Quicksilver Saga, 2011 C30 M66 Revival
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'05 V50 T5 M66, '04 XC70, '98 V70 AWD, various junk from other brands
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Are new bolts required? I just reused mine when I installed adjustable arms on mine, but if they should be replaced, I'll get those swapped out
I didn't replace the adjustable UCA bolts when I installed them. AFAIK, the only bolts that should not be reused are the ones that require angle tightening, because they are torque-to-yield (Cylinder head, axle, flywheel, etc). You may want to add a little bit of blue threadlocker if you're concerned about them loosening.
I may be wrong, but technically, you shouldn't need to do alignment if only replacing wheel bearings. but it's not a bad idea to having it checked afterwards though........
I may be wrong, but technically, you shouldn't need to do alignment if only replacing wheel bearings. but it's not a bad idea to having it checked afterwards though........
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3/4 of the way through the wheel bearing job. As mentioned in the thread for it, the puller tool you can rent from user mgm7890 is worth it, makes it a 2 1/2 hour job MAX once you get your bearings (ha).
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Also replaced the lower left front control arm since the right front was done about 2 years ago. It was due, and had cracking on the bushings. Got to test the new tool as well, these are timesavers!!
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Now, next steps are getting the hub back in. Then, I will be replacing both rear upper control arms with adjustables and shooting for an alignment shortly thereafter. Does anyone have experience with installing these and how to adjust them to the similar length as the originals?
Also replaced the lower left front control arm since the right front was done about 2 years ago. It was due, and had cracking on the bushings. Got to test the new tool as well, these are timesavers!!
Now, next steps are getting the hub back in. Then, I will be replacing both rear upper control arms with adjustables and shooting for an alignment shortly thereafter. Does anyone have experience with installing these and how to adjust them to the similar length as the originals?
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I did install those as well. They came with new caliper bolts as well which was nice.
On mine, I removed the old UCA's and then matched the length with the new adjustable ones. Remember to put antiseize on the adjusting threads!.
Then, I started adjusting from there. I eyeballed the adjustment removing the wheel each time, and took it to the alingnment shop (they didn't want to touch the camber though.....), but the values were close enough (left -1.3 and right -0.4). After I got back from the shop, I took 1/4 turn out of the right side and so far, they look to be OK. But I'll have to go back there soon after installing the front LCA's with poly bushings. I'll get a confirmation there to see how off are my rear camber.
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Got the hub reinstalled last night, and all brake parts installed this morning. Rotors and pads had plenty of meat, but the rotors are loosing inner material via rust (between the vanes). Used plenty of permatex quartz extreme and anti-seize.
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After that, I had to get the rear upper control arms in. I applied liberal amounts of anti-seize to both, and got them where they needed to be for a temporary camber level (If I had to guess, -2.0).
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But wow, that inner bolt on the passenger side, that was probably the hardest bolt I’ve removed this year. Put up a fight the entire time, even with 1/4 bottle of KROIL on the thing, and then the head tried to slip the socket twice. But it finally came out, got both cleaned up and everything reinstalled.
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This has probably been the largest job I’ve done yet on this car, besides the alternator. However, it’s whisper quiet now, I’m so excited to finally be able to enjoy the car without worrying about bearing failure or my tires cupping!!
After that, I had to get the rear upper control arms in. I applied liberal amounts of anti-seize to both, and got them where they needed to be for a temporary camber level (If I had to guess, -2.0).
But wow, that inner bolt on the passenger side, that was probably the hardest bolt I’ve removed this year. Put up a fight the entire time, even with 1/4 bottle of KROIL on the thing, and then the head tried to slip the socket twice. But it finally came out, got both cleaned up and everything reinstalled.
This has probably been the largest job I’ve done yet on this car, besides the alternator. However, it’s whisper quiet now, I’m so excited to finally be able to enjoy the car without worrying about bearing failure or my tires cupping!!
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“That” bolt sucks, lol!
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W
What brand of hub tool did you use?
Laser tools 5568
What year is your Spitfire? I had a '74 back in the 90's. White with bolt on factory hardtop. One of the favorite cars I have ever owned. I still miss it! I always got the weirdest looks climbing out of it as I am 6'2". It has huge amounts of leg room. Unfortunately the engine blew and I was young and no financial means to deal with it as it was my daily. Thanks for that memory, it is a beauty!
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The Spitfire is a 77’. It’s been our family project for years but we let it sit for three years. Unfortunately it’s developed several issues even after getting it going again this summer, including a no-start and an unknown coolant leak. We’re weighing options on keeping it versus going farther on a restoration effort, as I also have the C30 and the 850 and they both need attention too!
The C30 has a brake squeak, even after disassembling the front left caliper / pads and relubricating them. They are getting slightly low so it’s a possibility the Textar pads that are currently in it have an earlier squeaker than I’m used to. Thinking about going to Akebono‘s / Zimmerman rotors, a setup I’ve used before on my P80 cars.
I also discovered the cupholder rubber inserts have ripped or are not present. Any idea on where to find just the rubber parts for this so I don’t have to destroy the whole plastic cupholder insert?
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Could just be dust/dirt/metal hard spot in the pad. When it’s cool….spray the brakes and rotors with high pressure water spray a concentrated blast of brake clean into the pad/rotor interface snd the go for a drive.
I have them and I like them. I think they worth it because of the larger rotor size which provides:
- More stopping power with same clamping force. (Yes, the 320mm caliper piston diameter is the same as the 300mm calipers)
- Slightly better heat dissipation.
- Caliper has a different design, looks sturdier, like less prone to flexing from piston pressure.
- Caliper looks better, it fills the wheel better. (I hate brakes that look like this:
If you do the upgrade, that would be the perfect time to also upgrade to stainless steel braided lines and maybe also doing frankenbrakes (rear 302mm)
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wilwoods
That's not a fair comparison, but it's technically correct being a 320mm setup.....
'05 V50 T5 M66, '04 XC70, '98 V70 AWD, various junk from other brands
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1,498 Posts
I stuck with my 300mm fronts because it was cheaper and I just got really good pads for it. Then again, I don’t track it, so I’m sure if you did it would be worth it. I'll probably upgrade next time I need pads/rotors
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