It's a Ford design... when I went looking for videos on the process online, I found no S60 videos, but many, many Ford Mondeo Mk.4 videos, and the parts are identical.It's a complete pain in the ass in these cars. Volvos are the only cars I've worked on where the struts just don't come in and out when they are unbolted. I say that because even my old 240 was that way. It's probably some type of safety thing to keep them attached to the car in an accident.
When I did my lowering springs I ended up having to unbolt the control arm from the car, however, it is then a bitch to get those back in too.
You're trying to force the knub in and off the LCA without removing the axle off the hub, correct? Any reason you don't want to remove it from the hub? It comes right off and would probably make your life a lot easier. I understand being lulled into doing it in a simple in and out, but I think I had less problems doing it the more involved way (tie rod and axle pull off).Took a week off to go bird hunting in SD. Came back and still struggling. I got the LCA leverage bit down but I'm literally .5-.75 inches away from getting the LCA ball joint stud in the steering knuckle. I've nailed it down to two culprits that I can think of.
1 - the new strut bearing isn't aligned correctly. I bought the new version and it's not quite the same. The little channel is in the back but it only has one "nubbin" - the original has two, facing front and back. Looking at the other new one I have the nub should probably point backwards to align with the channel and the fin that slides into the knuckle channel. I originally had it this way but forgot the top rubber to spring isolator and in haste must have bumped it askew (facing forward) in my haste to fix that.
2 - the axle (I'm FWD T5-E) moves in and out of the transmission a bit but as is I can't push it inboard any further to get me that extra fraction of an inch. I cannot imagine it somehow just slipped out of the trans but... with how crappy this been anything seems possible.
More to come.
Yep, I just tapped the strut in until the plate with the "nub" sat flush against the knuckle (of course, this was done with the knuckle out of the car though).Maybe someone else can comment on the Axel movement, but as for the "nub" on the strut, it needs to slide into the slot on the knuckle. For mine, the bottom of the strut sits almost flush with the bottom on the knuckle's hole.
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