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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello! I tried searching up the information on this site already and was having trouble finding the information, anyways I'm installing new 4c struts on all corners. I got the front done but am having trouble with the rear. The one bolt on the lowest part of the strut, does the strut slide out of the bottom assemble after removing that bolt? I was trying to slide it out and hit it with a rubber mallet but couldn't budge it is there a easier way? Second question, do I need to go through the trunk to loosen the upper strut mount and remove it out the bottom? I saw two bolts on the outside of the top part of the strut going into the trunk but iv'e read mixed answers on how to remove it. Some say you can remove without going through the trunk and others say just remove the two upper strut bolts. My last question is where does the 4c electrical plug go to? I was having trouble finding where it hooks up to the harness at. I'm going to work on it more tomorrow and hopefully get it done, and was hoping for some answers by tomorrow, sadly my new front strut bolt snapped off when I was tightening down with my ratchet( say sike right now:angryfire:) I have no clue how it happened and I'm supper bummed, so I just put the old one back in with new ipd parts and lowering spring. Going to call tomorrow and see if I can get it replaced. I feel like I did a disservice to everyone here lol I'm sure they can get rebuilt and I broke a brand new one, I'm so sorry :( looooool anyway thanks for the help I super appreciate the help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I only saw it for the front, I looked allover youtube but I couldn't find any that delt with the R 4c rear shock, just base model videos so I got a good idea but doesn't talk about the 4c electrical connection. And in my case I was just having other questions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I just watched the fcp euro video and its different compared to the R mounts are different and its not a Monroe strut so nothing is said about the electrical input, thanks for the help though!
 

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I have heard that it is a major pain in the ass though. Can’t be seen and can only be felt? Good luck, man.
 

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Hi! I've just done the four-c all round replacement myself so I might be able to help! Sadly I'm on my way to work right now so I'll have to make it short.

To remove the rears you remove the bolt with the bracket in the boot, then the two bolts inside the wheel well.. That brings down the whole strut assembly. The part where it bolts into the subframe/controlarm/we you call it can be a real PITA. I had to rip the old strut from the bushing then shave of as much rubber as I could and then I used a big pipe wrench to get it off the bolt.

The cable runs up the suspension arm behind the gastank, it's also a PITA to get too.. Either you use a loooong needlenose pliers or you can do what I did (better with two people) and just try and grab the harness from under and pull it toward you, then you should be able to disconnect them. If you look from the wheel well and use a lamp you will see the connection.

The left side is way easier. Feel free to ask questions! I hope this helps although I'm not able to be more precise since I'm in a hurry, good luck!
 

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This is for both sides. The right rear is a pita to unplug the 4C. Take your time and have small hands help.

1) Raise the car.
2) Remove the tire.
3) Remove the bolt connecting the bottom of the shock. It slides off a sleeve. (don’t remove yet).
4) Undo the one bolt holding the top of the shock.
5) Undo the three other bolts on top of the Shock assembly.
6) Unbolt the Control Arm (long metal part that connects to center of the subframe and control arm assembly.
7) Take a very large crow bar and pry off the shock.
8) Now use the crow bar to pull down the control arm so you can get the shock out.
9) Now the fun starts. Reach up and pinch the adaptor for the 4C and have someone pull the other end at the shock to pull it off.
10) Putting the shock assembly back in is a bear. You will need the crowbar to pull down on the suspension.


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One of my rear 4c shocks was seized pretty hard to the pin on the lower control arm. When I pried at it with a 3ft prybar, the shock came off but the lower shock mount bushing was seized to the pin on the lower control arm. I had to cut it off with an angle grinder. I had tried soaking it all in penetrating oil and heating it up and what not and it was just STUCK so if that's the case for you, cut it off, just don't cut too deep to where you cut into the pin.

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I see a lot of talk of crowbars.... The easier way to do it is to use a ratchet strap between the two lower control arms, this will unload the struts and hold the system in place while you replace.
 

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Just did my rears earlier this year. It was indeed a major PITA. The lower shock mount on my passenger side was seized really badly. I pried the shock assy off but it came off without the bushing and metal sleeve. Had to take an air saw to the bushing so I could heat up the sleeve with an oxy-acetylene torch. It eventually came off but not without a fight. I put a generous coating of anti-seize on those lower mounts when I put it back together.
Maneuvering the shock assy in and out was also very difficult. Had to ratchet down the suspension arms so that it could clear. Not to mention I had to do the whole job twice because when I put my new swaybar in one of the parking brake cables was underneath it. Of course I only noticed when I put everything back together...
 

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I see a lot of talk of crowbars.... The easier way to do it is to use a ratchet strap between the two lower control arms, this will unload the struts and hold the system in place while you replace.
That’s exactly what I did.


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