Pulled the entire engine/trans out and this is what I'm currently doing.
- HG/valve stem seals
- Oil pan seals
- All timing belt/water pump/associated gaskets
- Replace lifters when needed
- Na cams
- NA Tb
- 960 maf
- snabb 3" intake pipe and fitting to larger maf
- 18t turbo with r mani and angled flange
- All silicone intake, coolant, heater hoses, turbo hoses
- Replace mounts as needed
- Oil cooler lines look to be in good shape and possibly replaced previously
- overflow tank
- rms
- snabb trans bushings
- manual throttle cable
- r clutch
-SMF
- master and slave in newer condition
Anything else you guys think of that I should do while I'm in there?
When I start my car in the morning, there's always a little smoke that comes out which I'm attributing to some of the oil leaking past the valve seals overnight and getting into the combustion chamber. So when I start it in the morning, that oil burns off and causes the initial smoke.
Anyway to the OP, it looks like you have all things covered.
When I start my car in the morning, there's always a little smoke that comes out which I'm attributing to some of the oil leaking past the valve seals overnight and getting into the combustion chamber. So when I start it in the morning, that oil burns off and causes the initial smoke.
Anyway to the OP, it looks like you have all things covered.
I thought about it, but I drive like a grandpa as it is and mission creep as you like to say is the reason why I'd do it just because everything is out.
But I'd rather put the money into these that I just bought...
Thought about shimming but talked with Jesse and decided didn't need to.
A part of the decision making is also what can we reasonably accomplish in the time we have. My friend is the one doing a majority of the work and I'm renting some shop space from a shop I have a relationship with. At some point due to time and resources, I just had to draw the line.
Shims don't fix the problem anyway. Failure is in tension.....which is parallel with the shims. There are more shimmed blocks out there that have failed than we see on here.
Did some more work today. It's stop and go because we can only work on weekends and my friends schedule is open every other week.
Put valve cover on with NA cams. Had a question re timing so messaged Aaron at vast.
He said 6 degress retarded on intake and 7 degrees advanced on the exhaust to start and then modify from there based on tuning data.
Also finished putting in the pedal box, master and slave cylinder and the center console. Interior is complete now.
Finished putting on the 18t turbo with angled flange housing. Turbo has new cbv and was recently rebuilt. Also installed the Do88 turbo complement hoses.
Forgot to order new flywheel bolts so the trans will have to wait.
Tomorrow we should be installing a Do88 radiator, intercooler and rip kit.
Also picked up manual axels and will be replacing all 4 boots with oem.
Got the wiring harness done. Went with a Dave Barton harness for convenience.
Got the pedals and center console completed. Ran into one problem with the brake sensor connector. The connector is different than the hole on the pedal box. It looks like I have an older version pedal box built for the sensor with 2 wires. My car has the 4 wire sensor. Going to need to figure that out.
Also got the radiator and intercooler out. Getting ready to put the Do88 rad and rip kit in.
Also popped in a new upper poly torque mount. The triangle one above the engine.
Picked up a parts car that had lots of little goodies that I will be using.
Along with the do88 rad and rip, going to put on the c70 chassis u brace on the bottom. Already have c70 subframe with metal bushings, ipd sways, sachs with ipd springs, and STB.
Also had some parts that I already have that I can put on the wagon (ipd sways, NA intake and 960 TB and 960 MAF).
Its the wife's car and is going to be pretty beastly also as it already has a 19t and r mani.
Finally, we are in Northern CA and have been having a lot of fires with lots of ash. Gave the car a quick bath and tucked her in for the next week or so.
Received my baseline tune from Aaron this week so ready to go and get her complete.
Got the trans bolted up and was able to drop the engine in.
Have a pair of manual axles that we tried replacing the boots on but the manual axle boots we got didn't fit. Going to sit if a different part number boot will fit.
Still need to put the rad/intercooler in along with NA intake and TB.
We were replacing all 4 boots. We got 2 different oem boot kits. There was still a 3rd size that was different. Not sure if one of the axles has been replaced in the past resulting in a different size boot.
Got the do88 rad and intercooler installed. That stack is thicc and a royal pita to get in. Still have to finish up the RIP kit install.
Also threw on a beat up angled flange dp for the time being until new exhaust arrives. Ended up going with an obx full exhaust due to time constraints and convenience. Would have preferred the simons but would have still needed a dp and I was able to get this bnib kit for under 600 shipped to my door from a vs fb seller. The previous exhaust was a poorly done custom exhaust with an old tme muffler. Sounded good but many restrictions.
Ipd billet transmission mount.
Put the NA intake manifold, and NA TB on. The intake was slightly ported to match the head. Do88 IAC hose.
New manual throttle cable installed. No kick down switch baby.
Do88 heater core hoses. Nice peace of mind that they won't leak.
All Do88 coolant hoses.
Snabb pipe.
Did pvc mod with thicker hose that isn't plastic.
Put 5mm spacers up front and 15mm spacers in the rear.
Need to finish the rip kit install and hoses. Put misc parts back on. Dw200 fuel pump. Put fluids in and shell be ready to fire up.
I'm using a setup of a modified (shortened) P2 D088 intake pipe and a Simota CCI. Its currently off prepping for paint but I can throw it on to take a photo if it will help. I cant verify it will work with a battery in place.
Ok thanks. I'll have to look through your build thread and and see if I can find it.
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