[ThomasK]

Tomorrow I'm going to take my rear suspension apart because of a shocks inspection. I think one or both are real bad since my rear is living its own life. It sidehop like crazy when driving at bad roads and make some strange noise when going over bumps when the trunk is loaded or when I have a few passengers.

Today I prepared myself with finding the inside bolt in the trunk. Will you please confirm this is the correct bolt to remove from inside? Nothing else from inside?

These bolts and the one in the bottom of the shock from the outside? Something else?

Something else I should consider when having the suspension apart?

 

[Rick101]

Bump, looking for answers too doing this on Tuesday, after Canada day

 

[H3dlund]

It´s quite easy, but two things is a bit hard to do.

The right 4c connector is pain in the ass to disconnect, i didn´t even manage to do it. The connector is located between the rear subframe and the car body. So when i changed springs on mine i did it with the connector still connected on the right side. The left side is easy.

The other thing is to get out the coilover, i used a iron-bar-lever(?? in sweden we call it järnspett) to push the control arm down. Was easier to get it out than get it on place again, just take it easy and it shouldn´t be a problem. If you have bad patience let somebody else do it.

The bolts you marked is the right ones, Lycka till!

 

[ThomasK]

I managed to get it all out except for the connector. Dont have to care about it today since I'm just inspecting the parts.

I'm up for re-installing now witch seems to be a bit harder.

The shock is totally blown and I will have to replace it later on. Will upload video of it later.

 

[irollturbo]

I just need to get the shock out for replacement. In that case can I just remove the strut top nut in the center of the recessed area in the photo? I'm not sure if I can get to it or not.

I replaced the front struts yesterday. One was so badly blown that you could easily move the piston in and out by hand.

At this point I have both rear connectors disconnected and just have to swap the shocks today. The trick to releasing the connector is to firmly press the release tab until you feel the click. You can brace the connector against the car body to do this. Then it comes right off. I also freed the wire from all of the hold down clips to give me as much play as possible.

 

[irollturbo]

I ended up having to remove all three bolts mentioned above. One inside and two underneath. With the bottom of the shock already free the spring/shock assembly dropped down. At that point I couldn't maneuver it out of the car. I removed the shock top nut with an impact gun and this released the shock. With the shock separated I was able to remove everything.

Putting everything back in was a major headache. I used a jack under the shock, but as soon as it was compressed enough it slid out of the way and there was too much tension to get it in place. I used a single spring compressor as a cheat to compress it just enough so that it was more manageable when using the jack. Once you get the shock bolt inserted and started you are home free.

As far as the connector goes, this photo shows where I pressed to release and disconnect.

 

[ThomasK]

Here you got a video of my rear shock. Easy to move by hand... not good!

I had no problem getting the whole package out of the car by myself. Then I took it all apart to inspect and clean. The shock-connector was still connected since I did the right side of the car and I seriously cant understand how to disconnect it. The re-installing was a PITA and I had to get help from my gf and aunt who was nearby, to push the suspension down when I strangled to get the shock-package in place and finally we got it! I dont recommend doing this job all alone.

New shocks are in order. Advice for the connector is much appreciated! I'm thinking about cutting the cable to the old one and make something out of it to connect to the new one. Is that possible? Do someone have a picture of the shock-connector?

 

[ThomasK]

I found a picture of a front shock-connector in another thread. Do you know if its the same at the rear?

If thats the case its not that hard to cut the old shock cable and do something like this with the cable.

 

[irollturbo]

I finished the other side. Second one went much quicker. The spring compressor trick made reinstallation a breeze. I should mention that I have Eibach springs. These are shorter than stock and that is probably helping things as well.

You rears shock looked pretty bad. My front one was even worse than that. I'm actually a bit surprised that the handling didn't become strange.

As far as the disconnecting the harness it is truly a pain. Try practicing with the driver side harness. You should be able to get to that one more easily. Once you get the hang of it then give the passenger side another try. I had to press the release quite firmly to release it. Finger strength..no tools.

Here's a picture of the rear connector on the shock harness. It's a similar design as the front, but is smaller.

 

[ThomasK]

So you had the spring compressed when moving it back in the upper mounting? That would make sence, that its easier if the package is shorter. I'll try that when I get my new parts.

I think your aftermarket springs may have saved you, as my TME seems to have done for a while.

I have not even the slightest chance to reach the right connector, impossible! I think I will go for the home made connector and see if that works. Or else I will have someone else to connect the new one. Important with plus and minus? Will something break if I connect them wrong?

 

[burg_855t]

What lead you to think the shocks were bad? Was it clunking, felt weird on the turns what was it? I ask because i am getting that feeling and since now it's my daily driver i need it to be back on the road asap when i take it apart

Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G using Tapatalk 2

 

[ThomasK]

What lead you to think the shocks were bad? Was it clunking, felt weird on the turns what was it? I ask because i am getting that feeling and since now it's my daily driver i need it to be back on the road asap when i take it apart

Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G using Tapatalk 2

I think one or both are real bad since my rear is living its own life. It sidehop like crazy when driving at bad roads and make some strange noise when going over bumps when the trunk is loaded or when I have a few passengers. And I have replaced some bushing, end link and stuff in the rear without any difference. Last resort was the shocks and my inspection of it confirmed that its bad. Hopefully this will make my problem in the rear go away. Next thing is to inspect the front, but one thing at a time.

 

[irollturbo]

I put the package back in place and put the top bolts in loosely. I then used the spring compressor. I was only able to install the spring compressor on one side where there was room. I also used a jack with a rubber pad under the shock. I only compressed the spring enough with the spring compressor so that I had more control when using the jack. I was able to roll the jack and guide the shock onto the mount. I might have compressed the spring a cm or two with the compressor. If I still had trouble guiding the shock with the jack I just compressed the spring compressor a little bit more.

On my car I could see the passenger side connector peaking out between the gas tank and car body. I just reached up and grabbed it. There was just enough slack to let me get a few fingers on it.

 

[irollturbo]

I think one or both are real bad since my rear is living its own life. It sidehop like crazy when driving at bad roads and make some strange noise when going over bumps when the trunk is loaded or when I have a few passengers. And I have replaced some bushing, end link and stuff in the rear without any difference. Last resort was the shocks and my inspection of it confirmed that its bad. Hopefully this will make my problem in the rear go away. Next thing is to inspect the front, but one thing at a time.

In my case it was the puddle of oil under the car that tipped me off. I thought it was brake fluid at first, but nope... oil was leaking from the front strut fast enough to make a puddle on the garage. Since I can do the work myself I cam replacing both the front and rear struts/shocks.

 

[ThomasK]

I cut the cable at the right side and did my own connector, worked just fine! Left side was no problem to disconnect and use the original.

Just want to show the difference of new and old shocks.

 

[ThomasK]

Is there supposed to be some rubber or something at the lower spring seat? Now its just metall against metall. I have some screaking/scraping sound when loaded and going over big bumps. Cant say where its coming from.

 

[irollturbo]

I think that is a fine way to handle it.

 

[irollturbo]

No, there is no rubber between the spring and the lower seat. It's just metal to metal. The shock itself does have a rubber bushing as part of the lower mount. It's part of the shock, so nothing to worry about there either.

There is a rubber spring seat at the top spring mount. You might want to double check that the spring is sweated as expected. The only other thing I can think of is to double check the tightness of all the bolts.

My car is still parked. I'm waiting for the toe bars from tki. I have driven it around 20 miles and didn't hear any new noises.

Regards,
Ted

 

[ThomasK]

No, there is no rubber between the spring and the lower seat. It's just metal to metal. The shock itself does have a rubber bushing as part of the lower mount. It's part of the shock, so nothing to worry about there either.

There is a rubber spring seat at the top spring mount. You might want to double check that the spring is sweated as expected. The only other thing I can think of is to double check the tightness of all the bolts.

My car is still parked. I'm waiting for the toe bars from tki. I have driven it around 20 miles and didn't hear and new noises.

Regards,
Ted

The top spring seat looked just fine and the spring is seated as expected and every bolts are tightend. Maybe its something else thats loose or worn out... If I'm lucky the tyreshop find something tommorow when I'll get all four corners aligned and new tyres, ContiSportContact 5!

 

[ThomasK]

They didnt find anything obvious at the tyreshop, except for the missalignment.

What do you say, is it worth replacing the rear camber bushing kit to adjust this values?