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Discussion Starter #1
I tackled the front struts in my 04 S60R . The job is pretty straightforward where i had trouble was locating and then disconecting the plug for the shocks. It was also a little difficult to remove the end link bolt as it is in tension. I ended using a long pipe to pry the control arm down and free up the tension for the upper bolt. For transfering the springs I bought a set of strut spring compressor from harbor freight for $19 and they worked just fine. One thing I did not due is the strut mounts. If I have to do them later oh well. Now I need to get a front end alignment and a SUM calibration. This was only my 2nd vehical to do the struts on and the volvo was eisier than the toyotal previa minivan. To re-connect the plug for the shocks I dropped a piece of string from the engine bay to the ground in order to tie the plug to and pull the plug up with the string. I did not take any pics.
 

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Looks like someone did their homework...using the string trick is critical
glad everything went smooth, def get the alignment soon, I chewed the inside of one of my tires because i waited too long. mine went squishy before my sum cal, rode much better post cal
where did you get your struts and how many miles do you have on your R?
 

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To relieve the tension some people just put a jack under the hub and compress the strut I believe.


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Never relieved the pressure even when I worked on them everyday. Used 3/8 impact. It spins fast enough to loosen them. Another way to pull the wires is a long hook tool or a long spring loaded grabber tool. I was able to push my wires far enough up to grab hold. Good lighting is key in a engine bays as room is scarce as you all know. On another note, always pull the cv bolt. I left it in last time and ended up separating the inner cv joint. Pain in the ace to put back together. Did you replace struts because of wear, or fault code(s).
 

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Struts shouldn't need an alignment afterwards to be honest. If your alignment is out it was most likely out before the job.

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Discussion Starter #6
I got the struts from Just-Suspension on Ebay for $648.96. No fault codes but the right strut was rattling when cold. I have 120,459 miles on the odometer. I used an impact wrench on all the bolts as well. No issue removing any of the nuts. But the end link stud that mounts through the strut is under tension and is a little difficult to push it out. By using a little leverage it was easy to push the stud of the end link out of the strut and reinstalling the end link stud into the strut. The end link was the last bolt I installed. I did not mess with the CV joint at all and all appears well.
 

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Struts shouldn't need an alignment afterwards to be honest. If your alignment is out it was most likely out before the job.

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You are wrong. The bolts that hold the strut to the knuckle are part of the suspension geometry. Camber effects toe and new struts will effect your toe. It's just better to get an alignment.

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You are wrong. The bolts that hold the strut to the knuckle are part of the suspension geometry. Camber effects toe and new struts will effect your toe. It's just better to get an alignment.

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Hmm, that's interesting. I'll have to take a look at mine tomorrow, but I don't recall the mounts on the strut being adjustable at all. At least on my wife's C70 Coupe they came off and went on in the identical place. I mean an alignment never hurts, but it's extra money that may not need to be spent. I'd say get an alignment that has a warranty with it in case that wasn't the only problem..
 

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Hmm, that's interesting. I'll have to take a look at mine tomorrow, but I don't recall the mounts on the strut being adjustable at all.
He's right. I just did my wheel bearing today and things got out of hand because of that stupid sway bar endlink (forgot to remove it before I got too into things). Loosen the two bolts that hold the strut. Wiggle the knuckle. You can probably get 3-5 degrees of camber from that.

As for the end links: what I do is remove the nut from the sway bar. Lower the car on the wheel with hand torqued lug nuts. Then reach behind the wheel (or turn the wheel if need be) and slip the end link off. When the car is on the ground there is sway bar is not loaded.
 

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He's right. I just did my wheel bearing today and things got out of hand because of that stupid sway bar endlink (forgot to remove it before I got too into things). Loosen the two bolts that hold the strut. Wiggle the knuckle. You can probably get 3-5 degrees of camber from that.

As for the end links: what I do is remove the nut from the sway bar. Lower the car on the wheel with hand torqued lug nuts. Then reach behind the wheel (or turn the wheel if need be) and slip the end link off. When the car is on the ground there is sway bar is not loaded.
Yep. You can also jack the front or rear up evenly and get both wheels off the ground.

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Yep. You can also jack the front or rear up evenly and get both wheels off the ground.

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^ this. Just as on a lift, with both front wheels off the ground there will be no load on the swaybar. If there's so much concern over the alignment due to camber, then use chalk/paint and trace around the body of the strut where it wraps around the knuckle. Just put the new strut there and I bet you're on the money.
 

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^ this. Just as on a lift, with both front wheels off the ground there will be no load on the swaybar. If there's so much concern over the alignment due to camber, then use chalk/paint and trace around the body of the strut where it wraps around the knuckle. Just put the new strut there and I bet you're on the money.
Screw that, push it all the way in! Free camber plates for epic handleobraesing.

 

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Why is a sum cal required for a shock change? I am having a hard time understanding why...

Is this something that Indy mechanics can do? Or stealer only?
 

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Why is a sum cal required for a shock change? I am having a hard time understanding why...

Is this something that Indy mechanics can do? Or stealer only?
The final rest position will be different with newer struts. If your above or below what the car thinks is "level" the ride can be affected.

Anyone that has the Vida tool can provide this service for you.
 

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Screw that, push it all the way in! Free camber plates for epic handleobraesing.

Well, that's what I do....lol, but I know it's "out of spec" lol
 
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