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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i bought a 06 xc90 awd 2.5t a month ago. the day i drove it home when i went over the mountain i got a no oil pressure stop safely light, i stopped, check the the oil which was full, started it back up again and it disappeared, been driving it since and it only reappears after high rpm going fast up the mountain highway here. discovered it has sludge and a teeny bit of metal in the oil, still been driving it. doesnt have knocking or anything. i got vida and dice and dont have any error codes of relevance. so im swapping the pcv system although it passes the glove test and dropping the sump to clean it out , change the seals and check the pickup etc.

i got a set of glyco rod bearings to swap out while im in there. how essential is it to use plastigage when i have no knocking no spun bearing and the car runs fine? since they are the STD size can i just swap them out and not worry about it? vida says to check the bearings if the car has sludge but i figure i might as well swap them if im in there already and as it has 180,000kms.
 

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06 xc90 awd 2.5t
no oil pressure stop safely light, oil which was full, reappears after high rpm going fast up the mountain highway here.180,000kms.
When you are cleaning out the sludge in the oil pan, replace the oil pick up tube or you will have the same problem. Hopefully the crankshaft is not scratched. If it looks perfect plastigage is not needed. And hopefully the turbo bearing are not worn - that's usually what start the process. Technically you are supposed to use new rod bolts, (they are torque to yield) but I have done several sets of bearings simply reusing the old bolts. Be sure to switch to synthetic oil also!

Vida does not care about oil pressure - that's not something it monitors.
 

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Many years ago I knew of an International TD25 engine failure as a result of a failed turbo. I don't know if the same could apply to yours. What kind of metal, white, yellow or magnetic?
It sounds though as if you are on the right track to possibly keep it going for some extra miles/kilometers.
 

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it only reappears after high rpm going fast up the mountain highway here.
Any idea what the oil temp is? If the oil is getting to hot it will thin out and you will loose pressure. Another possibility is the oil is not draining back into the sump fast enough (you mentioned sludge). I would think this would trip the oil level monitor, though, assuming your model has one.

If you're in there anyhow, you might want to inspect one of the rod bearings. Select the one farthest away from the oil pump. If it looks good, don't mess with them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
When you are cleaning out the sludge in the oil pan, replace the oil pick up tube or you will have the same problem. Hopefully the crankshaft is not scratched. If it looks perfect plastigage is not needed. And hopefully the turbo bearing are not worn - that's usually what start the process. Technically you are supposed to use new rod bolts, (they are torque to yield) but I have done several sets of bearings simply reusing the old bolts. Be sure to switch to synthetic oil also!

Vida does not care about oil pressure - that's not something it monitors.
planning on just cleaning the oil pickup...and yeah im thinking maybe the metal could be from the turbo. i checked the boost pressure in vida went for a drive and it seems to be operating normally. i have the new rod bolts and buying a angle torque wrench tmrw. already switched to synthetic, thats when i discovered the metal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Many years ago I knew of an International TD25 engine failure as a result of a failed turbo. I don't know if the same could apply to yours. What kind of metal, white, yellow or magnetic?
It sounds though as if you are on the right track to possibly keep it going for some extra miles/kilometers.
it is possible. metal appeared to be white/silver and non metalic. although the magnet i used was kinda ****e.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Any idea what the oil temp is? If the oil is getting to hot it will thin out and you will loose pressure. Another possibility is the oil is not draining back into the sump fast enough (you mentioned sludge). I would think this would trip the oil level monitor, though, assuming your model has one.

If you're in there anyhow, you might want to inspect one of the rod bearings. Select the one farthest away from the oil pump. If it looks good, don't mess with them.
no i dont know the oil temp, no codes or anything stored, and im at the point i dont want to retrigger it to check with vida... went over the mountain today and no oil pressure warning, i didnt push it high rpms though so i think that is why. it could be seals in oil sump. guess i will see when i open it up.

why not change the rod bearings if i have them already and am in there anyways? figured id do it since im going to go through taking it all apart and dont want to do it again later.
 

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why not change the rod bearings if i have them already and am in there anyways?
It's really your choice. I just don't subscribe to the idea that "no reason not to" is a reason to do something. I'm more of the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" ilk. Otherwise sometimes you fix it until it is broke...

Find an oil system diagram for the engine, find the rod bearing farthest from the oil pump, and inspect it. If it's good, I wouldn't mess with it any further. If it's not good, well, you've discovered the tip of the iceberg... It's unlikely that the bearings caused the loss of oil pressure, so, new bearings won't cure anything.
 

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planning on just cleaning the oil pickup...
The new style pickup is plastic and shaped like a tulip bulb - if you don't replace the flat metal pickup you will be taking your oil pan off again to put the new style in. Happened to me several times - my tech claims old style pickup is clean - 2 days later my tech takes oil pan off and puts new style pickup in to keep oil light from coming on at the wrong time. Customers pissed because job took 2 extra days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
The new style pickup is plastic and shaped like a tulip bulb - if you don't replace the flat metal pickup you will be taking your oil pan off again to put the new style in. Happened to me several times - tech claims old style pickup is clean - 2 days later tech takes oil pan off and puts new style pickup in to keep oil light from coming on at the wrong time. Customers pissed because job took 2 extra days.
uhg, spent enough on this already lol didnt want to spend more. EDIT-bought it anyways

btw whats the point of the glove test? mine had good suction when i tried that, yet today i got the pcv out and its completely clogged on the bottom, absolutely no way anything was getting through... thing feels like its completely full of carbon/sludge too...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
It's really your choice. I just don't subscribe to the idea that "no reason not to" is a reason to do something. I'm more of the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" ilk. Otherwise sometimes you fix it until it is broke...

Find an oil system diagram for the engine, find the rod bearing farthest from the oil pump, and inspect it. If it's good, I wouldn't mess with it any further. If it's not good, well, you've discovered the tip of the iceberg... It's unlikely that the bearings caused the loss of oil pressure, so, new bearings won't cure anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
is manually opening the throttle to clean it a bad idea? i did a bunch of times when i was cleaning it...then watched a video saying it will damage it...never cleaned an electric one before.
am i screwed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
i didnt end up doing the bearings cause the ones in there looked really good. it runs very nice now , improved fuel economy too. the passage from the pcv into the sump was pretty much fossilized.
 
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