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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay guys,
Finally got time and patience to do the strut repair and have been able to impact wench the crap out of everything so far except for front sway bar end link where it attaches to the strut housing. It has a nut on it but it also has the torx head. I don't know if I'm turning them the right way. Does the torx head remove or do I just impact the nut off?

Thanks guys.....

Any and all help appreciated.
Happy 4th to all. I plan on drinking a 6pak after this is done.
 

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Okay guys,
Finally got time and patience to do the strut repair and have been able to impact wench the crap out of everything so far except for front sway bar end link where it attaches to the strut housing. It has a nut on it but it also has the torx head. I don't know if I'm turning them the right way. Does the torx head remove or do I just impact the nut off?

Thanks guys.....

Any and all help appreciated.
Happy 4th to all. I plan on drinking a 6pak after this is done.
In most cases the Endlink should impact off. In cases where the bushing is shot and loose from the assembly you will need to use a wrench and torque combo which should come off fairly easy. I replace mine fairly frequently, about once a year, and I use Meyle HD's and they are wonderful. With a frequency like mine the majority of the time I simply impact them with the wheels still on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
In most cases the Endlink should impact off. In cases where the bushing is shot and loose from the assembly you will need to use a wrench and torque combo which should come off fairly easy. I replace mine fairly frequently, about once a year, and I use Meyle HD's and they are wonderful. With a frequency like mine the majority of the time I simply impact them with the wheels still on.
So, I wanted be trying to turn the torx head bolt. Just the nut. I'm guessing the torx head part is connected directly to the end link and doesn't turn? Just making sure I'm not going to jack this up. Spending $1000.00 on struts and mounts has already been painful (better than Volvo $2k est)
Thanks for your help.
 

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So, I wanted be trying to turn the torx head bolt. Just the nut. I'm guessing the torx head part is connected directly to the end link and doesn't turn? Just making sure I'm not going to jack this up. Spending $1000.00 on struts and mounts has already been painful (better than Volvo $2k est)
Thanks for your help.
The Torx head will rotate freely if the bushings are shot making it impossible to remove the nut. The nut is all that is needed for removal the Torx is simply only for holding the shaft still while you break free the nut.
 

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Use two tools. Torx head in ratchet. Wrench on nut. Rotate them opposite directions.
 

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The Torx head will rotate freely if the bushings are shot making it impossible to remove the nut. The nut is all that is needed for removal the Torx is simply only for holding the shaft still while you break free the nut.
words to live by right there :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the help. My impact wrench is not getting it done. Guess I will have to heat it with butane torch and then see. I've soaked it for the past 24 hours with PB but she is still being a stubborn little hooker. Any quick suggestions for breaking it free?
 

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Thanks for the help. My impact wrench is not getting it done. Guess I will have to heat it with butane torch and then see. I've soaked it for the past 24 hours with PB but she is still being a stubborn little hooker. Any quick suggestions for breaking it free?
If soaking it didn't help heat would be the next step be careful tho don't wanna catch anything on fire, if that didn't work the next step would be to drill the damn thing out :D
 

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If all else fails, take pry bar, place in between endlink mount on strut and endlink and pop the endlink ball joint apart. The nut and torx head will remain on the old strut along with the ball end of the endlink. Remove the rest of the endlink from the swaybar and replace with new. Last resort.
 

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Last time I changed my front end links I managed to destroy the torx so I couldnt hold it when turning the nut. But the angle grinder did the work of removing it pretty well. Just cut the bolt in peaces and give it some love with the hammer and it will all come loose. Watch out for grinding at the shock (if you aint going to replace it)! :D
 

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If all else fails, take pry bar, place in between endlink mount on strut and endlink and pop the endlink ball joint apart. The nut and torx head will remain on the old strut along with the ball end of the endlink. Remove the rest of the endlink from the swaybar and replace with new. Last resort.
Just cut the bitch off.

That, or grab the bushing with a vice and hold that straight while you impact it.
 

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Torch should have cured it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Haven't had the chance to get a torch. The ball and chain went to the lake and took my other car so she could put the top down and kindly forgot to leave her car keys with me. Aww married life. Me working on a car and her on a boat. Good times. Next weekend, I think I will excuse myself for a little r&r and have her clean the house. :)
I went ahead and ordered some end links from rock auto. Chances are, they are/will be shot anyway. Probably try the torch but most likely just going to grind them out.
 

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I just installed Meyle HD's ... very nice. If you can't get the nuts off just take a grinder, or even dremel, and split the nut. I used a torx on a 3/8" ratchet, and then a racheting wrench for the nuts. But, if that doesn't work easily, don't hesitate to break out the dremel. You can spend a lot of time messing w/ PB blaster only to round those nuts. w/ dremel, make one slice down the center of the nut to split it in 2 ... . also, that sway bar is probably putting a lot of pressure on the stabilizer link ball joints, might want to cut the stabilizer link first, so there is no pressure on the ball joints while you are trying to get the nuts off. here... sawzall is your friend, and I recommend LENNOX GOLD medium metal blades...they are amazing.
 

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oh, and THE Meyle HD's are quite a bit cheaper than IPD's HDs... and to my eye they look quite similar, though I don't know if their ball joint tech is different
 

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If your really having that hard of a time with your sway bar links. Maybe you should just take it to the garage. Working on cars isn't for everybody.
 

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I was having some issues with the the ipd HD link nylock end nuts backing off and so put some very heavy duty nuts on with locking collars.

However it took a hell of a lot of force to put them on due to the collar squeezing the stud.

Trying to hold the stud in place with an allen key was problematic too - 5.5mm was too big, 5mm too small... I tried a few US unit keys too, but they didn't fit snugly either.

I did get it eventually but it caused some damage to the inside of the couterhold socket of th stud and I'm concerned when I take it off again it would get worse or start stripping.

Any idea what the "correct" size for the allen key should be for the ipd end links?
 
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