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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
when i put my catless downpipe/cutout on... i never got a chance to put this little o2 spacer/breather on the back o2 sensor so i just plugged the rear one in. I drove around for maybe about a week(getting about 12-13 psi on stock tune at WOT) until the check engine light came on. I rode around for probably another week, thinking the CEL was for the rear o2 sensor realizing there's no cat. after a while, I wasn't hitting the usual 12 psi I was getting when i first installed the pipe... I would only get half of that, and it would get there slow as hell. I kinda chalked it up to the tcv finally blowing.<p>so yesterday I decided to put that little o2 spacer in and erased the code with the code reader(I was stupid and didn't take note of what code I actually had since I thought I already knew what the CEL was for). Immedatly after starting the car, the car idled at around 1k for like maybe 10 seconds and then leveled out. For some reason I thought I was supposed to drive like a granny so I can give the ecu a chance to adapt after clearing the codes, so that's exactly what I did that night and alittle the next morning... but I did get a chance to do a WOT pull from 2nd to 4th gear and full boost was back and felt like a completely different car. <p>after driving for maybe about 80 -90 miles after clearing the code the night before... the CEL comes back on. got it read by nicky and got took note of the two CEL's... front o2 sensor high signal and fuel trim CEL(im assuming the second is a result from the first one). I erased the codes... the car kinda idled high for a bit(just like it did the night before when I erased the codes) and nicky told me to drive WOT everywhere... and that's what I did. I got full boost back the whole afternoon till just now what I finally got home.<p>was i in a reduced state of boost just cuz of a god damn o2 sensor? is the s60r tcv that I ordered kinda pointless at this point? and is my o2 sensor up front shot? <p>I would appreciate any help at all.
 

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Any leaks in your downpipe? I'm assuming yoru cut out is after the 1st o2 sensor.<p>I have the same setup cat-less dp with the CEL on for the rear o2. Never had that problem tho.<p>What other mods do you have?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yep, the cutout is after the first o2 sensor, but right before the second o2 sensor. and that's all folks... that's all i got right now. FMIC is next then Im heading down to oliver at speedtuning for a custom tune. he's also going to eliminate the second o2 sensor in the process... shouldn't be a problem.. right?<p>so I erased all codes again and took a nice ~100 mile drive up to bear mountain. the car felt awesome till about the new york border where all of the sudden I noticed boost wouldn't go above 4-5... same symptoms as before but there was NO CEL...<p>Well since I got a obd2 reader before I left... I read the code and got a pending p1171 error code. Should I wait till I complete a whole drive cycle and see what other codes come up before I clean the MAF?
 

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I would say your maf is on its last legs
 

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Is this coinciding with elevation change?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
nope, no drastic elevation changes. gonna go for another cruise and try to get a drive cycle in to see if those codes come back. i'm sure p1171 is gonna come back but i'm curious to see if anything else shows up. gonna clean my maf sensor too if I get the chance. can i just replace the electronics of the maf sensor instead of the whole piping? who sells replacements the cheapest... fcpgroten?
 

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call jamie , I havent been impressed with anything from FCP , there nice guys and all but so far half the orders are wrong and the parts dont last as long. <p>but they are trying hard to change that so ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
does anyone have a list or diagram of all the vacuum lines when looking for cracks? any place where there could be boost/vacuum leaks on a pretty much stock v70t5?
 

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Re: (fightinchunk)

I would clean the MAF, install a new OEM TCV and reset the ECU first, before buying a new MAF. Drive some 100-200 miles and re-assess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I actually just did get a new s60r tcv... but when i deleted the code... my boost came back real hard.... till the CEL light came back on. i'll install the tcv anyway, thanks for the advice!
 

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Re: (fightinchunk)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>fightinchunk</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I actually just did get a new s60r tcv... but when i deleted the code... my boost came back real hard.... till the CEL light came back on. i'll install the tcv anyway, thanks for the advice!</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Which code do you have? And get the codes from the dealer instead of an auto zone or similar. IIRC some codes can only be read at the dealer using the volvo equipment.<p>Also keep in mind that, after you reset the ECU, you don't want to start driving like Mario Andretti. The ECU is learning and can potentially allow a boost spike and then go hay wire over it. Start by driving like a grandmother and ramp it up to Mario Andretti as you feel the car get stronger and smoother. Go on several ~20min+ highway drives, where you can hold a high gear (3rd and above) at ~1/2 throttle and/or 1/2 boost over the entire RPM range (till 6000-6500 RPMs, no need to go redline). This should give the ECU plenty of room and comfort to learn. If the car gets stronger/smoother, increase the throttle to 3/4 and hold over the RPM range and so on, until you can go WOT.<p>Of course, if this doesn't work, then chances are you still have a problem somewhere. Check for leaks at the cutout. Let us know what DTC codes you have. Good luck.<p>ps - you said you installed a new S60R TCV, but you have a T5. Are they the same part?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
the exact code is P1171 from the obd2 code reader which is a long term fuel trim(upper limit). here's what i dug up on an old SS thread<p><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had that code a while back. I recall it being related to a defective Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor, which was replaced under warranty at the time.<p>But I just checked All-Data, and it shows P1171 as "Long Term Fuel Trim (Upper Limit)," as opposed to P1172 "Long Term Fuel Trim (Lower Limit)." Interestingly, both translate to the same VADIS code (ECM-261A). The upper limit code has to do with a lean condition, and the lower limit code is a rich condition.<p>Only for the lower limit code (P1172) do they suggest that a new MAF sensor is one of the suggested fixes. For what it's worth, that's a very common failure point on our cars.<p>Among the upper limit code causes, they mention the evaporative canister purge valve as being one possible source of a vacuum leak which would cause this code. The CP valve is another very common failure point on our cars.<p>The CP valve costs a whopping $18 from FCP Groton, and is very easy to replace. It's mounted on the air filter assembly. If it were my car, I'd poke around for loose or cracked vacuum lines, then I'd replace the CP valve, and then I'd clear the code. If the problem recurred, I'd throw a new MAF sensor on it in hopes that "this guy on the internet isn't totally senile and is actually on to something." The MAF is also pretty easy to replace.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>i thought the s60r tcv would be alittle stronger... but i think it's the exact same part unfortunatly. i'm getting the ipd hd tcv soon anyway<BR><BR>
<i>Modified by fightinchunk at 8:48 AM 6-2-2009</i>
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
cleaned the maf and put on a brand spanking new filter... car was back to normal. for about 100 miles. then 4psi again gahhhhhhhhhh<p>what really puzzles me is how the car is absolutely perfect right after I erase the P1171 code. then completely falls flat on it's face when the pending code comes up ~100 miles later. if the car is running perfect for those 100-150 miles... then it's gotta mean that the components(o2 sensors, maf, throttle, tcv, sealed intake plumbing etc etc) are working for those precious 100-150 miles... correct?<p>should i order the new maf? i have a feeling it's not gonna make a difference at all. I'm gonna start from square one and get the car vadis scanned. when I got the car scanned through vadis the first time... i got the front o2 sensor high signal code and the fuel trim code(assuming this later one is the p1171). Can anyone else confirm s60r1's inkling that vadis would give me a more detailed or even possibly a different code that could pinpoint it further than just a p1171? maybe nicky was right... maybe i need a new front o2 sensor?
 

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Re: (fightinchunk)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>fightinchunk</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><br>what really puzzles me is how the car is absolutely perfect right after I erase the P1171 code. then completely falls flat on it's face when the pending code comes up ~100 miles later. if the car is running perfect for those 100-150 miles... then it's gotta mean that the components(o2 sensors, maf, throttle, tcv, sealed intake plumbing etc etc) are working for those precious 100-150 miles... correct?<br></TD></TR></TABLE><p>Not necessarily. It just means that the ECU is operating everything normally while it learns, monitors and adjusts. Once it completes its cycle, if something's out of whack, it returns back to problem mode and throws codes. It may seem that the car is running fine, but the ECU doesn't think so.<p>The good news is that, if the car runs fine after a reset, then you shouldn't have any leaks, mechanically speaking, since these would leak regardless of what the ECU is doing. So it's likely some sensor/valve/other part. Your lines should be fine. Try cleaning out the MAF before buying a new one. IIRC they are not cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
already did. im gonna clean it out again... and clean the housing as well. it's 128 bucks from fcpgroten... do we get some kind of discount for being a SS member?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
ok, so I followed s60r's advice lastnight/this morning. I cleaned the maf again, let it dry, erased all codes and drove more granny than my granmother actually drives... but intermittently opening the cutout cuz I miss the sound <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/smile.gif" BORDER="0">. after driving for about 20 miles, I checked the obd2 scanner for ****s and giggles and to my suprise... I get a different code...a pending p1132. I think this is that o2 sensor code that I got when I first got read by vadis... not this pos code reader. a couple of miles down the road I get the pending p1171 which was expected <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/frown.gif" BORDER="0"><p>P1132 - Lack of HO2S-11 Switch, Sensor Indicates Rich A HEGO sensor indicating rich at the end of a test is trying to correct for an over-lean condition. The test fails when the fuel control system no longer detects switching for a calibrated amount of time. See Possible Causes for DTC P1130<p>I think the rear o2 sensor is sensing too much oxygen(either from the cutout being open or from this EVER SO LITTLE exhaust leak pre-rear o2 sensor when it's closed) and thinking the car is running crazy lean... throwing the code and reducing my fun... i mean boost. <p>I think im going to accelerate this tune and head down to oliver at speed tuning. He's close, can eliminate my rear o2 sensor by way of the tune(i think he tricks the computer in thinking the o2 sensor is sending back a constant voltage so the ecu doesn't freak out... i think), and I can go back in a couple of weeks when I get my FMIC on to get my car dynod/custom tune. From what I hear, his tunes are pretty good off the shelf, the only problem is that his shipping methods are questionable, but that doesn't pertain to me as I'll be going down myself...<p>again, I truly appreciate everyone time and help. Please Please Please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong or add. Hopefully once I get all these little quirks out the way more people will add exhaust cutouts to their exhaust options.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I got two slightly different definitions for these two codes that are volvo specific as opposed to the general description from the manufacturer of the code reader:<br>p1171 = Volvo:Fuel Adaption, Bank 1<br>p1132 = Volvo:Oxygen Sensor Front, Bank 1<p>maybe I need to start by replacing the front o2 sensor...
 

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Re: (fightinchunk)

Sounds like you're beginning to narrow it down to the fuel system and exhaust system <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>I'd say fix any leaks 1st, then test drive. If problem/codes pop up again, then maybe get a new O2 sensor or see what people recommend. Good luck!<p>ps - when you test drive, don't open the cut out. Keep it closed until you fix whatever problem you have. Once fixed, use the cut out and see if that in itself gives you problems.
 

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Re: (fightinchunk)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>fightinchunk</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think the rear o2 sensor is sensing too much oxygen(either from the cutout being open or from this EVER SO LITTLE exhaust leak pre-rear o2 sensor when it's closed) and thinking the car is running crazy lean... throwing the code and reducing my fun... i mean boost. <br></TD></TR></TABLE><br>Your rear O2 sensor is not the cause of this problem. It is not used for fuel metering.<p>The only purpose it serves is in monitoring catalytic converter efficiency.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Re: (S60R1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>S60R1</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><br>ps - when you test drive, don't open the cut out. Keep it closed until you fix whatever problem you have. Once fixed, use the cut out and see if that in itself gives you problems.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>kinda did that last night. erased all codes and drove granny style the whole night with it closed. I think driving with the cutout closed is what finally got the front o2 sensor code(p1132) to finally show up. everytime i erased the codes and drove with the cutout open... only p1171 would show up. I'm going to leave the codes in the car for tonight and let nicky read the car with vadis. Then probably just go ahead and order the new o2 sensor but it probably wont get to me in time for my tune.<p>something just kinda hit me... maybe my car's stock tune is just not made to handle a cutout.... like most cars. I mean... I know subarus NEED a tune for just a god damn intake. I know our cars have an adaptive ecu but with the cutout maybe it's just too far out the limit and just needs a tune to compensate. This whole time i've been trying to search for a way for the cutout to work with the stock tune but in reality I shoulda been doing what most other tuners do to thier cars when they get new parts... install the part and baby the car till they can tune the car for it, no matter how small the modification is. <p>So as of this morning, it turns out I'll be getting a tune from oliver for a great price so I'm gonna get the flash loaded on at justin's meet and baby the car back to jersey. once back in jersey I'll give it a good pull and see how the car reacts. or maybe i'll order the wideband first before i go more than half throttle.
 
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