[Facusan]

I also had a plastic rattle on both of my cars, in the bumper/grille area.

On both, the plastic clips (those you press the center part to lock them in place) were worn and allowed the snorkel to rattle against the radiator air guide at idle. I fixed it replacing the clips with bolts, washers and nuts with blue thread lock. I’ll admit I went a little bit overkill.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Facusan]

FCP's video looks pretty much spot on. However, VIDA mentions to finger tighten the mounting bolts first to align the pulley correctly and then torquing them to spec. I remember avenger09123 mentioning his S40 was shredding belts because of a misalignment.

BTW: have you installed the silver project camber arms?

 

[Facusan]

Yes, so it lines up correctly with the tensioner and the A/C compressor.

---------------------------------------

Regarding the camber arms, check your set thoroughly. I have the other set that was on sale along with yours, I installed them last month. So far no problems. But before that, I replaced the bushings because I noticed two things that I didn't like:

1) The outer lip of the amber colored bushings were too thick for the crush tubes. That meant the bushings would get pinched once installed and fail prematurely. Plus, I didn't like them at all, so I replaced all of them. I've looking for replacement bushings for a while and the closest thing I could find was a kit for rear upper control arms of a Nissan 300ZX.

This kit is made by Whiteline (P/N:W62546) and it comes with 4 halves and 4 crush tubes, but required a few modifications to make it fit. First, I had to cut the bushings to the correct length and then had to stretch them a little bit because their outside diameter was exactly 30mm (I was hoping they were at least 1mm bigger) while the inside diameter of the arms is ~30.2mm. I did that by sliding them on to a 1/2" drive socket extension and then boiling them a few times until they reached ~31.2mm.

2) One of the crush tubes was 0.7mm shorter than the rest. Normal length is 35mm, I fixed that issue by adding two stainless steel washers as spacers. And coincidentally it was the one installed on the bushing that failed (according to the seller), because It had some wear marks (see picture). I filed down a small edge it had to prevent it from damaging the inner part of the bushing.


Then when I put everything back together, I added anti seize to the threads, and the wrapped the crush tubes with teflon tape and added grease only to the inner part of the bushing, the outer has to go dry. Because the crush tube is the pivot point.

I posted some pictures in the C70 section here: What did you do to your C70 today?

 

[Facusan]

Yep, removing only the throttle body is a PITA. The first time I used a 1/4" drive screwdriver connected to a dewalt right angle adapter and alternated between a 2" torx bit and a shorter one with a extension. The second time I used the 1/4" mini ratchet with the same bits as before and it was a little bit easier. Although with the mini ratchet it was trickier to "feel" if the screws were tight enough. And I definitely didn't want to mess up those plastic threads..........

 

[Facusan]

For the radiator hoses, the silicone upgrade is a no brainer. And if you are already there, might as well upgrade to the aliminum thermostat housing. But, at least to me, the silicone heater core hoses make no sense. Because the weak points are the composite quick connectors. And at least two of them are needed to connect the hoses to the aluminum pipes at the firewall.

 

[Facusan]

……Also tried the sylvania restoration kit on the headlights, it’s a good kit but aparently you may need to reapply after a year.

Did that kit come with a clear coat spray to seal the freshly polished lens?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Facusan]

So it seems these sealers only last a year. When I restored the S40 headlights, the kit I used (Mothers NuLens) didn't come with one. The lenses lasted for about 5-6 months. I polished them again and also applied Meguiar's Headlight coating spray. Then it lasted for a full year until the lenses were oxidized again. I've kept doing that for the last 5 years now.

I wonder what clear coat product headlight factories use. Because that thing last for years!

 

[Facusan]

Been eying this for a while. let us know how it goes

Me too, I found out about these a few months after I installed a new genuine PLASTIC housing on mine aaaarrrgghhh!

 

[Facusan]

Hopefully I'll have some tips for you once I do mine. 2 and a half years later the virus finally caught up to me, so I'm down for the week, but it's also given me some time off, so we'll see if the car gets any love .

Dang! Hope you get better soon!

Regarding the tips for the job, I basically I was already there a few days ago when I replaced the intake manifolds on mine. So I'll leave my advice for anyone about to go through this. The most difficult part will be getting the airbox out. But as I mentioned in other threads, it's not impossible. Just have the car sitting on jackstands, unbolt the passenger side motor mount from the frame rail and raise the engine a little bit with a piece of 2x4 between the jack and oil pan and push the engine back. Then let the engine rest on the motor mount and remove the airbox by sliding it towards the drivers side. It will not go out without maneuvering it a little bit and it will rub against other components and get a few scratches, but all of them will stay hidden when it's back on the car. The secret is to not freak out and yank it out or grab a sawzall. Replacing the coolant hoses it's straightforward.

 

[Facusan]

did you apply the Jan-01-2018 expiration fix?

 

[Facusan]

Here's a guide for 2014A, but also works for 2014D: Volvo VIDA DiCE 2014D

So, if you already completed the VIDA installation process, and applied the patch that came with the installation files, I would try also applying the expiration fix. Maybe that's what you're missing here.

I'm not sure which patch you have. But the one I got in the DVD that came with my DiCE, stopped working after december 31 2017. Then I found another patch that was meant to correct that specific problem, but doesn't replace the original one.

 

[Facusan]

Here's a thread with the expiration fix: VIDA expiration 123117 ?

If you still have problems, PM me. I can guide you to complete the installation.

 

[Facusan]

What is this”VIDA” that everyone speaks of?

You gotta be joking, right??

 

[Facusan]

Never used it….. is it decent?

Well, it's the official dealer-level diagnostic software for Volvo cars. There cannot be a more complete diagnostics software with removal and replacement instructions and massive amount of technical info about their cars. So, yeah, it's "decent".........

 

[Facusan]

For the expiration fix, check message #57 in the thread.

 

[Facusan]

What link are you looking for? the patch or the expiration fix?

 

[Facusan]

I mean the whole download, including VIDA2014D, patch, and expiration fix. I have a 2014D disk but it does not include the patches.

Windows update will not let me install IE9, it wants to jump straight to IE10 or IE11 as well. How large of a problem is that?

For the whole thing, you'll have to look in very shady websites. Beware the downloads sometimes come with "surprises".

If you already have a disk, then you only need to look for the patch, and that's it. No need to dive in dangerous waters.

Not big deal at all. I'm running VIDA 2014D on IE11 without problems. Just remember turning off automatic updates for windows and IE11.

 

[Facusan]

I'll PM you a link

 

[Facusan]

There are two methods of replacing front wheel bearings.

A) The "I don't care if it lasts, I'm selling the car next week" method which involves pressing the hub/bearing assembly to the knuckle with hydraulic press. Be careful to not bend the brake caliper mounting points. This is not fun to deal with, I had to replace a knuckle in my C70 because of this. Previous owner had wheel bearings replaced at some point and they bent the ears where the brake caliper bolts into. That caused the caliper to be misaligned and the caliper bracket rubbed against the rotor, they "solved" that by grinding the bracket. Yeah, I'm not kidding.

and....

B) The "I want these bearings to last, I'm keeping this car for quite a while" by using either the genuine volvo tool kit or just a GEN2 78mm wheel bearing tool kit, like the Laser 5568 kit.

I used this method when I replaced the front bearings on my C70. It was not difficult at all. I replied to this thread here explaining the process, check it out:

Front Wheel Bearing Replacement Write-Up

run hub centric spacers Any particular model to recommend? These are spacers/adapters? FOUND OUT -> Or just rings that you fit around the 63mm hub to to fill the space from the 65mm? - - Plastic or metal? Thanks!

www.swedespeed.com

Hopefully you can do it the same way......

 

[Facusan]

I didn't replace the adjustable UCA bolts when I installed them. AFAIK, the only bolts that should not be reused are the ones that require angle tightening, because they are torque-to-yield (Cylinder head, axle, flywheel, etc). You may want to add a little bit of blue threadlocker if you're concerned about them loosening.

I may be wrong, but technically, you shouldn't need to do alignment if only replacing wheel bearings. but it's not a bad idea to having it checked afterwards though........