SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2007 3.2L AWD and it sounds like I am going over rumble strips at 30-35 mph, any other speeds it drives fine. Had an independent shop look at it and they said that the center bearing on the rear driveshaft is trashed. Anything else that would cause this issue?

Found out that 2007-2014 the center bearing/U joint is not serviceable as the driveshaft is one complete unit. I've heard the T6 rear driveshaft is a PITA to replace. Is it as difficult to replace on the 2007+ 3.2L models? I've searched but haven't found much detail on how to go about this. Is there anything I need to watch out for when doing this?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,037 Posts
Driveshafts are not really very difficult to replace, provided one has a lift. I imagine working with the car on jack stands would be more of a hassle. If you live where it snows and salt is used on the roads, you will probably shear some exhaust bolts due to rust. Dealing with rusted exhaust bolts is never pleasant.

I don't usually associate noise with the driveshaft (propshaft?), but vibration.

If you are so inclined, pull your driveshaft out, put your exhaust back together and drive the car. If the noise goes away, there you go. If not, you just saved the cost of a new driveshaft.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
696 Posts
Just as an FYI, I was able to pull the prop shaft (I think what you are calling the rear driveshaft) on my 2007 V8 without removing or dropping any part of the exhaust. Here's the process I followed--I assume the 3.2 is probably similar if not easier:

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=193624

Getting to the bolts on the front joint is the first tricky part. I ended up having success with a stubby ratchet and working the top two bolts out before rotating the shaft (front wheels up, trans in N) and getting the next two. Rear bolts were easier with a u-joint and series of extensions. Feeding the shaft out the back is not hard provided you have the car sufficiently raised. I had the rear wheels about 1 inch off the ground and that was barely enough.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thanks for the info. I ended up having it replaced by an independent without any issues. One odd thing through was that my DTSC light was on but upon replacing the worn driveshaft, the error message disappeared and hasn't returned since. Runs great now with the new rear driveshaft.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,951 Posts
So how do you release the DS from the flange? I undid all bolts holding them in, but even with tapping the DS would not release? Maybe I just didn't have the leverage while under it using jack stands, but is there a trick? All others I have done have required a tap right on the pinion flange but these seem to cup around the whole CV instead of a center ring.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
696 Posts
So how do you release the DS from the flange? I undid all bolts holding them in, but even with tapping the DS would not release? Maybe I just didn't have the leverage while under it using jack stands, but is there a trick? All others I have done have required a tap right on the pinion flange but these seem to cup around the whole CV instead of a center ring.
I had a hard time with that part too. I think that due to the expose and heat, the flange at the front gets fused on there. But there is nothing other than those 6 bolts holding it on (same thing at the rear of the shaft). If it's still stuck after removing the bolts, it's just going to take some creative force. I can't remember what finally broke it loose for me, but you might try to find a way to lock the driveshaft in position (i.e. keep it from rotating) while someone turns one of the front wheels by hand (both off the ground). That could break it loose.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,951 Posts
That's a great idea. I refuse to be beat by a driveshaft. I'll give it a shot. Thanks!
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top