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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was trying to be pretty careful while removing my old control arms, as I know the VC cages can separate. I have both arms out, and noticed both axles can slide in and out with little force. Turning the axles by hand seems to show the joints still connected, as they won't spin while in 1st. Is there any way to check for disengagement without removing the boot and the wretched oetiker clamps?

04 V70R
 

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Do they reach a stopping point? The outer joint won't come out on its own, it has a circlip. Inner is a little more fragile.
 

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They're supposed to slide in and out, that's how it compensates for the length vs angle change as you travel through the suspension. You're fine. If the CV boots aren't stretched out like they are way over-pulled, there is nothing wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks - the boots look normal, and the joints feel normal. I'll make sure I don't put too much pulling force on them while I put everything back together.

Trying to figure out the best tool to install new ball joints without damaging the bearing or flanges.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OK - ball joints in with the correct tool.

Now I can't get the bloody control arms in place. Disconnected the sway bar links and it didn't help much.

Do I need to disconnect the strut? What is the correct order of operations here? My old bushings were so shot that removal was a piece of cake.
 

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use a hammer to hammer in the rear part of the control arm in. I also removed the axle bolt to give me more room while working down there
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
No risk of damaging the aluminum part doing that? The angle is pretty off on that rear bushing.
 

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Like stated above, remove the axle bolt and use a deep socket to tap the axle free of the hub so you can push the whole knuckle/assy out of the way. Once the control arm's anchored to the subframe, you can use a prybar, or whatever makes sense given your set-up to pull the arm down and over the spindle of the BJ.
 
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