SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
782 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I'm about to leave home for an extended period of time. My R has 120K on it and hasn't had the water pump done or any normal "golden years" replacements (struts, etc) done yet.

So I either sell her and buy another car when I get back, which will put me in dept for the standard 5-6 years at $450-550/month in payments OR I keep it and spend some cash to get 3-5 years more out of her. Chances are pretty good I'll be able to save some cash AND sell the R between now and my return if I decided to go that way (I had a guy chase me for about 5 miles to offer me 10K for it about a month back).

At the end of the day I love my R. I know either way I'll never get the 6k back I've done in mods. I must admit that the thought of buying some other sex machine when I get back has me giddie like a school girl :D

Has anyone else hit this stage yet and decided to stay with it? Got recommendations?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,678 Posts
I'm at 150k and have it completely paid off.

I've done the timing belt and water pump, all four struts, new springs blah blah blah


I'm keeping it. Find a good indy, if you haven't already done so.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,124 Posts
I am not sure how extended your leave is.

You have put a lot of money in the car you will not get out of it, and at over 100K the annual depreciation may not be a factor.

The flip side is, the P2 was an older platform when the R began, so it is a bit long in tooth now. Trend for newer cars is more telematics, and smaller displacement direct injection boosted engines.

If you still enjoy the car, and you can control your lust for something new, it would be the sound economic choice to keep it.

I am not sure of your concern for the water pump, I just changed mine during a timing belt change, and with 200K on it, the water pump was fine, both bearing and impeller.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,480 Posts
Keep it. I agree with rogersampson, it is a better economic choice to keep it. I would take care of the fuel and oil before letting it sit, wait for the rest of the maintenance stuff till you come back.

I was out of the country for the greater part of the past two years. I have 145k on it, and it's basically sat with the occasional start by a family member. It's fine, well other than the leather looking a bit old from sitting outside in the Florida heat.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
782 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm at 150k and have it completely paid off. I've done the timing belt and water pump, all four struts, new springs blah blah blah
I'm keeping it. Find a good indy, if you haven't already done so.
SO, how much all told with the extra blah blah *chuckle*

Your car is so beautiful, keep it! Wouldn't your son be the perfect person to ask about this though seeing as he goes through R's like underwear?
Thanks Patrick! Yeah, he's gonna run it once or twice a week if I keep it. He's not the one that offered me 10k BTW :D

I am not sure of your concern for the water pump, I just changed mine during a timing belt change, and with 200K on it, the water pump was fine, both bearing and impeller.
That's great but not the norm for these cars, is it? I figure if I'm gonna spend some money I'd take it down and do pistons, rings, seals, water pump, all that. I got PLENTY of time.......( a year or so).

My Indie is great but I'm not sure if I trust him with a total rebuild....Maybe I'll send the engine off to Josh and his dad and go all in with a stage 3 ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,927 Posts
That's great but not the norm for these cars, is it? I figure if I'm gonna spend some money I'd take it down and do pistons, rings, seals, water pump, all that. I got PLENTY of time.......( a year or so).
My local dealer says they wait until the 2nd timing belt change to do the water pump (so at 200K miles) and they still never see them fail...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
691 Posts
Do you really need to rebuild your motor? If your out of cost pocket is under let's say 4 to 5 grand then I would keep it.. Assuming that money will let her run good for the next 5 years then its well worth the money.. 500 dollar payment a month for a new car is 6000 grand just for 1 year...5x6000 is 30,000 no money down and no interest... I'm doing the math in my head and the R makes more sense to fix up..


Here are the some factors for me.. Is it still inside and outside in good shape? I mean if it looks old cause the body is messed and and leather is crap then it might not be worth fixing.. But if she is in great shape in and out then keep it!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
If you don't need an engine rebuild why bother. The 5 cylinder motor is a proven motor if you change fluids. When I spent time in England many of the Taxi drivers had Volvos. Most were over 7 years old with a butt load of miles with no engine replacements. Keep the car and follow maintenance intervals. If internals of motor begin to show ware (smoking) or low compression, replace. If you itching for another car, just buy a good used one. It's what I did....I bought a 2004 F150 4x4 with a 6" lift and 35" tires. Now I have a fun turck and fun car.....Good luck with your decision.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
386 Posts
SELL SELL SELL

I just had this debate. after 7 good years with the s60r, i decided to move on last month. In hind site I am so glad I did. I read this bvoard from time to time to see if my old car shows up. I do not miss any of the issues the R faces. AWD, turbo, 4C and the list goes on and on.

I have a new car, 2013 Ford SHO w/ performance pak. I love the car just as much as I did the R. But I can enjoy driving again without the constant fear something will break the next time I use a little to much gas, or shift to hard.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,560 Posts
I don't think he was talking about rebuilding his motor, but rather, doing the "usual maintenance" bits.

Bob, I think it all comes down to how much you like the car, how long you'll be away, and if you think you'll be able to replace it with something comparable when you get back... and how much you'll spend getting that car (and modifying it). Granted, having something new, and nothing to worry about while you're away is nice, but can you avoid the "mod bug" with whatever new car you decide to pick up...?

It's ultimately a $30K decision :D You can always sells your car and get another R when the time comes, as they should be super cheap - or as others have said, sell it to your son and just buy it back from him when he decides that he wants a different set of wheels... ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
782 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
My goal would be to get as close to "near new" and heading off potential future problems as possible. so I was talking about a potential motor rebuild actually Adam, seeing as a blown motor would be the greatest reason I could think of to get rid of the car eventually (IE..worse case other than fire / accident, etc) and a motor rebuild would ensure the greatest longevity in my mind. I would probably keep the car for a blown tranny but a full motor replacement only....no.
SO that, along with strut replacement, a slew of bushings that are in need of replacement, and other things that might be found / tweaked by a competent vovo guy (or gal) is what I'm talking about. Maybe some upgrades along the way too ;)
I mean, taxis with butt loads of miles on them is great but that's not the norm and they likely got way better maintenance than a standard dd does. Really, what does everyone expect to get out their R's. How many miles do you really want to drive it for (OK...flame me everyone) 200, 250k? Like I said, I just want another 3-5 solid years out of her, not make a museum piece :facepalm:
I guess in most peoples minds a pre-emptive engine rebuild falls into the "if it works....." realm.....eh? Well....that's why I asked.
I'll be gone a year.........
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,560 Posts
Rebuild = build in that case. No reason to rush it. Get the parts and do it right. It's easy enough to get a spare and break it down (I have a spare for you ;) ), then throw it in when you feel it's ready. Cryo treated internals, machined head, sleeves or smaller displacement block - basically what I plan on doing when time/funds permit... and what folks have already done. Granted, there aren't more than a handful of documented builds, but there is enough info out there to turn the car into a beast.

That all being said, unless the motor is giving you issues, the more practical option is to just maintain it, or sell it and finance new/used when you get back :(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
919 Posts
I'm by no means an expert on engine rebuilds but my thought would be do the compression/leak down tests to see where you are wrt engine wear.

If good, you'll probably get your 3-5 yrs with normal maintenance. If you do a rebuild on a good engine, I'd think the risk of having it go wrong (even if unlikely) outweighs the slight chance of having an engine problem over that interval.

If bad, do a rebuild. Don't let someone else get a great car on the cheap while you get screwed!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,310 Posts
I have 140k on mine and I tell my wife the only reason I don't want a new car is TPMS....your car is beautiful and I wouldn't worry about it lasting another few more years. Save the $400 - $500 a month you'd make for a new car payment for maintenance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
782 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Just had some work done on it and it looks like I'm going to keep her after all. I do love my R and would miss it although my eyes are still wandering ;)
Thanks for the feedback guys!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
320 Posts
SELL SELL SELL

.........I have a new car, 2013 Ford SHO w/ performance pak. I love the car just as much as I did the R. But I can enjoy driving again without the constant fear something will break the next time I use a little to much gas, or shift to hard.
Funny thing you get a FORD, for a smile read this guys:
http://www.wired.com/reviews/2012/06/taurus-sho/ you sell a performance car just to get a "performance pak" my bad you so right.

Glad you keep the "R", real package.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,752 Posts
I love the new SHO, but the prices on them used are crazy for a ford (and I own both a "ford" volvo, and a "ford" jaguar).

I have 168k on my 04 VR its a trooper. I've had it down for the last while fixing some stuff that was bugging me. IE when I bought the car it had cracked headlights, figuring out new intercooler setup, ect.

Looks like its time to do some sort of suspension refresh or at the very least a camber kit to off set the spring sag I have (front of the wagon is LOW!, I'm worried if I put new drop springs in it it may lift the car UP haha.)

If you can do the work your self, the Volvo is much cheaper to keep her. You have to figure in the cost of the new car, plus new car registration and taxes, interest, insurance, ect. The cost of insurance on my Volvo is so low its insane. I bet its 1/3 of what some thing like an EVO would cost to insure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
386 Posts
Funny thing you get a FORD, for a smile read this guys:
http://www.wired.com/reviews/2012/06/taurus-sho/ you sell a performance car just to get a "performance pak" my bad you so right.

Glad you keep the "R", real package.
Your point?

I needed a bigger car the s60r was way to small in the cabin for a family of 4. I am 6-3, and my 11 year old who sits behind me has no room. we go on lots of road trips, so the huge trunk is a plus.

26 mpg real worl on the highway @ 75mph is the exact same thing i got with the s60r.

The handeling is far from "cross over" as the article pus it.

My ford touch with sync has a 3 week learning curve. these reviewers all have at most a weekend with a tester. it takes 3 weks to learn it and for it to make sense.

Dont hate. go drive one. it is faster than the s60r in every possible way. and way better appointed on the inside.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top