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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is why I don't like closed off style wheels.... i can't tell how the brakes are doing.... So I was swapping wheels this weekend and found the following. At first I thought "OK, a seized caliper" but both sides look identical !!!

Is this normal?



 

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Re: Rear calipers aren't "squeezing very hard" ??? (CoconutPete)

What I am seeing there is pads that are not fulling contacting the rotor. When was your last brake job? Br strange if both calipers are seized....

Landru
2001 V70 T5M 207,000 Miles
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: Rear calipers aren't "squeezing very hard" ??? (Landru)

I've only had the car for about 10K. No clue when the rears were last touched.
 

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Re: Rear calipers aren't "squeezing very hard" ??? (CoconutPete)

that is not normal. and neither is the level of rust in my opinion. you may have a rusted piston in the caliper. in conn i would bet they still use salt. and if they do one needs to rinse the underside/brakes/etc of cars regularly.

i think you would be best to get new calipers, or at lest rebuilt ones. i would not even try to clean those up. the hardware and parts are pricy i think. you might not even get core value on trade-in either.

ask jrl for his opinion and or suggestions. edit, he prob has similar conditions.

just my opinion. i have never had pads that did not make full contact/sweep of a rotor, so i think you got to deal with it from the ground up.

good luck.
 

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look seized to me also

Get rebuilt ones from Napa or who ever.

Or try to rebuild yours yourself but to me its not worth the savings and the hassle
 

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Re: (CoconutPete)

i have used fcp groton. they do very well for these parts. right now they have free shipping for orders of 99 bucks or more. i just got an e mail also offering 10% off with their "junebug" coupon code.

rear calipers were 139 new, and 58 for rebuilt with a core charge of 50 bucks each. they may not like yours though, so call them before you decide.

i would buy new, with ceramic pads, often the rebuilt come with pads though. your rotors may be ok and clean up with working caliper and new pads. that is just a thought of course.

ipd is another great source.

good luck. think of changing your brake lines too. along with a complete brake fluid flush your getting in to a complete overhaul that appears needed.

good luck.
 

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Re: (CoconutPete)

Quote, originally posted by CoconutPete »
Any recomendations for where to pick up a set of shoes, pads & rotors as a start? Fcp groton?

I really like the Akebono Euro pads, have 'em both front and back.

Before you get into rebuilt calipers, take a look at the slide pins and see how bad they look, you might just need new hardware.

Landru
 

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they will take any as a core since a siezed calipers is really damaged all it is the piston is rusted to the wall a hammer and a dremal fixes that quick
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Re: (Chilled Man)

Well if all works out I should have access to my buddys shop this weekend. Going to flush out the brake fluid and yank everything apart and see if I can clean it up to get an idea of what the hell is going on back there.

Does anyone happen to have the torque specs for the brake calipers?
 

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Believe it's 25Nm...translates to 18.5 ft. Lbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Re: (MadeInJapan)

OK. Yanked everything apart & cleaned it up today. Since it's the rear there is obviously just one piston and it still moves, so not seized.

Everything looks fine so I cleaned it up & put it back together. I have NO clue when the brake fluid is from but simply from looking at the reservoir it dos NOT look good.

I'm going to buy a power bleeder & flush the whole system out and see if that adds some pressure to the system.
 
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