[lookforjoe]

Thanks! Any idea what I can do about the window trim? Is it a replaceable part or is it part of the window?

Do these cars need the adjustable camber plates as well?

Don't know about the trim. Glass is all bonded, so the trim is just trim as far as I know. You can look up the parts here (Volvo US website) , that will give you a sense of how it is attached.

I haven't found the need for camber plates, however I don't like slammed rides, and with just the eibach springs, the ride height drop is still within adjustable alignment specs.

 

[CYB3RBYTE]

I plan on keeping the suspension stock as the roads around me suck at the moment. Only thing is a get a slight clunk over bumps, my thoughts are control arms or the sway bar end links?

So the C30 doesn't have the same camber issues as the C70? I remember my dad's C70 had really bad camber, where it would begin to cup the tires on the inside if we didn't align it every so often.

 

[lookforjoe]

I plan on keeping the suspension stock as the roads around me suck at the moment. Only thing is a get a slight clunk over bumps, my thoughts are control arms or the sway bar end links?

So the C30 doesn't have the same camber issues as the C70? I remember my dad's C70 had really bad camber, where it would begin to cup the tires on the inside if we didn't align it every so often.

What year C70? If it's the early one, the entire platform is different. In any event, there are no inherent camber issues.

First thing to look at would be end links. Then possibly struts/shocks, top mounts and then control arms, depending on your mileage & how the car was used.

 

[CYB3RBYTE]

What year C70? If it's the early one, the entire platform is different. In any event, there are no inherent camber issues.

First thing to look at would be end links. Then possibly struts/shocks, top mounts and then control arms, depending on your mileage & how the car was used.

91k, the car was used mainly as a highway commute vehicle. The C70 was a P1, 2011.

 

[rocketscience55]

I'd check your sway bar end links. They tend to clunk over bumps. You can check the fronts by reaching in with a pry bar or something like it and push up on the lower end link ball joint to check for play.

Also I'd go for the stock all weather floor mats because I think they might be cheaper than WeatherTech, I liked the stock ones I had in my C30 a lot.

 

[CYB3RBYTE]

Okay, got the coolant expansion tank in today after fiddling with the connections from the previous Mazda tank of unknown model origin. It's a temporary setup but it will hold for now, the new OEM hoses are coming tomorrow night.

Also found some solid lug nuts that my dad bought for the C70. Are these a good thing to put on? I have yet to take a wheel off the car, probably will change once I tackle the AC clutch shim.

 

[psy]

There is another engine mount on the drivers side if you haven't changed that one yet it might clear up the rest of your issues with how the car feels in addition to the torque mount.

 

[CYB3RBYTE]

There is another engine mount on the drivers side if you haven't changed that one yet it might clear up the rest of your issues with how the car feels in addition to the torque mount.

I will have to get a mount, I hear the electric Ford Focus mount is the one to use. You're speaking of the torque mount right?

Got the correct coolant expansion tank hoses in today, I replaced the old ones, with not too much mess. These cars are significantly easier to work in or around the engine bay than P80 Volvo's, but I haven't done a timing belt yet so we'll see how I feel after that haha.

I don't know if I'm stupid, or if this connector is terrible, but it was not easy to get off!

 

[psy]

No your referring to the Torque mount for the transmission, I'm referring to the left side (driver side) engine mount its located under the battery box. Also yes those connectors can be a pain when they don't want to corporate.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-engine-mount-31316498

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techar...Engine_and_Transmission_Mount_Replacement.htm

 

[CYB3RBYTE]

No your referring to the Torque mount for the transmission, I'm referring to the left side (driver side) engine mount. Also yes those connectors can be a pain when they don't want to corporate.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-engine-mount-31316498

How difficult is it to replace that mount?

 

[psy]

How difficult is it to replace that mount?

I updated my post with a picture for you but its easy just make sure you have a jack with a block of wood under the engine. Also the timing belt is easy here follow this guide it will help you a lot, you don't need the special locking toll to do the job either just mark everything with a sharpie so you timing marks line up. The biggest pita I ran into was getting the damn water pump out, also might be a good time to just changing your belts and tensioner on the A/C and Alternator if since your already there.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techar...acement/77-ENGINE-Timing_Belt_Replacement.htm

 

[lookforjoe]

How difficult is it to replace that mount?

Just remove the battery & battery tray. That part takes longer than it does to undo the trans mount.

The T/belt is a PITA compared to the P80. Requires raising & lowering the motor a couple/few times to access everything. Still, just another white block besides that, and easier to setup than the t/belt with 99-00 Cam gears..

 

[CYB3RBYTE]

I’ve heard from many people that you don’t have to lock the cams, but that seems kind of dangerous on these cars...

 

[lookforjoe]

I've heard from many people that you don't have to lock the cams, but that seems kind of dangerous on these cars...

Oh, I lock the cams. The old IPD whiteblock 4- pin tool works just fine

 

[psy]

I didn't lock the cam's, I mean if you have the toll just makes easier.

 

[CYB3RBYTE]

My friend made a tool, so I may just borrow his when I do it. It’s 120k or 10 years on these cars right?

Also just to ask one last time, the camber on the rear wheels of this car shouldn’t be an issue right? Or is it eventually going to cause the tires to cup?

The 303 rubber seal restore is coming in next week, as is the back to black, so I plan to try that stuff on the trim and seals.

 

[CYB3RBYTE]

Started the day off right by restoring the window trim. Someone on the forum recommended masking off the car, then using a magic eraser to remove the rougher surface of the trim (effectively sanding it a little), cleaning off the residue left from that, and then applying the 303.



After two applications after drying completely, and wiping off excess, I am happy to say it has done something, and we'll see how it holds up in the coming days to stop the trim from "shedding" again.

 

[CYB3RBYTE]

Making some small progress, I now have the headlights close to my standards, I'd love for some brighter but recommendations for them, HID wise. Also discovered these cars are good for unloading groceries in the rain.



Finally got my plates! Although the plate office messed up my order, they were supposed to be custom plates! And you can't call them other than Tuesdays before 4pm....



Took a really nice picture of her too, thought I'd share. A/C fix and perhaps a windshield replacement are in the near future.

 

[CYB3RBYTE]

I attempted to re-shim the A/C clutch yesterday, and it didn't go well. My clutch puller tool was not doing anything, and when I used screwdrivers, I bent the clutch and pulley up. Now the pulley sounds wonderful, so I'm going to replace the compressor.

Any ideas on if you have to get oil with the compressor when you recharge the system? And how many pounds of R134a do these use?

 

[V50unicorn]

Look on Ebay for a clutch. I got a new (non OEM) clutch for around $60 and it works fine.