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The double walled push pin has me stuck.. I only see a single. <p>Any tips on how to remove this as I can't get a socket wrench in there with it on... <p>See picture number 3. <p><A HREF="http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=98390" TARGET="_blank">http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=98390</A><p> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vortexmediagroup.com/images/banghead.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: Removing the gear selector mechanism for the Reverse Switch (zabto)

crap -- I'm stuck at this point as well right now. Everything else is out of the way, but I need to remove the meachnism in order to have a shot at getting a wrench on the switch.<p>If anyone has the knowledge, and sees this message in the next half hour, please call me (703-598-0460).<p>Thanks!<p>David
 

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I had to replace my reverse switch as well, but I did not think to remove the gear selector. I removed the bracket holding the cables/moved the cables out of the way, and I "shifted" the position of the gear selector so I could fit my deep well socket/socket wrench to remove the switch. Hope that helps somewhat, if not then good luck figuring out the gear selector assembly removal. When I get home I'll check VADIS for you on how they recommend taking it out.
 

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Re: (SHIFT_S60R)

Thats a good tip regarding unbolting the whole mamma jamma. I found that i did not have the internal portion of the double-walled push-pin either. I did not own a drift, but that is what the instructions indicated as the method to remove it.
 

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Re: (JoeLvo)

Thanks -- I was thinking a drift pin was the way to go as well. Space is pretty limited in there, but I'll see if I can do it tomorrow night.<p>As far as leaving the assembly in place and using a socket, there was not enough room to get a socket on it, as well as a flex coupling, etc. -- at least not with the rachet and socket parts I have.
 

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Remove the bracket that holds the cables in place. That will give you enough room for a deep well socket and a socket wrench. You might not be able to make huge turns to loosen/tighten the socket, but slow and steady wins the race, or at least finishes, which is all I really cared about. I didn't want someone to hit me cause they didn't see my reverse lights. I'll check VADIS, now that I'm home, but I'm pretty sure JoeLvo hit it on the head with what he thought the instructions said.
 

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VADIS Instructions

Disregard what I said about JoeLvo being right. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/tongue.gif" BORDER="0"> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/wink.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>Here are the instructions from VADIS.<p> <IMG SRC="http://images46.fotki.com/v1518/fileo4tC/f6cb7/9/956967/7142655/ReverseSwitch1.jpg" BORDER="0"> <br> <IMG SRC="http://images46.fotki.com/v1517/fileWERF/f6cb7/9/956967/7142655/ReverseSwitch2.jpg" BORDER="0"> <p><br>Seems easy enough, huh? <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/sly.gif" BORDER="0"> <br>Good luck.
 

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Thanks, guys. I stared at that bracket for a little while and thought about removing it, but wasn't sure if I would be opening up a can of worms. I'll give it a shot tonight.
 

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Removed bracket, but did not have appropriate tools to remove switch. The one socket I had that fit was too long to get a rachet onto. I would think this is a potential application for those sockets that fit into wrenches (which I don't have).<p>So I wound up driving out the pin and removing the selector assembly. I used a couple different small sockets, a socket extension, some allen wrenches and a long machine bolt as the 'driver'. All-in-all, it took me about 1-1/2 hours and numerous trips to the basement to search for yet another item that would serve as a useable driver <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/smile.gif" BORDER="0"><p>The actual switch replacement was cake, and the reverse lights are working once again. Looking at the old and new switches side-by-side, it seems like Volvo made a few improvements.<p>Thanks for the help!<BR><BR>
<i>Modified by BlackTalon at 1:22 PM 6-4-2009</i>
 

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Re: (BlackTalon)

Props for doing it, but like some of the guys above said - you didnt have to remove the gear selector. <br>I replaced mine 2 weeks ago and all I did was I unhooked the shift cables, then took a wrench (kinda like the one below) and loosened up the switch, then unscrewed it with my fingers. Putting it back together was a piece of cake. The "hardest" part was re-wiring the whole thing. But iit feels good to have my reverse lights again<p><IMG SRC="http://tbn3.google.com/images?q=tbn:p4MPg1CX9_YOYM:http://www.hor-i-zon.com/catalog/images/TKR4A.jpg" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: (tomedkaz)

I did not have a wrench that would fit. Believe me, I tried! In that size I only had one, and it was too wide and thick to fit onto the switch in the limited available space. With that being said, the 'nut' portion of the new switch is deeper then the original, which should make it easier to get a wrench on the next time I need to do it.<p>My tool selection is okay, but not great. I don't have any metric wrenches bigger then 19mm, and the only sockets I had that were the correct size were deep-well, so I could not get them hooked to a wrachet.<p>I'll be picking up a bigger wrench set very soon! <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/smile.gif" BORDER="0"><BR><BR>
<i>Modified by BlackTalon at 4:26 PM 6-4-2009</i>
 

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Re: (SHIFT_S60R)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>SHIFT_S60R</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Best part about not having tools that don't fit.....is getting new tools!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>Yeah, that's usually a normal part of these projects. In fact, I finally broke in my new rolling tool chest for this project -- since it was raining so much when I was working, I rolled it near the front of the car and strung a tarp from the top of the tool chest to the top of the open hood, forming a nice canopy that kept me dry <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/smile.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: (BlackTalon)

Here a comparison of the old and new switches... The 'new' has metal instead of plastic around the contacts, and has a wider 'nut' area to get a wrench or socket onto. A short socket would not work with the old one, but may with the new (I did not check)<br><IMG SRC="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_kNvxNOvmX4s/Sik5jFyaroI/AAAAAAAAAFM/iIZua_wHkh0/s720/Switch%20Comparison.JPG" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: (BlackTalon)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>BlackTalon</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here a comparison of the old and new switches... The 'new' has metal instead of plastic around the contacts, and has a wider 'nut' area to get a wrench or socket onto. A short socket would not work with the old one, but may with the new (I did not check)<br><IMG SRC="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_kNvxNOvmX4s/Sik5jFyaroI/AAAAAAAAAFM/iIZua_wHkh0/s720/Switch%20Comparison.JPG" BORDER="0"> </TD></TR></TABLE><p>My new switched looked diffrent; I had to re-wire it with the supplied wires too....
 

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Re: (tomedkaz)

Interesting stuff.<p>I did this awhile back and also just removed the plate. What was different was when we ran the part number at dealers they had a superceeded number. They actually had one of the units in stock...which is very rare for Germany, from what I've seen, they don't keep much in stock. What does that tell you? =Common Fault!! The dealer wanted to sell me a whole new connector that seemed to have a superior design for preventing pooling water (I guess) to get in and corrode the relay. I ended up going on the cheap (much cheaper) and finding a parts store that could get the older style relay.
 

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Re: (Dzljet)

I just did this today. I got an even different switch with no exposed "prong" type plugs. It had a plastic sheath at the end of the switch and came with a "deeper" electrical connector with smaller contact pins. I had to cut the wires and solder on the new connector to the wires on my car. They're numbered 1 and 2 on the new and old connectors, so it's easy enough to patch it together.<p>Just like Tommy did, i left the bracket on. I did this my simply removing the gear selector on the driver's side (pops off) and only the one bolt underneath that linkage that holds the bracket on. Then I looped a closed-end wrench (either 7/8" or 13/16", can't remember now) over the old switch and just had to break it loose. It came out by hand. Installation in reverse. Took me 30 minutes total once I had the airbox out, including soldering and taping the connections.
 

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Re: (T5 for Life)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>T5 for Life</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><br>Just like Tommy did, i left the bracket on. I did this my simply removing the gear selector on the driver's side (pops off) and only the one bolt underneath that linkage that holds the bracket on. Then I looped a closed-end wrench (either 7/8" or 13/16", can't remember now) over the old switch and just had to break it loose. It came out by hand. Installation in reverse. Took me 30 minutes total once I had the airbox out, including soldering and taping the connections.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Good man... feels good having the lights back again right?! <br>
 

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I just finished this task and have a bit of insight for those of you yet to do the work. I found that a 22mm, O2 Sensor off-set socket works wonders! Without tampering with the gear-shift cables, I slid it onto the old unit and went about my way. Just need to ensure I have the new one on tight enough. Thank you for the discussion and other suggestions.
 
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