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Quicksilver Saga, 2011 C30 M66 Revival

23508 Views 263 Replies 22 Participants Last post by  CYB3RBYTE
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Hey everyone. I've been on Swedespeed for a while, but normally in the P80 forums. After getting interest in selling my 850 R, I figured it was time to move to a newer, smaller Volvo. I had been looking for manual cars FOREVER, and there were very few in my area, if any. Finally I happened upon a M66 2011 C70 with only 91,000 miles, in my area, with a book of records. I went to look at the car on a Thursday, and bought it the next day. Big thanks to C30 in WI, the previous owner, he took excellent care of this vehicle and I plan to do the same.

Here is a quick hatch photo I took after getting back with the car:



This is my first manual car (although I've driven friend's cars before) so any tips on how to drive these cars to avoid clutch wear would be appreciated. I don't want to do a clutch anytime soon lol.

Immediately I noticed the cabin air temp sensor was super loud, so I took it apart and blew it out, and after reinstalling it, it's pretty quiet. After that, I went to work on removing the piece of paper that was stuck in the CD drive. After getting it out, reassembling the console, and testing it, I'm happy to report it works perfectly.







Is there anything I can do to remove the green color from the CD slot?

Things to do on the car: I feel as though this car needs motor mounts, the shifts are a little clunky unless you completely baby the clutch. It also makes some good clunks over bumps, don't know if these are related or they are suspension based. Also would like to figure out how to get these spots off of the trim plastic. Any thoughts are appreciated!

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Volvo should have used 320mm on all T5's and D5's regardless of FWD or AWD. And leave the 300's for 2.4i's and similar power engines. Smaller brakes (278mm IIRC), should have been left for the 4 cylinder variants.

In the case of the C70, the extra weight they have is enough justification for the 320mm, regardless of the engine.
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Got the calipers in from a forum member (thank again) and got them all cleaned up, and painted. I went with silver as I thought it would be the best match for the car.

Automotive tire Font Gas Tints and shades Automotive exterior


Wood World Wall Flooring Font
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What paint did you use?
What paint did you use?

It was super easy to use, however you only have about 4 hours of working time with it, so you have to get it all on in one go.
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It was super easy to use, however you only have about 4 hours of working time with it, so you have to get it all on in one go.
Thank you!, does it have a resistant finish? on mine I used VHT caliper spray paint, and it's somewhat "resistant", but it wasn't enough to resist scratches from the retaining spring when I installed it. It holds fine with a plastic brush though.....
Thank you!, does it have a resistant finish? on mine I used VHT caliper spray paint, and it's somewhat "resistant", but it wasn't enough to resist scratches from the retaining spring when I installed it. It holds fine with a plastic brush though.....
I had a similar experience with VHT. Did get a really nice color though - the R blue. Looks great even if they are only 300s LOL
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So, after over a year of searching, I finally found the correct color spoiler for the car! Looking forward to installing it and finally completing the majority of the cosmetic upgrades I’ve done to the car.

Does anyone have any advice for doing so? I know there is an official document for install from Volvo but was looking for more tips and tricks? How difficult is the adhesive on the old small spoiler? And can I just use 3M window weld as the adhesive For the new one?
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Got another goodie in for the C30, this will really match the aluminum trim I got last year very well. Have to wait for the blanking plate for the nav buttons to come from Oak Park...

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Got another goodie in for the C30, this will really match the aluminum trim I got last year very well. Have to wait for the blanking plate for the nav buttons to come from Oak Park...

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Mine also has the sport steering wheel. And the aluminum accent, and I love it.

If you like the aluminum accents, I suggest you to pick up a set of aluminum pedals as well to complete the look.

I bought a set from aliexpress a few years ago for ~$36. And IMHO, they really compliment the rest of the trim:



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Installed the spoiler last night. There are not any good write-ups of this online, so I’ll detail my process.

First step is to stick a trim removal tool in the middle of the spoiler, between the bottom black part and the top painted or black cover. Remove that, and the two T25 torx, and the three push pin trim clips.

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Pull down the inner roof hatch trim, where the rear interior dome lamp is, then loosen the passenger side rear trim. You’ll see the connectors for the washer fluid and third brake lamp, disconnect those.

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Afterwards, you’ll need a razor blade to remove the leftover adhesive from the old spoiler. I used a heat gun to help with removal of it.

Looks more like a V50 without any spoiler!

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Afterwards, proceed in reverse, and do not overtighten the T25’s used to bolt the spoiler to the glass. They will shear off easily…

End results:

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Steering wheel is next up for install, but the blanking plate is stuck at the distribution center over the weekend.
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Navigation blanking plate showed up, got the wheel installed. I used this person's video on YouTube, highly recommend his other content as well:

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Really straight forward process, but tip I have is to MAKE SURE YOU COUNTERHOLD THE WHEEL WHEN UNFASTENING THE 15MM STEERING SHAFT BOLT. I almost ruined the hold slot in the clockspring...

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As you can see I'm also fixing the cracked plastic on my shift boot inlay... loctite professional liquid superglue is your friend :).

With that, the car is really starting to come together visually. The sport wheel also feels MUCH better when driving, and its easier for me (6'3") to get in and out.

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Re-lubed the clutch return spring as well, unfortunately that did not solve the intermittent squeak I get. I assume it would be best to replace the spring soon anyways...

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Re-lubed the clutch return spring as well, unfortunately that did not solve the intermittent squeak I get. I assume it would be best to replace the spring soon anyways...
it might not be the case for you, but i've found that i get an annoying squeak sometimes as well....figured out that it was the rubber soles of my shoes against the rubber ribs of the pedals 😂
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Who doesn’t love snow! Thinking about removing the roof rack as my fuel mileage has definitely taken a dip.

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What paint did you use?
Silver.....lol
Who doesn’t love snow! Thinking about removing the roof rack as my fuel mileage has definitely taken a dip.

View attachment 176771
Yeah, probably what's causing my low mileage as well.....
What paint did you use?
Silver.....lol
……..No s**t, Sherlock!
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Did some maintenance today, changed back to Liqui-Moly 0W-40 thanks to FCP's warranty. Also changed the transmission fluid to RedLine MTF, it is butter smooth, I'd definitely recommend it.

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Performed the 320mm big brake kit upgrade for the fronts as well, using Zimmerman rotors and Akebono ceramic pads. Replaced the hoses with stainless steel variants, too. Very happy with the results, well worth it and even at stock power levels it makes a hell of a difference.

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Stock pads were getting low and had a squeak while turning, so glad to get the whole system renewed. Finally have enough braking force to match the Michelin PS AS/4s.

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Addendum to the last post, if you are doing this modification and do not intend to replace your dust shields, you will need to modify the old dust shield by removing the curved "ears" and the two extrusions at the top and bottom of the shield so that they don't contact the rotor and caliper.
Addendum to the last post, if you are doing this modification and do not intend to replace your dust shields, you will need to modify the old dust shield by removing the curved "ears" and the two extrusions at the top and bottom of the shield so that they don't contact the rotor and caliper.
Addendum to the last post, if you are doing this modification and do not intend to replace your dust shields, you will need to modify the old dust shield by removing the curved "ears" and the two extrusions at the top and bottom of the shield so that they don't contact the rotor and caliper.
Lookin' good
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