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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just installed my intercooler setup and now noticed that my radiator fan is not working. I checked the fan connection, I get 12v to the plug and it is connected properly to the fan assembly. Anyone had this issue after installing their intercooler?
 

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I just installed my intercooler setup and now noticed that my radiator fan is not working. I checked the fan connection, I get 12v to the plug and it is connected properly to the fan assembly. Anyone had this issue after installing their intercooler?

Check any loose wiring in the socket plug. Maybe run a voltage detection pen (cheap at any hardware store) and test the currents along the wires from the source
 

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Check ground too.
 

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Did you let the car warm up? Fan doesn't run all the time.

Besides the 11.8 volt leg, I believe there are a couple more that come on with a 2 speed relay.

Keep in mind the ECU can switch on voltage to legs you don't see when you tested it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I took the car for a short drive, long enough for it to completely warm up. With the Ac on at lights the temperature of the air and the coolant temperature both rise. almost into the red before i shut it down. The fan wasn't on after i shut it down like it normally would, all that leads me to believe its not running at any point. I have removed the fan, is there a way to cycle power to the fan for testing? there were no loose connections when I removed it.
 

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I took the car for a short drive, long enough for it to completely warm up. With the Ac on at lights the temperature of the air and the coolant temperature both rise. almost into the red before i shut it down. The fan wasn't on after i shut it down like it normally would, all that leads me to believe its not running at any point. I have removed the fan, is there a way to cycle power to the fan for testing? there were no loose connections when I removed it.
Don't drive the car until you get it fixed. The temp gauge isn't going to start rising until it has reached a very high heat to begin with. If it hits red, you're probably going to damage something very expensive.
 

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Did you disconnect the battery before installing? If you touch anything metal (e.g., the throttle body clamp, metal tube, wrench) to the starter solenoid and the back of the fan at the same time, it will short out your fan.
 

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DO NOT DRIVE THIS ANYMORE UNTIL IT'S FIXED or you WILL blow up your engine
It doesn't take long (ask me how I know)!
 

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I have removed the fan, is there a way to cycle power to the fan for testing? there were no loose connections when I removed it.
I tracked down some more info and diagrams for you. Check the fuse diagram against the R manual. This is for a s60 T5, but may vary slightly for the R... but I don't think so.

"Take the lead from the positive terminal to the red wire and then the green wire – one at a time. The fan is a two speed fan and one wire will run it in high speed and the other will run it in low speed. Off the top of my head I can’t remember which wire color is which speed but there is a distinct speed difference.

The black wire is ground"





also,

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah, Im thinking I shorted out the fan. I did disconnect the battery, but i noticed that the interooler pipe is almost touching the starter, and the intercoolr pipe was touching the metal ring on the power steering house which was touching the fan housing. I am betting any amount of engine movement could have allowed them all make a connection at some point. i would still like to test the fan for confirmation. The fan plug from the harness has 3 connections 1 - large black, 1 large red, and one small purple. On the fan side there is 1- large black, 1- large tan, 1- small red, 1 small yellow. It appear the purple attache to the yellow wire. I am not sure how to test.

I will not be driving until the issue is fixed, it looks like ill need to wrap the hose in that section with some sort of barrier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thank for the diagrams. Looks like violet is the command voltage from the ecu. Does it happen to say if it is Pulse width modulated? or maybe just a varied voltage?
 

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I'm guessing it varies with the commands sent to the Relay fan module, then to the fan.

I believe from what I've read, you have to verify the fan motor's fuses first, then verify that the fan motor works by directly hooking it up to a 12v power source. If the fan comes on, then you have to trace the voltage back though the route using a voltage meter.

According to the diagram, it shows that you have a temp sensor and a A/C pressure sensor that tell the ECU to send that violet line power. I would assume the 12V you see is conected to the fan module, but not the fan. I would guess you are either seeing a blown fan motor, popped module or a sensor unplugged. Surprised you haven't seen a code yet.... which maybe say's your modules are ok. I guess you need to verify the fan motor and that will tell the rest of the story.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Just an update. Replaced the fan motor and all is good. I put an extra silicone tube around the section that could contact the starter and wrapped the other hose with electrical tape, so it should prevent any future issues.
 

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Just an update. Replaced the fan motor and all is good. I put an extra silicone tube around the section that could contact the starter and wrapped the other hose with electrical tape, so it should prevent any future issues.
I did the same with my FMIC, wrapping all relevant points with half a roll of electrical tape. 3 months later, all good.
 
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