-Sub-Frame-and-Bushings-for-XC90-2003-2014_p_2000.html
 

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Maybe this is somewhat related. I noticed it since we bought the car new that if I sight from the outside of the rear tires to the front tires there is about one inch of tow in, providing the rear track width is the same as the front track width. This always seemed excessive to me and the rear tire wear seems just as short lived as the front. I see that the eccentric adjusters in the back for toe in adjustment are exactly in the mid position. I believe they come out of the factory that way and that they probably never do alignments. Maybe we could get better tire life with a more neutral toe- in?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
......Symptom is regular drift on crosswind or a hop initiated drift by crosswind or both? And vehicle handles solidly around freeway curves and does not require much correction? Got a suspension history on this vehicle to share? I can't remember if you've done any work and or when for struts and shocks. This vehicle have nivomats? I'm guessing you already know but if not, someone can show you where to find out.

Think I'm more curious about the symptom. This was the old "open" bushing that got replaced with a solid Ford bushing, right? Has the rear issue been with you in one form or another since before these were installed or have you noticed them since?

Apologies for all the questions.
i appreciate all the questions; they're good ones. The rear shocks (Nivomats, which I believe were standard on the V8) are less than two years old (as are the fronts). All front suspension rubber was replaced this past spring; rear bushings were on the car when I acquired it 127k miles ago, so it's safe to say they're overdue.

Vehicle tracks nicely on high-speed curves, and at +/- 90MPH on the straights in quiet air. But when there's a good crosswind, or when I'm passing a semi, it feels a little loose in the tail, requiring (or just feeling like it requires) a little steering pressure one way or the other to keep it straight. Just an annoyance at this point (for me, anyway...it freaks my wife right out, though). This has just cropped up this summer, so it's a new thing. And I'm clueless about the "open vs. solid Ford bushing issue, so if you can link me to an article or a thread on that, I'd appreciate it. I don't know for sure that the bushings are the problem, but they seem like the obvious suspect.

Honestly, having just spent some time poking around VIDA for removal/replacement instructions, I'm having doubts about tackling this project. The names for the various parts in the parts catalog are kinda vague (just "bushing" or "bearing bushing" for the most part), and the replacement instructions use some odd names too (I always thought a "tie rod" was part of a steering system, but apparently there's one or two on the back end as well). Plus there are some specialized tools involved; for pressing the bushings, I figure I could probably kludge something together like in the trailing arm bushing thread you linked to, but there's some other esoteric stuff in play (like a tensioner for holding the control arm in its fully-loaded position.....wonder if I could just lift the hub with a floor jack instead?). I think I'll have to put the car on jacks and get underneath with my laptop just to be sure which parts are being discussed in VIDA and visualize the various jobs. I'm beginning to understand why there are no threads or writeups on the subject...might be time to visit the mechanic, have a chat, and get some numbers, because this is looking like a much trickier project than the front-end bushings & balljoints were.
 

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Any chance you can get the alphanumeric character set from the lower left corner of the black label on the back of the passenger side B-pillar? And if you've done strut/shock replacement, could you please post PNs (and manufacturer if aftermarket) for what was used?

Bushing being open/closed refers to the older Volvo part marked bushing which has open spaces on either side of the center pin rubber versus the newer Ford part marked bushing which is solid rubber. This can affect the "feel" of the rear end (more sensitive), but not to the degree you describe.

Interesting post by HongKong, makes perfrect sense to pull the rear subframe off and re-bush it, then sell as a complete unit. Rear subframe is unique to XC90, although there appear to be 3 PNs based on chassis breaks at 392245 and 664555.

Post about eccentric nut/washer on the back of the rear stay, this is indeed for adjusting toe and 1000% sure there was an initial adjustment before this vehicle left the Torslanda factory. In 14 years of ownership, I have never had an issue with excessive tire wear although I carry lifetime alignment on both vehicles and get them aligned yearly at a minimum. See https://www.davebarton.com/pdf/RTJ 19674-2010.pdf for specs. I know there was a very slight change a couple years after I bought my '05 (inn '05), and it came up in a discussion. If PAX5 surfaces he can add to this, think he authored or participated in a discussion about this very issue some years ago.

*Just to get a perspective, what was the weight load in the vehicle and how was it distributed (front-back only) when the crosswind scenario occured??
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Any chance you can get the alphanumeric character set from the lower left corner of the black label on the back of the passenger side B-pillar? And if you've done strut/shock replacement, could you please post PNs (and manufacturer if aftermarket) for what was used?

...............

*Just to get a perspective, what was the weight load in the vehicle and how was it distributed (front-back only) when the crosswind scenario occured??
Fronts were Bilstein 22170729 with Uro seats 30683637PRM and Uro bushings 8634457. Rears were Volvo 30683451. No label anywhere on passenger side b-pillar....what number are you looking for? Could it be repeated somewhere else?

Issue occurs with only me in an otherwise empty car, but now that you mention it, I think it's more pronounced when I have the whole family (2 adults + 2 kids) plus a bunch of luggage and stuff in the back.
 

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I have not had good experiences with Uro parts. Not those parts specifically, but I think it was maybe some rubber hosing for the PCV system on a 2.5T. Not impressed.
 

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Sorry, forgot it's an '05- http://new.volvocars.com/ownersdocs/2005/2005_xc90/05xc90_10.htm

Driver side fender under the hood, aluminum embossed label, info is 12 character string on the lower right side. If you could post the 12 digits in their entirety, it'll help with seeing how the vehicle was original configured.

Mid right on the label is your paint code (color-shade) and right above it is your interior code (C-something), rest is the VIN and maybe emissions code and some other manufacturing information.
 

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Uro seats didn't last long on my car. But then, blue box didn't either.

Glad to hear my bushing thread helped! I was also planning on replacing some bushings in the rear but never did. This thread may be a good starting point. As far as pressing them in and out, you should be able to get away with a complete bearing press kit. Alternatively, bring the whole subframe to a shop and let them wrangle with them. I'd also suggest replacing the subframe bushings as well in addition to what you have circled.

Removing the knuckle alone will give you access to quite a few of them. The only thing that may be less than straightforward is figuring out how to remove/disconnect the rear brake components (maybe just disconnect the parking brake cable and brake lines?).
 

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Gotta be honest, don't think the rear bushings are your cross wind problem.

While I'm waiting on your suspension codes, try a test for me please- Lift one front wheel up safely and leave the other side on the ground. Give the up wheel some left/right and top/bottom wiggle, tell me if anything is loose and/or knocking and how much play you have.

And the Bilstein struts, when you installed them did you use the original bumpstop and bellows?
 

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I get price from Volvo Original for new rear sub frame together with
all already installed factory bushings on it for 988 euro.

This is better than removing all sub frame purchasing all bushings separately
and re bushing work ect ect. Simple swap.
 

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I think ggleavit is on to something because it doesn't sound like rear bushings. It is a good idea to double-check the front bushings.

Do you happen to have the alignment printout? Depending on the specs, it can definitely make the XC90 more "lively" in straight-line stability, albeit while improving handling on curves and turns.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Sorry to let this slide for a few days...rough weekend. Anyhow, suspension code is 33AB65426952. With one front wheel up (lifted from the knuckle, so the suspension is still under load if that matters) I have NO vertical play (grabbing at top and bottom and trying to move it). Horizontally, with some effort I can move it a tiny little bit around the steering axis...when I do this, the opposite wheel (on the ground) also wiggles in lockstep; can't find any play at all in the rod ends or rack doing this test.

I'm sure I didn't replace the bump stops. Bellows, I think I did, but it was two years ago so this could be wrong. Visually, they look OK - no rips or tears, not riding up.

gg & chitown, what are your guys' suspicions about the front end? Bushings and ball joints were redone early this spring, with alignment afterward. Current symptom didn't show up until a few months later.

I'm leaving today on a road trip of a few hundred miles....any suggestions for tests I should try on the road or behaviors to watch for that might help diagnose this?
 

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I didn't want to post in between but I was curious as to how much steering slop you had up front.

My suspicion is the combination of your aftermarket front struts and the OE nivos, with the re-use of the "5" bumpstop as a possible contributor.

On your upcoming trip, try to take the vehicle to speed and see if it behaves more oddly when you put your foot down versus at speed versus foot off gas and coasting. Another test I think you might try is to get the vehicle up to freeway speeds and punch it, see if the front end comes up followed by any floaty sorta feeling that subsides if you take your foot off the pedal.

Try a few variations on the theme and see if you can get some more detail on the instability.

Your suspension code as expanded below-
33- Front Spring
AB- Front Strut
6- Front Sway Bar
54- Rear Spring
26- Rear Shock
9- Rear Sway Bar
5- Front BumpStop (helper spring)
2- Rear BumpStop (helper spring)
 

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Maybe this is somewhat related. I noticed it since we bought the car new that if I sight from the outside of the rear tires to the front tires there is about one inch of tow in, providing the rear track width is the same as the front track width. This always seemed excessive to me and the rear tire wear seems just as short lived as the front. I see that the eccentric adjusters in the back for toe in adjustment are exactly in the mid position. I believe they come out of the factory that way and that they probably never do alignments. Maybe we could get better tire life with a more neutral toe- in?
The toe-in makes the rear more stable for straight line and highway. The trade-off is the front will understeer, or push forward on turns instead of following the turns. I posted about rear toe in my front-end rebuild thread. I would not go zero toe on this long wheelbase heavy vehicle. For a more sporty drive, after the front suspension rebuild has been done, you can reduce overall toe-in, but I do not recommend setting rear toe to zero/neutral.

I didn't want to post in between but I was curious as to how much steering slop you had up front.

My suspicion is the combination of your aftermarket front struts and the OE nivos, with the re-use of the "5" bumpstop as a possible contributor.
The bumpstop would not contribute to the highway wandering. Bumpstop is exactly as it sounds, to soften the impact on full compression. I have driven in a 7-seater with Nivomat equipped with cheaper quick-struts assemblies upfront and an unknown brand for control arms. It wandered as well as it didn't self-center well. So, if there was a crosswind and you corrected the vehicle with steering, the XC90 would then follow the line of the correction, then back and forth (it took effort to go back to heading straight). So, I got under the XC90, had spare rubber from non-used coolant hoses from different cars, cut the hoses, and stuffed some rubber in the control arm bushing voids. Lo and behold, the XC90 felt like it should have where it was more stable in the highway and it was easier to keep the vehicle going in the direction you wanted it to.

Long story short, ggleavitt is probably right to suspect front suspension. If you have Uro control arm bushings, then it is sounding more like that is the real culprit and the rubber has softened or cracked in a short time. You could always try to stuff something in the bushing cut-outs as I did to an XC90 to get the proper diagnosis or at the very least try to eliminate the control arm bushings as the real issue.

In addition: Do you know the alignment specs that was set at the shop? Did you change tires at all?
 
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