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Discussion Starter #1
It was bound to happen some time...

I brought my R in for routine service this week. I had them do the 52,5k mile service on my car (although it only has 49k on the odo) but I also asked them to look into the service messages that were popping up (the one for the Alarm Service and the one for Low Brake Fluid).

Here's what they came back with today...

- Alarm module is bad: $560 for a new one.
- Brake light is coming on because the rear brakes are below min pads and rotors: $700 for new rear rotors and pads.
- Coming up on a coolant flush - $79 to do this.
- Leaking gear oil - $980 to reseal.
- Front upper spring seats are shot - $680 for new ones.

Basically, they're quoting me a buck short of $3K to fix it all. How crazy or fair is that?

The R is more or less my Winter car so I'm not in any rush to get the work done...although I'd rather not have it out of service for any real length of time. And, that leads me to my real problem: time. I don't really have any time to do it myself. I know most of the work is pretty straight forward. I've swapped out rotors/pads and springs/shocks before and the coolant flush is a no-brainer. What about the cost they quoted to reseal the angle gear?

Thankfully, this is the first time I've actually had to spend any money on it during my 7+ years of ownership. Unfortunately, however, the darn thing has just shy of 50k miles on it which, to me, is not much. It's also been very well cared for. Anyway, if I go down the DIY path I'll start researching parts costs. If not, any suggestions on a good Volvo shop in the Fairfield County, CT area?

Thanks!
-Eric
 

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I'm sorry for your misfortune, but all of the things you listed would cost maybe $650 EXCEPT for the leaking gear oil (i'm guessing angle gear?) in which case it would be an additional $150 or so. So you could do all of those things for about $800 on your own. That still sounds like alot, but it's all cost of parts and we're comparing it to just shy of $3,000. You could get lucky like me and knock $194 off of that and get an alarm siren from a junkyard like I did for $6.

If you have to do it at a shop, then find a local euro shop, or volvo specialist shop if you have one. You might not be as lucky on the volvo specialist, but here in Chicago there are a few.
 

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The spring seat quote is particularly stupid. Part (even volvo oem) is about $40. Then maybe 1hr labor each side. Its front shocks - not rocket science.

And I just ran a quote from tasca on a full front and rear brake job (pads & rotors) which came to 600.

And they're not gonna do a flush, they'll drain & fill and it will take 5 minutes while they're doing other stuff. So at least don't do coolant there.
 

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The spring seat quote is particularly stupid. Part (even volvo oem) is about $40. Then maybe 1hr labor each side. Its front shocks - not rocket science.
Agreed, the spring seat quote is completely nuts, at least double what it should be. Spring seats are not difficult to replace. Do they intend to also do strut mount bearings and bump stops while they're in there? That could make the quote close to reasonable.

Other quotes also seem high, and a slow enough leak on the angle gear only needs to be topped up every six months to 1 year. Mine has been seeping for the past year, and in that time with routine checks, I have had to add very little, less than 1/8 of a liter over the entire year. I'm at 173k on the original angle gear and just a week ago replaced the collar connecting the angle gear to the transmission for the first time in the car's history.
 

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That seems incredibly high. If time is an issue I would start looking for a local Indy which, could easily knock off a grand maybe more.
 

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...service messages that were popping up (the one for the Alarm Service and the one for Low Brake Fluid).

Here's what they came back with today...

- Brake light is coming on because the rear brakes are below min pads and rotors: $700 for new rear rotors and pads.
Is this bothering nobody else? Doesn't brake fluid low signify failing slave if this is a manual? And would a brake light really come on from low pads/rotors?? Also, 50k miles and rear rotors already??
 

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I would try to do a few things on your own and anything else hit an Indy shop. Fairfield Count Motorsports is a great shop. They should be less than the dealer but probably not the cheapest guys in town. The do great work. I drove from Milford to have suspension stuff down when I had my Audi and they gave me a loaner as well. (nothing fancy)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hi guys, sorry for not responding earlier but I've been traveling. Thanks for all of the great responses. Yes, my car is a manual and I was wondering about the slave, too, but I'm not real excited about the thought of pulling the tranny just to see if that could be the cause of the problem.

I emailed an Indy last night and they were surprised by some of the quote. He asked me if I could bring the car in to take a look at it...which is fine, but I need to make sure he's not going to charge me to confirm the same crap I've already been told. I will call around to see what some others says. Thanks for the suggestions.

Funny thing about the spring seats is that I had them replaced by Raw Bear (a Volvo shop in NJ) when they did my TME springs about 5 years ago. The car barely had 20k on it then so all 49k miles aren't even on the parts that the dealer is suggesting I need replaced. In their defense, however, Robert from Raw Bear told me that he wasnt surprised they were shot with such low mileage because he said he'd seen many failing at low mileage. Go figure.

-Eric
 

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If at a dealer, they love routine service visits so they can see what else they can address for you "while it's on the lift". The cynic in me also sees this as an opportunity to try to interest you in trading it in on a newer model.

I had one of those visits a couple of years ago at my dealer and they recommended 2 grand worth of repairs (including leaking angle gear) only to their surprise the car was under CPO warranty and all the work was covered!

If it were me I'd get a second (or third) opinion on the work and once you know what work the car really needs maybe space it out over a few months based on priority.

What we see with these cars is that while mileage is certainly a factor, "age" ages them as well.
 

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Is this bothering nobody else? Doesn't brake fluid low signify failing slave if this is a manual? And would a brake light really come on from low pads/rotors?? Also, 50k miles and rear rotors already??
I'm at 147k and still have the original rear rotors on my VR. The fronts lasted to about 120k. I would really press them for more information like the measurements on the rears as well as each quoted item. I'm sure there is an indy shop that can give another estimate for the work. I would get another quote for the work, then stage it to repair the most critical item first.

I would suggest talking to the service manager about the inflated cost. He may be able to make some adjustments. Some dealerships are just that way, inflated cost and poor workmanship. The good ones are few and far between.
 

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- Alarm module is bad: $560 for a new one.

Find a used one from erie, probably not more than 100 bucks

- Brake light is coming on because the rear brakes are below min pads and rotors: $700 for new rear rotors and pads.

$250 in parts MAX and $100 (at least for me) to do this.
It's one hour deal if there are no e-brake issues


- Coming up on a coolant flush - $79 to do this.
- Leaking gear oil - $980 to reseal.

Normal retail, I pay $600


- Front upper spring seats are shot - $680 for new ones.

As was said $80 for both plus 2 hours install plus an alignment

ANY half assed mechanic can do this
 
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