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I put the V50 on ramps last night and fumbled around each wheel to...
You really need to pull the rear wheels. Check out my photo - the sensor is completely behind the wheel and only visible from above. Also follow the wire, which snakes around the back of the trailing arm.

Don't waste your time asking the dealer why they think the DEM is bad. The DEM didn't die as part of the control arm work. It's a wire, or a sensor.

They charged $200 because that's what they do just to assign a guy, put the car on the lift, and plug into the Volvo Borg. Getting a good diagnosis at this dealer costs extra I guess.
 

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"Real" AWD Upgrade - Improved Power Split - Gen 3 Haldex

Alright guys, just did the 33504-01 off of a 2007 XC90 3.2. I immediately threw an anti-skin service warning light. However, me and my friend both drove the car and felt it “pushing” through corners much like a Golf R. I’ve seen some people say anti-skid means it’s not working but some people have said it does work. I’m having a little trouble condensing this thread because it’s a lot of debate and hundreds of posts. So,

- I need to put it on a lift to verify it’s working completely but it feels like it is.

-Can I expect this mod to shorten the life of/obliterate my angle gear? Especially when I add a Hilton Stage 1.

Anyone got any long term updates on this? I notice that there were some mentions of extreme tire wear. Has anyone had to replace tires with extreme irregularity?

EDIT: VIDA has informed me that the brake module and the car itself are unable to communicate with the DEM, which means that the brake module issue is causing my fault.

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EDIT: VIDA has informed me that the brake module and the car itself are unable to communicate with the DEM, which means that the brake module issue is causing my fault.
When transplanting the DEM, the CANbus protocol it speaks is not compatible with the rest of the car. Any module that was looking for the old DEM will therefore complain. Depending on the difference(s), different behaviors may result. For example, if your car has DSTC, it may react differently from one that doesn't have it, since DSTC looks to coordinate with the DEM.

When you test, one important thing to check for is that the DEM disengages when you put the car in reverse. Remember, just because the BCM doesn't see the DEM, the DEM may still be seeing the BCM and other modules. At least, that is what you will want, and what this reverse test will show.

What "brake module issue"?
 

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"Real" AWD Upgrade - Improved Power Split - Gen 3 Haldex

When transplanting the DEM, the CANbus protocol it speaks is not compatible with the rest of the car. Any module that was looking for the old DEM will therefore complain. Depending on the difference(s), different behaviors may result. For example, if your car has DSTC, it may react differently from one that doesn't have it, since DSTC looks to coordinate with the DEM.

When you test, one important thing to check for is that the DEM disengages when you put the car in reverse. Remember, just because the BCM doesn't see the DEM, the DEM may still be seeing the BCM and other modules. At least, that is what you will want, and what this reverse test will show.

What "brake module issue"?
It’s a DSTC issue. The CEM, DEM, and BCM all communicate in order to make DSTC work, it seems, so the BCM is saying it doesn’t know where the DEM is which seems to be throwing a constant warning light, I’m guessing, that I can’t reset. The module ceased functioning yesterday afternoon :( so I may look out for an earlier V8 module and see if a 22xxx or something works. This one only cost me $11.99 lol.


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Yes, if you have DSTC, and the DEM is not responding, you'll get BCM-0094 and this will trigger the warning shortly after powering up the car. There's no issue in the BCM however, this is the BCM raising the warning that it can't provide DSTC.
 

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That’s unfortunate. Oh well, it’s not like the car isn’t AWD without the module. The extra performance would’ve been fun though. Hopefully an older module will work for this. 2007 is kind of a weird S40 year.
 

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Yes, if you have DSTC, and the DEM is not responding, you'll get BCM-0094 and this will trigger the warning shortly after powering up the car. There's no issue in the BCM however, this is the BCM raising the warning that it can't provide DSTC.
I don't have DSTC but still have BCM-0094
 

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I don't have DSTC but still have BCM-0094
Yep, that can happen too. "Is what it is" since the car and especially later-year components just weren't coded for this kind of mixing and matching.
 

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Got another data point for this thread:

2006 V50 T5 AWD M66 w/ DSTC button down by shifter
Haldex module 5Wp22228-02 from a 2005 V8 XC90

Swapped it in, had "anti-skid service required" message immediately on startup 😞

Was worth a shot. If anyone's interested in giving this unit ago, I'll send it to ya for $75 shipped
 

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Cheers! We'll see how it goes in my '05 S40 (M66, no DSTC button).
Follow-up on this.

TL;DR: I lost AWD.


When I pulled off the stock controller, the solenoid was tough to remove. I had to use pliers and a cloth so I didn't damage the housing.
Then, the correct solenoid was too small for the port and kept falling out. I ended up assembling the new controller on the bench and then installing the controller+pressure sensor + solenoid as a single unit. I may have lost 50 or 100cc of fluid during this process since I didn't have the foresight to plug the hole back up with the original solenoid.

When making the swap, has anyone needed to swap o-rings over between solenoids or anything like that?

The part number on the original solenoid is (first line) 22.100 220 (second line) R812 B23. [edited again to add: this looks like the same part number as others with the gen3 haldex controller, so I'm going to swap this original one back in and see what happens]

On the positive side, I didn't get any CELs. :D

edit to add that the following may be what I'm experiencing. I'll need to pull the system apart and swap o-rings and try again... oh, and add more fluid :D :
JK900 said:
Turns out the O-ring in the smaller solenoid was the culprit and haldex fluid leaked pass the switch&washer. Swapped out the O-ring from my old solenoid and stopped the leak, still running like FWD. Topped up the haldex with new fluid and finally the back end broke loose with a heavy foot. Here's my message, make sure there is enough fluid in the haldex housing, otherwise the swap will not work properly.



Edit again to add:
The part number on the new solenoid is 22.100 220 // SD21 B23. I've taken the new solenoid out of the haldex unit and put the old one back in to see if it changes the behavior at all.

Another edit to add that I did not get AWD back but I'm going to wait until I get some Haldex fluid before I take it apart again... That seems like the best course of action now since I've lost about 200cc of fluid from the Haldex unit.
 

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Yes, no lights other than the normal "traction control" lights when both front tires were spinning... (facepalm)
I'm optimistic about the lack of fluid being the culprit as well. :D
(I'm going to do a full flush and filter change if it looks straight forward enough, while I'm in there)

When I get new fluid in I'll put the new solenoid back in with the old solenoid's o-rings and go from there.


No lights is a good sign. I'm optimistic topping up your fluid will do the trick
 

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The solenoids are all the same (for gen2/3) - just the pressure sensor varies depending on which version gen3

Did you lose one of the rings when you removed the original solenoid? There are three in total. That would seem to be the only reason it would be 'loose'

80bar sensor


40bar

 

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The solenoids are all the same (for gen2/3) - just the pressure sensor varies depending on which version gen3
Ah! Thank you for that tidbit.

Did you lose one of the rings when you removed the original solenoid? There are three in total. That would seem to be the only reason it would be 'loose'
I did not notice the o-ring at the base of the solenoid for the original solenoid, which makes me think it is stuck up inside the Haldex diff.
The solenoid from muppetman342 has the o-ring at the base of it, and quite possibly I had them stacked one on top of the other which is why it was loose.
I have the car at the shop because the fill plug was stuck and I didn't want to bung it up with my ham-handedness.

The kicker is that the entire haldex controller filled up with oil as a result potentially breaking the controller (will do some tests when I get home from the shop). Does someone have the resistances across the pins of the chip so that I can confirm? I really doubt oil would have broken anything in the controller because oil doesn't conduct electricity, but what do I know. :D
 

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A 2005 v8, and a 2005 T6 XC90 at the local scrap yard. Only the V8 should have the haldex for the awd we need right?
 

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What a shame not many V8s were sold in germany. You can hardly find any for sale, never saw one on a scrapyard ever. Its too hard to get hands on a haldex controller which might work.
 
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