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I just installed Kleen Wheels on my daughter's 2004.5 S40. Not sure if the wheels were ever off the car yet, it has about 19,000 miles and she purchased it at about 7,500 miles (it was the dealer's service loaner). After removing all lug nuts I had to hammer on the tires with my sledge to get the wheels to break free from the axle hub. All 4 were rusted on tight. The wheels are the 16 x 6.5 7 spoke Caligo wheels. Is this a known issue? I cleaned the hubs with a brass brush and applied anti-sieze before reassembling.
 

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Re: Removing wheels (Parts @ Boston Volvo)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Parts @ Boston Volvo</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This used to happen on my VW Corrado all the time. Put the lugs back on kind of loose and roll the car a bit. The wheels will loosen.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Oh cool you have a Corrado. I still have mine but it's not working at the moment. One day it sputter sputter and died. No spark. I changed out the coil w/ no luck. It's been neglected since I got my new ride.
 

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Re: Removing wheels (volvoNB)

Haha, we should have a "former Corrado owners club" I used to have a 91 G60.<p>I've never had any wheels rust like that. Perhaps the car used to sit for long periods of time? Maybe that had something to do with it? I'm just guessing.
 

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Re: Removing wheels (TFS)

I had the same problem removing the factory wheels when I put on my new wheel/tire combo from Tire Rack. I tried a rubber mallet with no results, and ended up using a few good kicks with the bottom of my boots to free each wheel. I noticed after getting the wheels off, the center hubs had a dry layer of crud that was hard to remove, and a crusty star washer was on one of the studs at each wheel. Hopefully I don't have the same difficulty when I swap back the factory wheels with my trusty Blizzaks for the winter. Does anyone know if this is a common occurance?
 

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Re: Removing wheels (volvoNB)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>volvoNB</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...Oh cool you have a Corrado...</TD></TR></TABLE><p>I had an early '90 G60 model for six years. Bought in April of '90 (as a 30th birthday present to myself); it was assembled in June of '89. Serial #2262.<p><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>TFS</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Haha, we should have a "former Corrado owners club" I used to have a 91 G60.<p>I've never had any wheels rust like that. Perhaps the car used to sit for long periods of time? Maybe that had something to do with it? I'm just guessing.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>My guess with the wheels is dissimilar metals and possibly moisture. My Corrado got a lot of use. It was a very fun car to drive with distinctive styling. I balked at the bright yellow color at first but never regretted it later. Sold it in Spring of '96 to the son of a co-worker and bought a '96 Camaro Z-28 (six-speed, Bose...nice).<p>John<p>
 

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Every time I rotate the tires on my g/f's 2003 S40 it takes a little banging to break them loose. That's every 15k miles IIRC. I haven't taken the wheels off my 2006 yet.
 

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Re: Removing wheels (AlaskanAWD)

ALLAN - It's the aluminum corrosion wedging between the wheel & hub. Applying anti-sieze compound fixes the problem. It's available where automotive parts & supplies are available. The star washer is to hold the brake rotor onto the hub. The crud is alum. oxide mixed in with a little iron oxide...
 

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Re: Removing wheels (POWERSTROKE)

Thanks POWERSTROKE! I wanted to put a light layer of lubricant on the hub, but didn't want to attract dirt and make the problem worse. I'll try a light coat of anti-seize.
 

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Re: Removing wheels (AlaskanAWD)

The Alcoa wheels on My pickup do that all the time.... Any time I have them off I recoat the mating surfaces. The Antisieze is a gray paste, a small tube will easily do all four wheels....and once You get it on Your hands it gets ALL OVER.....It's the Moly powder in the compound.
 

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Re: Removing wheels (AlaskanAWD)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>AlaskanAWD</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">didn't want to attract dirt and make the problem worse. I'll try a light coat of anti-seize.</TD></TR></TABLE><br>Anti-seize will attract just as much dirt. FYI.<p>Tom.
 

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Re: Removing wheels (tmtalpey)

Tom - Yes, Anti-sieze will attract some dirt and it's already dirty stuff to begin with but as long as it's applied to the place between the wheel & hub where the wheel is sticking due to corrosion the wheel will be easy to remove. And the wheel should be easy to clean. My truck's wheels are polished and clear epoxy coated from the factory and I can make my 10 yr old wheels look like brand new except where the old balance weights were. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/frown.gif" BORDER="0"> <br> I think all the available S40/V50 wheels are epoxy painted so a wipe with a clean soft towel or rag cleans them.
 

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Re: Removing wheels (POWERSTROKE)

Wasn't disagreeing with the idea, just wanted to point out it won't keep dirt away. Actually, Volvo just says use a thin film of grease. Moisture is the issue - the aluminum/steel interface is what causes the corrosion. A grease film buffers this.<p>Tom.
 
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