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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, I know this seems like an open an shut case of needing new rear brake pads, but I thought I'd check here anyway. I will jack it and take the wheel off tonight and make sure.
When I brake at low speeds I hear a pretty horrendous grind from my rear passenger side. It seems to be only that side and pretty intense. I can actually get a pretty good look from the outside and there looks to be some solid pad remaining, so before I order up some new ones I want to make sure.

The car has 50k on it and I bought it with 25, so its hard to know if the dealer changed them. My guess is no. I'm in MN and its been cold/snowy/icy lately. Maybe something got in there? I'm just spitballing here, wanted to see if anyone has heard of this in a case where it wasn't just pads.

Thanks
 

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It is possible for some small piece of debris to get wedged between the rotor and the backing plate. But in that case, you would hear a grinding noise that is pretty constant when the tire is rotating, not just during braking. So it's probably a worn pad :(.
 

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I don't think you can see both inboard and outboard pad with the wheel on the vehicle and they almost never wear at the same rate. Many here, including myself, has had the rear brake pads replaced in the 40-50k range so it's not uncommon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I don't think you can see both inboard and outboard pad with the wheel on the vehicle and they almost never wear at the same rate. Many here, including myself, has had the rear brake pads replaced in the 40-50k range so it's not uncommon.
That's a good point, I can't see the inner pad. I am surprised it could be that much more worn though. Thanks.
 

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We had the same issue at 52k. It was the inner pad on the passenger side that was gone. Its fairly common on these cars to have the inner pad wear out faster, due to the electronic parking brake I believe.
 

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We had the same issue at 52k. It was the inner pad on the passenger side that was gone. Its fairly common on these cars to have the inner pad wear out faster, due to the electronic parking brake I believe.
Is it really the parking brake? Or are the calipers just not aligned properly so the pads don't make contact at the same time?
 

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Is it really the parking brake? Or are the calipers just not aligned properly so the pads don't make contact at the same time?
I have read on here and been told by my dealer that it is the parking brake. A Google search shows very common on all newer Volvo's. It could be calipr design. Either way it sucks, because to check the inner pad requires removal of the wheel. When mine failed it destroyed the rotors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have read on here and been told by my dealer that it is the parking brake. A Google search shows very common on all newer Volvo's. It could be calipr design. Either way it sucks, because to check the inner pad requires removal of the wheel. When mine failed it destroyed the rotors.
I ended up ordering up new pads yesterday. I am worried about the rotor, especially since its a pretty intense grinding. But I've decided to hope for the best. I guess I'll just have to get used to this for the life of the vehicle.
 

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Can you park it until you have a chance to replace the pads? It would be a shame to trash the rotors over a couple of days driving if it can be avoided.
 

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I ended up ordering up new pads yesterday. I am worried about the rotor, especially since its a pretty intense grinding. But I've decided to hope for the best. I guess I'll just have to get used to this for the life of the vehicle.
We needed new rotors, and we caught ours pretty early.
 

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We needed new rotors, and we caught ours pretty early.
+1. My 2012 needed new rotors when this happened to me. Fortunately done under warranty. Dealer said they installed defective pads that wore out within 10k of installation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·

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Unfortunately, my wife drives this vehicle during the week and she isn't exactly the best at reporting problems. So I think they're probably well trashed at this point. I did suspiciously find some cheap rotors on Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...13--1-6-6-18228--1-1---3-0&ymm=2013:volvo:s60
Manufacturers don't give you too much extra metal on the rotors these days. You can't even get many of them turned if warped much less take out groves so if you're hearing metal on metal they are probably toast. It's been a while since I looked back there but I don't remember the rear rotors being vented but that price seems normal for non-bearing rotors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Manufacturers don't give you too much extra metal on the rotors these days. You can't even get many of them turned if warped much less take out groves so if you're hearing metal on metal they are probably toast. It's been a while since I looked back there but I don't remember the rear rotors being vented but that price seems normal for non-bearing rotors.
Yeah, I didn't have any visions of getting them turned. I ordered the new rotors as well. At this point, whats done is done, so I'll wait for the UPS man, then change them out. Thanks for all the help guys.
 

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To remove the rear caliper you need to set the brakes in service mode (due
to the electric parking brake) using Volvo VIDA tools. There is a way to do it
manually described with the instructions that come with brake pads. Someone
scanned in a copy some time ago here:

http://www.gunneby.se/xc60/bromsbyte.pdf

The two bolts that hold the rear caliper on are torqued to 110 Nm (using metric here!).
OEM rotors often include new bolts for the caliper.

Looks like the rotor comes right off once the caliper is out of the way and the one
retaining bolt on the front is removed. Should be easy once the caliper is off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks for all the advice guys. I worked on this for about 8 hours yesterday and got myself into some trouble. Everything went pretty normally at first. The first problem I noticed was that the rotor is held on by a screw. The head for that screw is a large torx bit. A T50 I beleive, so I had to make a Home Depot run for that.

I did the passenger side first, as I thought I would get the tough one out of the way. Once I turned my attention the the caliper, things started to go wrong. Per the instructions, I removed the parking brake motor. I began to turn the T40 torx bit clockwise and it mas moving, but the piston was not. I tried it counter-clockwise and it indeed did move outward without effort. After a long period of trial and error, I ended up pooping the piston out. At this point, I became more obvious how it worked. But even then, I could not get the piston to depress. I ended up pulling the bleeder and having to put the piston back in without the threaded parking brake sleeve.

I want to make it clear that I realize I was over my head with this. I've done plenty of brake jobs, but underestimated this one. So I'm sure there will be some critique, which I welcome. But just realize I'm not much of a gearhead.

So I decided I would put everything back and limp it to a local Volvo specialized mechanic. Hopefully he can correctly reconstruct the caliper without costing me a fortune. One other point is that the rotor(which amazon assured me fit my vehicle) did not fit. It was too wide and the bracket would not fit back over it. So I had to put the one that I had just beat to hell to get off, back on.

I did a quick driveway test and the brakes definitely don't feel right. I clearly missed something in putting the piston back in. So I will be utilizing my 100 mile tow radius with AAA tomorrow. Normally I wouldn't give in like this. But this is the car my wife and child drive around in and I won't sleep right until a pro gives it the ok.

I'll be sticking to front brakes and oil changes for now.

Thanks again for the help guys. Helped me realize how much there is that I don't know.
 

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Thanks for all the advice guys. I worked on this for about 8 hours yesterday and got myself into some trouble. Everything went pretty normally at first. The first problem I noticed was that the rotor is held on by a screw. The head for that screw is a large torx bit. A T50 I beleive, so I had to make a Home Depot run for that.

I did the passenger side first, as I thought I would get the tough one out of the way. Once I turned my attention the the caliper, things started to go wrong. Per the instructions, I removed the parking brake motor. I began to turn the T40 torx bit clockwise and it mas moving, but the piston was not. I tried it counter-clockwise and it indeed did move outward without effort. After a long period of trial and error, I ended up pooping the piston out. At this point, I became more obvious how it worked. But even then, I could not get the piston to depress. I ended up pulling the bleeder and having to put the piston back in without the threaded parking brake sleeve.

I want to make it clear that I realize I was over my head with this. I've done plenty of brake jobs, but underestimated this one. So I'm sure there will be some critique, which I welcome. But just realize I'm not much of a gearhead.

So I decided I would put everything back and limp it to a local Volvo specialized mechanic. Hopefully he can correctly reconstruct the caliper without costing me a fortune. One other point is that the rotor(which amazon assured me fit my vehicle) did not fit. It was too wide and the bracket would not fit back over it. So I had to put the one that I had just beat to hell to get off, back on.

I did a quick driveway test and the brakes definitely don't feel right. I clearly missed something in putting the piston back in. So I will be utilizing my 100 mile tow radius with AAA tomorrow. Normally I wouldn't give in like this. But this is the car my wife and child drive around in and I won't sleep right until a pro gives it the ok.

I'll be sticking to front brakes and oil changes for now.

Thanks again for the help guys. Helped me realize how much there is that I don't know.
I give you credit for trying. I just drove right to my mechanic and forked over $500. Its better to have tried and failed, then to never have tried in my book. I have been in over my head before, its no fun.
 

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When you say that you pulled the bleeder do you mean that you opened the bleed screw? That of course would explain why the brakes aren't right - they need to be bled.

I have not had to work on the rear brakes on these cars with the electronic parking brake.
 

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Ugh I've been there my car was for 3 days while figured it out


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