[lookforjoe]

Did you try mineral spirits?

Clutch, Are you new to a clutch? As long as you are not abusing it by burn-outs, toe-heeling it at lights or on hill starts, it should last well over 100k miles.

 

[lookforjoe]

I have driven manual cars before. On this one, the clutch "bite point" is near the middle top of the pedal. Is that normal? Also there is a small clunk going into first or second. Maybe that is engine mount related.

The car is currently at 92k, but was "adult-driven" according to the seller. Should I prepare to replace it anyways?

I've never used mineral spirits on black trim, is it alright for it? (sorry for all the questions!)

I wouldn't do the clutch until you need it. Midway grab is OK. You will need to do the flywheel at the same time, so my recommendation is to get one of the LUK kits from England - they sell one for the Focus RS - flywheel, disc, PP & flywheel bolts (need to be changed). You can get the whole shebang for less than any US vendor, even with the shipping. You also need a special socket for the flywheel bolts.

EDIT : Price is REALLY good on this now - maybe it's worth getting it so you have it on hand.

The trim is not coated, so mineral spirits or turpentine is fine for grease removal. I'm assuming you've already tried mild household products? I wouldn't use any colorant/dye type product, but that's just me. Once you start, you have to keep it up.

With that mileage, you likely need the torque mount & both engine & trans mounts. Those I would do now, then see how the clutch goes.

 

[lookforjoe]

Okay, passenger side mount (which I know is blown for sure) and new OEM coolant bottle is coming. I heard a popular upgrade is to use a ford torque arm instead of the Volvo one since it's tighter?

I also get a slight whiff of exhaust when I start the car, it comes through the vents. Any clues?

The torque mount you want is Focus eDrive. Can't find my post where I installed it for the PN. EDIT: CM5Z-6068A is the Ford PN

http://www.c30crew.com/forum/showthread.php?4550-Ford-Focus-E-Mount-INFO-THREAD&highlight=CM5Z-6068A

No clue on the exhaust smell, sorry.

 

[lookforjoe]

Alright, I'll grab that mount. What's weird about the smell is it only happens at startup, when the A/C kicks on for a second to test itself, then stops as soon as the A/C turns off. If I turn on the A/C manually afterwards, it doesn't happen...

What do you guys use to clean up headlights? I tried the 3M kit and it removed a lot of the oxidation but it still looks slightly hazy overall.

I used Chemical Guys 4 stage compound/polish - with a wheel & their buffing pads. I had the lenses out for projector install - you can polish them just remove the HL assy

 

[lookforjoe]

Okay, so the headlights turned out a 7/10, up from a 5/10 in my book. I plan to go over both again today and possibly the taillights as well to make them nice and shiny like new.



Also looking for ideas on how to repair these rips, or where to get new seat covers. They are the vinyl seats with cloth.


Really need to find a set of weather tech or stock all weather floor mats for this thing.

You can get a full leather replacement upholstery for around 800 from CanadaSeatSkins. Way nicer than the "cloth" ****e - mine had that also, but no tears. I gave them to another forum member. Maybe his old ones are btter than yours? I'd just get the leatehr & be done with it. No way you can beat the price for a full interior. You choose the stitching color, etc. I kept it basic.

https://www.canadaseatskins.us/volv...008-2013-volvo-c30-katzkin-leather-seats.html

I put them in my C30. Does take some effort, it's not bolt in - the front seats are not pre-cut for the switches/pull levers, so great care is required when test fitting & slotting.

Mats for can still get from Volvo, look way better than that generic nonsense

 

[lookforjoe]

Thanks! Any idea what I can do about the window trim? Is it a replaceable part or is it part of the window?

Do these cars need the adjustable camber plates as well?

Don't know about the trim. Glass is all bonded, so the trim is just trim as far as I know. You can look up the parts here (Volvo US website) , that will give you a sense of how it is attached.

I haven't found the need for camber plates, however I don't like slammed rides, and with just the eibach springs, the ride height drop is still within adjustable alignment specs.

 

[lookforjoe]

I plan on keeping the suspension stock as the roads around me suck at the moment. Only thing is a get a slight clunk over bumps, my thoughts are control arms or the sway bar end links?

So the C30 doesn't have the same camber issues as the C70? I remember my dad's C70 had really bad camber, where it would begin to cup the tires on the inside if we didn't align it every so often.

What year C70? If it's the early one, the entire platform is different. In any event, there are no inherent camber issues.

First thing to look at would be end links. Then possibly struts/shocks, top mounts and then control arms, depending on your mileage & how the car was used.

 

[lookforjoe]

How difficult is it to replace that mount?

Just remove the battery & battery tray. That part takes longer than it does to undo the trans mount.

The T/belt is a PITA compared to the P80. Requires raising & lowering the motor a couple/few times to access everything. Still, just another white block besides that, and easier to setup than the t/belt with 99-00 Cam gears..

 

[lookforjoe]

I've heard from many people that you don't have to lock the cams, but that seems kind of dangerous on these cars...

Oh, I lock the cams. The old IPD whiteblock 4- pin tool works just fine

 

[lookforjoe]

To maintain the SS exhaust tips, just buy SS spray cleaner, same stuff you would use for SS kitchen sinks, etc.,. spray on, let sit, wipe off. If its' bad as yours was, scotchbrite w/ the SS spray cleaner will do it. Very little effort required.

 

[lookforjoe]

Heat gun. Should pop out (mostly) if you do it while its fresh.... you need to get behind it though, so I think bumper has to come off to get that high up.

 

[lookforjoe]

I don't have access to one right now, would boiled water work?

I wouldn't think so - eitehr way, the bumper needs to come off. Push the indent back out from the inside, pour the boiling water on it to make it supple, can't hurt

 

[lookforjoe]

As I said, with heat. What do you think the sunlight was doing?

 

[lookforjoe]

Dang. How fast did you accelerate into the wall??

Should be able to get much of that inner fender damage out if you remove the vent - should be just clipped into the panel

 

[lookforjoe]

Without sophisticated body shop tools, a slide-hammer is probably the easiest. That is creased pretty sharply, so may not come out clean at all. If the bumper fits properly, may be better to leave it alone. Having said that, just knowing it is there, would bug the crap out of me if it were my car.

 

[lookforjoe]

Right diff / axle seal. Stick & auto versions are different. Need to pull the right axle to do that, of course.

 

[lookforjoe]

Is it a pain to replace after pulling the axle? Or does it just press in with a large socket.

I don't know if the auto trans has a seat that will limit how far you can insert the seal, or if it will potentially fall beyond the seal area of the axle. I typically use a large socket that ensures contact is only with the outer rim of the seal and tap it in gently, but that doesn mean being careful about maintaining an even insertion depth, which is what the factory seal installer with center guide would achieve.

 

[lookforjoe]

Probably cheaper to buy a new bracket. To fix that insert you will need to invest in a Rivnut tool & rivnuts. I use them al the time, so spending $100+ on a good tool was not the end of the world. You can buy cheapo versions, however they are only intended for aluminum rivnuts, not SS version.

 

[lookforjoe]

Almost at 100k, so it was time for a good oil change and new plugs. With the new OEM plugs, that completes my stage 0 for this car. Timing belt will be coming soon, although it was in good condition when checking it visually.

Went with Liqui-Moly 0W-40 and a new magnetic drain bolt. Car runs a bit smoother with the 0W compared to 5W. We'll see how it likes the cold going forward. The new plugs help with startup and idle for sure, but the old ones weren't bad and I suspect someone who knew what they were doing was taking care of the car previously, as they used Densos. So that's good news!

The OEM FoMoCo Bosch plugs are good for 90+K - mine still had them in when I replaced them with new FR7N133's

I use Denso's in my Honda motor, I'd never use them in a Volvo

 

[lookforjoe]

Do the FoMoCo Bosch plugs have any less MPG compared to the OEM? Maybe I'll go with those next time around.

I bought 10 pk off Amazon (MUCH cheaper) - Bosch packaged, not FoMoCo - never seen them in the Ford packaging