SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner
41 - 60 of 294 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,445 Posts
cool project!!
I was thinking about combining these lights

[/IMG]

Only thing that's holding me back are the crazy prizes and the possibility that it won't work :p
I have a pair of these lights for RHD [JDM / UK / AUDM] but they're both blown and need new bulbs + ballasts.
If you know a way how to remove the front plastic lens without breaking the assembly, please let me know !
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,108 Posts
You can remove the lens by either baking the assy in the oven for a short period or using a blow dryer or heat gun to heat up the sealant around the lens and slowly lift the lens off the assy. At least this is the case with other newer headlights from Volvo. I've done this to my V50 twice now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
935 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,108 Posts
Blow dryer worked great for me. If the adhesive is too brittle for heat to have an effect I'd suggest finding something that can break down the dried out adhesive while not causing damage to the plastic, some sort of plastic safe solvent.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,711 Posts
Discussion Starter · #47 · (Edited)
Latest progress. Not sure if you guys understand what I'm trying to achieve. But I'm embedding another 4" ccfl lighting into the widened bezel nearest to the grille area as a DRL /city driving light. Since the DRL reflector is being replaced I will be putting in a LED substitute into the 9006XS bulb location. Anyone know how to cancel out the bulb out message if there is one?



Here is about 2hrs of more filler and sanding. Also started to cut into the back to start the light opening.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,108 Posts
Should be able to cancel a bulb out waring by fitting a resistor (not sure what size you need) across the contacts where the bulb would be. To determine the size of resistor you'll need to know the wattage of the bulb and use Ohms law to calculate the resistance the bulb has in the circuit then find a resistor that is x wattage (same wattage as the bulb) and y resistance (resistance you calculated for the bulb) and install it in place.

Direct formula: R=Vsquared/P (where r is resistance in ohms, v is voltage and p is wattage)


Indirect formula:
I=P/V (P=power in watts, E=Voltage (12v) this will give you the I current in Amps
then plug the I into the below
R=E/I (E=Voltage (12V), I=current in Amps (that you calculated) this will give you the resistance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,419 Posts
Should be able to cancel a bulb out waring by fitting a resistor (not sure what size you need) across the contacts where the bulb would be. To determine the size of resistor you'll need to know the wattage of the bulb and use Ohms law to calculate the resistance the bulb has in the circuit then find a resistor that is x wattage (same wattage as the bulb) and y resistance (resistance you calculated for the bulb) and install it in place.

Direct formula: R=Vsquared/P (where r is resistance in ohms, v is voltage and p is wattage)

Indirect formula:
I=P/V (P=power in watts, E=Voltage (12v) this will give you the I current in Amps
then plug the I into the below
R=E/I (E=Voltage (12V), I=current in Amps (that you calculated) this will give you the resistance.
Good luck with that

Putting 55w through a resistor will only produce HEAT up the ying yang, even with power resistors that are heat sinked! You could totally go this route but I wouldln't...I would like having a car with bulb error messages rather than a ball of fire with tires.

The real way to do this would figuring out the "shunts" that volvo has built in to the CEM. There is already a mod for non-xenon cars when fitting xenon bulbs/ballasts. I think maybe doing both options (resistor AND shunt drill out) MIGHT work but def needs experimentation.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,711 Posts
Discussion Starter · #50 · (Edited)
Right, and resistors are something I'm not really interested in venturing into. Worst case scenario, I'll create a sealed metal cylinder, paint that black, and shove the 9006XS bulb into it then glue that to the back of the bulb cap. LOL!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,560 Posts
Isn't it 35W?

Anyway, I was thinking back in the day that you could try to use a smaller bulb (not 35W) and see if it throws a code. Even if you had to use a 35W sucker, you could mount it towards the back of the housing to "backlight" the entire thing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,651 Posts
1.21 gigawatts
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,108 Posts
You could use a load resistor and mount the resistor to a metal surface, if the heat issue is still a concern then find a few smaller wattage load resistors and mount in different locations....obvioulsy not as clean a look but I'd rather do this than hack up a CEM and risk buying a new one. That or find a way to put the load resistor in the socket and not touching anything, works fine in the light without causing heat issues only measurable difference between the light and a resistor is the absence of light.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,711 Posts
Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Alright. Latest updates for today. In car testing with all the internals +leveling motors + electronics + ballast and bulbs. Mainly tackling the high-beam bi-xenon setup and trying to see if I can tap the highbeam signal line. Lets just say... SUCCESS!

I basically dismantled EVERYTHING to have only the bracket, the leveling motors- basically every electronic piece minus the housing, shroud lense and other bracket related mechanisms.

Here are the pictures.


Everything wired up.


Behind the projector using the stock ballast and harness.


Closer look.


Projector Bi-xenon high-beam actuator wire hooked up to the Purple wire (highbeam) and Ground wire.


Where the wires are connected to. I'll be soldering hardlines to this wire from behind the harness with removable waterproof connectors. My other option is to wire this within the light housing itself.



So here are the results with the system running by pulling the stalks behind the wheel, everything is being controlled by the car.

DRL:


LowBeam:


Projector on Low-beam


Projector on HIGH Beam!


Most importantly! NO ERRORS! :D :)
 
41 - 60 of 294 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top