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Does anyone have any ideas on how to remove the wax spots from the black trim on this car? Also looking for suggestions on how to prolong the life of a clutch!

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I wouldn't do the clutch until you need it. Midway grab is OK. You will need to do the flywheel at the same time, so my recommendation is to get one of the LUK kits from England - they sell one for the Focus RS - flywheel, disc, PP & flywheel bolts (need to be changed). You can get the whole shebang for less than any US vendor, even with the shipping. You also need a special socket for the flywheel bolts.

EDIT : Price is REALLY good on this now - maybe it's worth getting it so you have it on hand.

The trim is not coated, so mineral spirits or turpentine is fine for grease removal. I'm assuming you've already tried mild household products? I wouldn't use any colorant/dye type product, but that's just me. Once you start, you have to keep it up.

With that mileage, you likely need the torque mount & both engine & trans mounts. Those I would do now, then see how the clutch goes.

I agree. Definitely mounts. This was mine.nearly torn through.

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I'll grab some stainless steel cleaner, thanks for the tip, lol.

In the meantime, how do I get this weird staining off the hatch glass that surrounds the V O L V O letters?

Try using a bit of white distilled vinegar. Straight up in a spray bottle. Spray on and let sit for 30-45 seconds and then use a microfiber towel.

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If you get to it sooner than later you MIGHT get lucky. Ehhhh......but more than likely youll see some residual. But then again youll only know once you give it a go.


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Without sophisticated body shop tools, a slide-hammer is probably the easiest. That is creased pretty sharply, so may not come out clean at all. If the bumper fits properly, may be better to leave it alone. Having said that, just knowing it is there, would bug the crap out of me if it were my car.

Sleepless nights even....

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Winter update: Car is doing well. I am starting to think about the Timing belt change, I will most likely be doing it early spring. Does anyone know if the cam seals are supposed to be done at this time as well? I've read that some people do them, some people don't, just looking for the consensus on the issue.

Will also need new tires come spring. Thinking about Nokian Z/Lines. Anyone like those here?

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Tires....Summer set/winter set? Or a good all season with summer performance characteristics. I only ask because I can see a lot of the white stuff on the ground...LOL. As far as the cam seals go, if they're not leaking, don't fix it if it isn't broke, comes to mind but I have a lower mileage car albeit hard miles/smiles I can't remember....but if you have the funds and time it obviously isn't going to hurt. If you get lucky, Joe might chyme in. Or "lookforjoe" and ask what he thinks. My 08' has all new seals when the motor was rebuilt.

 

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I was thinking performance all seasons. With college, I really don't have the extra space to keep a set of four tires. Any recommendations? I currently have pilot sport A/S3's.

The new Michelin All Season 4

 

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Working on installing OEM fog lights for this car. Found a cheap switch, then changed the knobs over from my switch so that everything matches and it looks as thought it were the original one. Fog lights, bumper grilles, and a replacement front emblem are on the way.

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Does anyone know where the best source to get a VIDA installation and then how easy it is to flash the CEM for fog lights? I'd like to explore doing it myself if possible.

I believe it is a dealer deal if you want it to be fully functioning as OEM but there are a few guys that have a couple work-arounds. MNIWT and AskforJoe I believe have delved into this issue pretty extensively.

 

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Alright, got everything installed and working! Took me a dead DICE unit and a wasted 3-day VIDA subscription, but lesson learned on updating firmware for clone DICE units. Basic consensus is DO NOT DO IT.

Anyhow, I now have a VIDA / DICE setup, just need to find a copy of 2014D when my new 3 day subscription runs out.

Also replaced the fading Volvo emblem on the front with a new one. Coming soon, timing belt service.

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Lastly, got all new lugs all around to replace the crusty, old ones. Gonna make service a lot easier on this car.

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Lookin' good....

 

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The mirror issue is a thing for P1/P2. There was member who was convinced his neighbor was messing with him because it happened a couple times when his cars were parked in his driveway. Now would be the perfect time to get the "euro" aspherical mirrors, no?

Do tell....

 

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Bendy things are more fun than straight ones?!?

Bendy things are more fun than straight ones?!?

Like these

Bendy things are more fun than straight ones?!?

like these

2007-2013 Volvo C30 C70 S40 S60 S80 V50 V70 - Blind Spot Mirrors for Cars | Trucks | SUVs - SpotterMirror.com

See description for fitment.

spottermirror.com

 

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Finally found some time to pull up the rear seats so I could vacuum under there. I haven't done this since owning the car. Was preparing to find some more crayons and spoons like my 850 R when I vacuumed under it's seats!

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Overall, not too bad. Seems like someone was trying to grow a pine tree in here though! For as clean as the rest of the interior is, this was the dirtiest area so far.

Coming soon: rear sway bar upgrade

Probably picked up a Christmas tree one year.
Which bar are you going with? Elevates has grease zerks. Which is why I went with them. Either way most of the upgraded bars have poly bushings and you should put a single wrap of teflon tape around the bushing and bar where the contact points (like a barber pole, don't over lap the tape) are and then apply the grease. I use Lucas Oil Red-N-Tacky and haven't had a squeak or needed to re-grease and have had poly throughout the entire suspension for about 3 years now.

 

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It's the OEM polestar rear sway bar, I obtained it from a forum member. Could you post more about your teflon tape solution? I'm supposed to wrap it around the bar, and then also around the bushing that comes with the bar? or just around the bar itself? Should I go with fresh rear end-links as well or am I good to just use my current ones if they aren't making noise.

Sorry for the delayed response. I thought that I hit post but must not have.
Wrap the bar, (like a barber pole) then grease, then snap the poly over the bar. Now put one wrap around the poly and grease. Now shove the mounting bracket over the poly and bolt it up. I would replace the end links since the new bar will put more strain on the already tired OEM ones. I went with new Mahle and switched from the stick type to the 90 degree version with upgraded polished balls and better boots.

 

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So I tried an oil change using an oil extractor yesterday, as you always have to remove the splash shield on these cars to get to anything. Getting a manual car on ramps can be tricky as well.

The actual extraction went well, it got less oil than I thought it would though, only around 4.5 liters. The real problems happened when I went to pull the tube out, it was stuck on something in the pan. I proceeded to take apart the airbox and move it over to get the dipstick out, and only then was I finally able to pull enough to remove it. It may have snagged on a baffle or something. It was not fun trying to get the dipstick back in while being blind as the hole lives underneath the PCV box.

After I got that together I got to work, and found a nice, brown puddle underneath my car, at least 1qt big. Turns out the Mahle filter I got from FCP had a bad seal in the box, and it proceeded to throw oil all over the front of my engine and alternator. Went and grabbed a Mann filter from a local place, then my tools + more 0W-40, and was able to drive home just fine. Still a huge mess in the engine bay though.

Most embarrassing oil change ever. But sharing it here so people don't make my same mistakes.

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Thanks for the info...This is precisely why I use a lift or stands and the old fashioned drain and fill. Plus it gives me a chance to inspect those areas when doing the change...just my habits... Car is looking sharp!

 

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Will look into that. I wish they made a black aluminum one so that it wouldn't stick out as much on the bottom of the car.

Send it to an anodizer and have it hard anodized

 

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N

It's been a while since I've update this, the car is doing well and has moved much of my stuff into my first apartment. Now that things are settling down I'll be prepping the spoiler for paint. I've gotten the majority of the sanding done, I plan to prime it later today. Gotta spray it before temps get too low here in WI.

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Nice…..socks match the sander….stylin'

 

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The replacement blue box alternator came in on Monday, but it got installed yesterday. WOW, what a tricky job, I don’t think I’ve ever had such a hard time removing intercooler hoses and moving components around. Had to get the front clip off to access the hose clamps. Removing the throttle body takes forever, it’s a bear if you don’t have the exact length 1/4“ ratchet and T-30 bit.

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However it’s done, and the car is now charging at 14v during idle. Soon to turn my attention to those control arms and the exhaust gasket.

use a flexible impact rated extension for the throttle body. Otherwise you are correct, PITA to fiddle in that tight spot.
Also, when you go to reinstall....a little silicone spray lube applied with your finger will allow you to get the silicone hoses back into position without fighting them.

 

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So it seems these sealers only last a year. When I restored the S40 headlights, the kit I used (Mothers NuLens) didn't come with one. The lenses lasted for about 5-6 months. I polished them again and also applied Meguiar's Headlight coating spray. Then it lasted for a full year until the lenses were oxidized again. I've kept doing that for the last 5 years now.

I wonder what clear coat product headlight factories use. Because that thing last for years!

Urethane with UV protection.

 

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I seem to have developed a leak in my A/C because the cooling is very weak recently. I replaced the clutch assembly on the compressor just after buying the car 2 years ago, so I don’t believe it’s the common cycling on / off issue.

Any ideas on simple leak points for these cars or am I looking at an evaporator coil and dash out repair?

I’ve had two faulty high pressure A/C lines that failed in the exact same spot…right where the rubber line meets the crimp fitting.

 

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Hopefully I'll have some tips for you once I do mine. 2 and a half years later the virus finally caught up to me, so I'm down for the week, but it's also given me some time off, so we'll see if the car gets any love .

My wife and I just got over it. Sucked. I’ve had it 3 times but this last time I had every symptom available. Fever for 4 days with crazy sweats, cough, nose running like a faucet, headache (and I never get headaches) tired as hell for 5 days, and last but not least….still don’t have my full sense of taste or smell back. Literally put my wife in bed for 4 days with cough, runny nose, mild fever, headache. She didn’t lose her taste and smell.

Hopefully you don’t have any issues.