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Hello everyone-<p><br>OK, I have decided to replace/clean my flame trap. (Probably next weekend) From what I have read on the net, it seems that the trap is one of the most under maintained parts on a B230F. It can lead to oil leaks and other stuff..... Anyway, thanks to George for giving me the heads up on this job. Once I get mine done, I may do the other two cars at home.<p>Before I begin though, I have a few questions: <p>First: I have an '86, so the trap is under the air intake manifold. Should I take the manifold off to work and then replace its gasket? Is there any prepping of the metal surfaces before I apply a new gasket?<p>Second: Should I clean or replace the trap? I'm not too cheap, but if it won't make a bit of difference, why bother?<p>Third: Is there anything that I should look for while I am working on the trap? If I am going to tear the manifold off, is there any other quick things I may be able to replace?<p><br>Thanks<p>Chris<br>
 

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Re: Replacing My Flame Trap... (MrGismo)

If you have reliable and dependable alternative transportation then remove the manifold.<p>The best long-term fix is to install a flame trap relocation kit and while there clean the flame collection (breather) box bolted to the block near the flame trap (before the relo). DO NOT pull the tube from the oil pan!<p>While the intake system is apart clean the throttle body, install a K&N permanent air filter, service the fresh air box (air flap and thermo) and check all electrical connections/grounds and vacuum lines/junctions.<p>Be absolutely sure of NO AIR LEAKS in the intake system anywhere including that flexible accordion-fold duct connecting the mass air meter to the throttle body.<p>Here.<p><A HREF="http://www.ipdusa.com/ProductsCat.aspx?CategoryID=1580&NodeID=5032&RootID=629" TARGET="_blank">http://www.ipdusa.com/Products...D=629</A><p><A HREF="http://www.ipdusa.com/images/Categories/RearWheelDrive/flame%20trap%20draw%20copy.gif" TARGET="_blank">http://www.ipdusa.com/images/C...y.gif</A><p><A HREF="http://www.ipdusa.com/ProductsCat.aspx?CategoryID=503&NodeID=660&RootID=629" TARGET="_blank">http://www.ipdusa.com/Products...D=629</A><p><A HREF="http://www.ipdusa.com/ProductsCat.aspx?CategoryID=71&NodeID=890&RootID=629" TARGET="_blank">http://www.ipdusa.com/Products...D=629</A><p><A HREF="http://www.ipdusa.com/ProductsCat.aspx?CategoryID=511&NodeID=767&RootID=629" TARGET="_blank">http://www.ipdusa.com/Products...D=629</A><p><br>George Dill<p>
 

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removing the entire manifold is hardly necessary.<p>Just pulling the throttle body and distributor cap gives plenty of access. I replaced the entire system that way, including the oilbox.
 

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I can't say I've ever removed the manifold to service one of those critters...... I'm reasonably sure flat rate on the service is less than 0.5<p>Be glad to stand corrected if I am wrong<p>without a doubt the catch can or breather box is a great idea...... my 79 is in dire need of one although it's rings and guides are doing an excellent job<p>I just fabbed up a stainless one for a Buell whose PCV breather system was opened up and no longer pukes oil into the air filter or intake tract<p>lined the bottom of it with stainless steel wool and it's easily serviced
 

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Re: Replacing My Flame Trap... (MrGismo)

standard procedure to pass tech at the race track...... vintage or comtemporary racing<p>epa unfriendly<p>I don't mind a healthy EGR as the process does reduce detonation tendencies<p>however....... oil back into the intake yeilds the opposite results
 
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