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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone know how much brake fluid is needed to completely flush the system? I'm putting ATE fluid in. Local mechanic said I may need more than the 1 Litre can of the stuff.<p>
 

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Re: Replacing Brake Fluid (jazee)

I'ts been a while since I've done this on an 04 S60R...but when installing the Evolve SS brake lines we replaced the OEM stuff with ATE Super Blue. We used a full can and a little extra to top off. It's not too expensive so I'd just get two cans (1-L) and call it a day.<p>Don't forget to do your clutch if you have the 6MT.<p>Cheers,<br>Prospero
 

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Re: Replacing Brake Fluid (Prospero)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Prospero</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'ts been a while since I've done this on an 04 S60R...but when installing the Evolve SS brake lines we replaced the OEM stuff with ATE Super Blue. We used a full can and a little extra to top off. It's not too expensive so I'd just get two cans (1-L) and call it a day.<p>Don't forget to do your clutch if you have the 6MT.<p>Cheers,<br>Prospero</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Amazon is having a half off sale on the Super ATE Blue. FYI <A HREF="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007SN6F6/qid=1152120885/sr=8-3/ref=sr_1_3/104-5093464-7232723?%5Fencoding=UTF8&v=glance&n=15684181" TARGET="_blank">http://www.amazon.com/gp/produ...84181</A>
 

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Re: (jazee)

Since it's been a while...I can not recall if there was a separate reservoir for the clutch on the manual trans model or not. I'm sure that someone here will chime on on this... <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/wink.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>If there is a common reservoir...you will need to purge the clutch's hydraulics at the same time you do the brakes.<p>Cheers,<br>Prospero<br>
 

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Re: (Prospero)

There is no separate resevoir for the clutch. <p>You need to make sure to pinch off the feed from the master cylinder to the clutch slave cylinder or risk over-pressurizing it if you use a pressure bleeder. At least one person here learned that the hard way and when the clutch failed (and the dealer saw non-Volvo blue ATE fluid) they had their warranty claim denied.<p>
 

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Re: (StaggRLee)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>StaggRLee</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is no separate resevoir for the clutch. <p>You need to make sure to pinch off the feed from the master cylinder to the clutch slave cylinder or risk over-pressurizing it if you use a pressure bleeder. At least one person here learned that the hard way and when the clutch failed (and the dealer saw non-Volvo blue ATE fluid) they had their warranty claim denied.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Technically, SuperBlue isnt DOT-4 approved fluid (only because of its color)<br>thats the reason volvo had for denying coverage. you might want to use ATE TYP200-- same fluid but DOT approved amber.<p>
 

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Re: (SilverS60RNYC)

There's no doubt the ATE SuperBlue fluid is as good as any Volvo specs. and that it wasn't the cause of the failure this person experienced but it is non-Volvo approved and is grounds for denying warranty claims apparently.<p>The bleeding procedure was most likely at fault and the blue fluid merely provided evidence that a fluid replacement had been done and that it wasn't done by Volvo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Like I said, been years and years since I worked on my own cars. Obviously the answer is clutch and brake fluid types are the same. (Bang head.) <p>So to do both breaks and clutch would 2 litres be enough?<br>
 

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Re: (StaggRLee)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>StaggRLee</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is no separate resevoir for the clutch. <p>You need to make sure to pinch off the feed from the master cylinder to the clutch slave cylinder or risk over-pressurizing it if you use a pressure bleeder. At least one person here learned that the hard way and when the clutch failed (and the dealer saw non-Volvo blue ATE fluid) they had their warranty claim denied.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>No need. Pressurize brake system to ~30 psi. Start with driver side front wheel. <p>If you want to bleed the clutch system a pressure bleeder is a must else the pedal will end up at the floor..
 

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Re: (Johann)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Johann</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><p>No need. Pressurize brake system to ~30 psi. Start with driver side front wheel. <br></TD></TR></TABLE><p>Why does VADIS state that you should crimp the clutch feed when bleeding the brakes then?
 

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Re: (StaggRLee)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>StaggRLee</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><p>Why does VADIS state that you should crimp the clutch feed when bleeding the brakes then?</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Where does it say so?<p>Bleeded brakes many times, never a clutch problem. Only clutch problem when trying to bleed clutch without a pressure bleeder because the system can't pressurize the clutch line from the reservoir by itself that fast.. <p>Don't go over 30 psi on the system.
 

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Re: (Johann)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Johann</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><br>Start with driver side front wheel. <br></TD></TR></TABLE><p>Johann,<br>Just curios why you start here? I have always bled brakes starting with the one farthest from the master cylinder, then working to closest. <br>I'm sure it probably doesn't make much difference with the new ABS systems that have seperate ciruits.<p>Pat
 

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Re: Replacing Brake Fluid (jazee)

Hope your brake master cylinder doesn't fail on you. Just had the dealer do a brake fluid flush and they couldn't get the pedal off of the floor, turns out the BMC was faulty. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vortexmediagroup.com/images/banghead.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: (StaggRLee)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>StaggRLee</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why does VADIS state that you should crimp the clutch feed when bleeding the brakes then?</TD></TR></TABLE><br>i actually just checked vadis, it doesnt mention crimping the clutch line under the brake bleeding instructions. it does caution you to relieve the pressure in the system by disconnecting the bleeder and cracking a nipple open.<br>
 

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Re: (SilverS60RNYC)

Don't recall exactly where I saw that but I know I did. I think it was in the 2003 version but I can't seem to find it in the 2004 B version. Maybe it was an unecessary precaution and was removed. Or my memory is shot. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/confused.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>
 

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Re: (StaggRLee)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>StaggRLee</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't recall exactly where I saw that but I know I did. I think it was in the 2003 version but I can't seem to find it in the 2004 B version. Maybe it was an unecessary precaution and was removed. Or my memory is shot. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/confused.gif" BORDER="0"> </TD></TR></TABLE><p>my vadis is 2005B, no mention of that...
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
A little off topic but is VADIS the same tool used to perform a SUM recalibration or is it called something else? I forget what SUM stands for also.
 

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Re: (jazee)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>jazee</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A little off topic but is VADIS the same tool used to perform a SUM recalibration or is it called something else? I forget what SUM stands for also.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>It's your thread you can go as far OT as you like. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/wink.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>Yes VADIS and it's communication module (VCT 2000) is all that's required to do a SUM recalibration. No download from Volvo is required.<p>SUM = Suspension Module??
 

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Re: (Pat S)

The front and rear brakes are separate systems with common resevoir. You can start with either the front right or rear right for bleeding.<p> Johann, is 30lbs ok. I read somewhere not to go over 5lbs. think it was IPD where I bought my Power Bleeder. Boy that would sure speed up the process, I've been bleeding with only 5lbs pressure, drip, drip, drip, drip.<p> Also to get to the clutch bleeder is a real pain, you have to take the air box off to get to it, and as I found out, you have to unscrew the bleeder nipple quite a few turns, not like the caplipers.
 
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