I think the type of oil is more crucial than the change interval. I don't think we would have seen as many cases, at least with the 2012 5 cylinder, if Volvo had used and specified a full synthetic from the start. Case in point, my engine started burning oil pretty bad by 40,000 miles. Volvo's change interval for this MY was 7500 miles. Still being a bit old school I was changing the oil myself in-between, so every 3750 using the proper Volvo speced oil at the time. The scoring was bad they actually replaced the engine thankfully all under warranty. But I'm really glad this has worked for you.
Repairing High Oil Consumption with Fuel and Oil Additives - 6 month update - it works!
Six months ago I shared that using Liqui-Moly ProLine Engine Flush helped with my oil consumption issue on my 5 cylinder Volvo. Well, now that some time has passed, I can give an update.
Around 1 quart got consumed after 2500 miles. After adding Liqui-Moly ViscoPlus, I have not burned any oil after driving 1500 more miles.
I now have an improved procedure for fixing this issue:
This works because Volvo did not design their oil control ring correctly. The oil control ring becomes fouled with carbon deposits, and oil ends up in the combustion chamber instead of being scraped down the cylinder wall. Engine flush will remove years of built-up deposits from the oil control ring.
The fuel system cleaner contains PEA, a detergent which can break up carbon deposits in the combustion chamber which result from oil consumption. These deposits can cause spark plug fouling, clogged injectors and other issues.
Since some oil is burnt and sent through the exhaust, it is essential that any oil or additives used are labeled as safe for catalytic converters!
Around 1 quart got consumed after 2500 miles. After adding Liqui-Moly ViscoPlus, I have not burned any oil after driving 1500 more miles.
I now have an improved procedure for fixing this issue:
- Lift the car with a jack and jack stands or ramps.
- Next, add a bottle of Liqui-Moly ProLine Engine Flush to the engine oil and idle the engine for 15 minutes.
- Drain the engine oil. Be careful as the oil will be hot!
- Remove the oil filter. A low profile 36mm socket and a flex head ratchet or a regular ratchet with universal joint and extension is required.
- Reinstall the drain plug and belly pan with a new aluminum crush washer.
- Install the new oil filter.
- Add a 300ml can of Liqui-Moly Viscoplus for Oil.
- Add new oil of your choice. I have had good results with both Castrol and Liqui Moly oil.
- Add a can of fuel system cleaner and top up the tank with gasoline. Any cleaner with a lot of PEA in it will work. RedLine and Techron are popular.
- Drive around. Recycle used oil properly!
This works because Volvo did not design their oil control ring correctly. The oil control ring becomes fouled with carbon deposits, and oil ends up in the combustion chamber instead of being scraped down the cylinder wall. Engine flush will remove years of built-up deposits from the oil control ring.
The fuel system cleaner contains PEA, a detergent which can break up carbon deposits in the combustion chamber which result from oil consumption. These deposits can cause spark plug fouling, clogged injectors and other issues.
Since some oil is burnt and sent through the exhaust, it is essential that any oil or additives used are labeled as safe for catalytic converters!
1 - 20 of 68 Posts
My 2013 specified full synthetic from the start.I think the type of oil is more crucial than the change interval. I don't think we would have seen as many cases, at least with the 2012 5 cylinder, if Volvo had used and specified a full synthetic from the start. Case in point, my engine started burning oil pretty bad by 40,000 miles. Volvo's change interval for this MY was 7500 miles. Still being a bit old school I was changing the oil myself in-between, so every 3750 using the proper Volvo speced oil at the time. The scoring was bad they actually replaced the engine thankfully all under warranty. But I'm really glad this has worked for you.
What year is your car? How many miles at the time you started engine flushes with Liqui-Moly? Might've caught it early enough to clean up carbon build up. I've started using Liqui-Moly engine flush every / every other oil change with 4k-6k mile intervals.Six months ago I shared that using Liqui-Moly ProLine Engine Flush helped with my oil consumption issue on my 5 cylinder Volvo. Well, now that some time has passed, I can give an update.
Around 1 quart got consumed after 2500 miles. After adding Liqui-Moly ViscoPlus, I have not burned any oil after driving 1500 more miles.
I now have an improved procedure for fixing this issue:
A lower oil change interval is also useful to preventing oil consumption. An extractor pump will leave 100ml or so of old oil in the crankcase, but extracting oil halfway between Volvo's recommended 10k oil changes should be enough.
- Lift the car with a jack and jack stands or ramps.
- Next, add a bottle of Liqui-Moly ProLine Engine Flush to the engine oil and idle the engine for 15 minutes.
- Drain the engine oil. Be careful as the oil will be hot!
- Remove the oil filter. A low profile 36mm socket and a flex head ratchet or a regular ratchet with breaker bar with extension is required.
- Reinstall the drain plug and belly pan with a new aluminum crush washer.
- Install the new oil filter.
- Add a 300ml can of Liqui-Moly Viscoplus for Oil.
- Add new oil of your choice. I have had good results with both Castrol and Liqui Moly oil.
- Add a can of fuel system cleaner and top up the tank with gasoline. Any cleaner with a lot of PEA in it will work.
- Drive around. Recycle used oil properly!
This works because Volvo did not design their oil control ring correctly. The oil control ring becomes fouled with carbon deposits, and oil ends up in the combustion chamber instead of being scraped down the cylinder wall. Engine flush will remove years of built-up deposits from the oil control ring.
The fuel system cleaner contains PEA, a detergent which can break up carbon deposits in the combustion chamber which result from oil consumption. These deposits can cause spark plug fouling, clogged injectors and other issues.
Since some oil is burnt and sent through the exhaust, it is essential that any oil or additives used are labeled as safe for catalytic converters!
It's a 2013 S60. It was my mom's car before I got it and I flushed the engine when I got it at 65k miles. All previous services were at the dealer with 10k oil changes.What year is your car? How many miles at the time you started engine flushes with Liqui-Moly? Might've caught it early enough to clean up carbon build up. I've started using Liqui-Moly engine flush every / every other oil change with 4k-6k mile intervals.
Yes, this was changed for 2013 and made retroactive for 2012 through service appointments with the dealer. I believe the manuals might have also changed as well.My 2013 specified full synthetic from the start.
How do you use the suction pump on our cars with no dipstick?
Also, if the dealer is changing the oil, would you add some engine flush before they did? Would this do something they would complain about?
Also, if the dealer is changing the oil, would you add some engine flush before they did? Would this do something they would complain about?
I know that you don’t want to hear this… But you should probably consider trading in that vehicle.
Who?I know that you don’t want to hear this… But you should probably consider trading in that vehicle.
My car works fine and uses no oil whatsoever. I just want to keep it that way.
I've had similar success with my 2014 S60 T5 AWD. When I bought it at 70k miles, it went through a quart in 2k miles. I went to a 2500 mile oil change interval with 5w40 synthetic. I have now done four treatments with LiquiMoly proline engine flush (two at 2500 miles and two at 5000 miles) Now, over 15000 miles later, my oil consumption has been reduced by more than half. I will be interested to see what it is at the end of this 2500 mile interval.
Who? Why?I know that you don’t want to hear this… But you should probably consider trading in that vehicle.
The 5 cylinder has a dipstick.How do you use the suction pump on our cars with no dipstick?
Also, if the dealer is changing the oil, would you add some engine flush before they did? Would this do something they would complain about?
@OP - I am thinking that a quart at 2500 miles is high. I’m comparing this to my vehicles, I burn less than a quart every 10k miles.Who?
My car works fine and uses no oil whatsoever. I just want to keep it that way.
Pretty common for any car with low tension oil control rings spec'd in the quest for higher fuel economy. Volvo, Audi, Toyota, etc. No one is really immune.@OP - I am thinking that a quart at 2500 miles is high. I’m comparing this to my vehicles, I burn less than a quart every 10k miles.
Uh, the point of his post was that he was able to reduce consumption from a quart every 2,500 miles to now not having burned any oil in 1,500 miles.@OP - I am thinking that a quart at 2500 miles is high. I’m comparing this to my vehicles, I burn less than a quart every 10k miles.
We had a Toyota Camry that used 1 qt of oil a month. Not one drip on the garage floor. Toyota told us that was acceptable and refused to replace the rings. Traded it in and I’ll never buy another Toyota agIN. 🤷♂️
You have to idle the car for 15 minutes before using engine flush, but you cannot drive it with engine flush in the crankcase.How do you use the suction pump on our cars with no dipstick?
Also, if the dealer is changing the oil, would you add some engine flush before they did? Would this do something they would complain about?
Well that is a non-starter then. Maybe I'll use it on my V70, that one I change myself.You have to idle the car for 15 minutes before using engine flush, but you cannot drive it with engine flush in the crankcase.
Curious how much of that reduction in consumption is the flush, vs the viscoplus. Cuz I’ve done 4 flushes on 2500 mi interval and still have the same 1Q/1k mi consumption. What mileage are you doing this at?
72k miles on the car. I think it is ViscoPlus that really makes a difference. Try using some!Curious how much of that reduction in consumption is the flush, vs the viscoplus. Cuz I’ve done 4 flushes on 2500 mi interval and still have the same 1Q/1k mi consumption. What mileage are you doing this at?
1 - 20 of 68 Posts
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