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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey everyone. I've been on Swedespeed for a while, but normally in the P80 forums. After getting interest in selling my 850 R, I figured it was time to move to a newer, smaller Volvo. I had been looking for manual cars FOREVER, and there were very few in my area, if any. Finally I happened upon a M66 2011 C70 with only 91,000 miles, in my area, with a book of records. I went to look at the car on a Thursday, and bought it the next day. Big thanks to C30 in WI, the previous owner, he took excellent care of this vehicle and I plan to do the same.

Here is a quick hatch photo I took after getting back with the car:



This is my first manual car (although I've driven friend's cars before) so any tips on how to drive these cars to avoid clutch wear would be appreciated. I don't want to do a clutch anytime soon lol.

Immediately I noticed the cabin air temp sensor was super loud, so I took it apart and blew it out, and after reinstalling it, it's pretty quiet. After that, I went to work on removing the piece of paper that was stuck in the CD drive. After getting it out, reassembling the console, and testing it, I'm happy to report it works perfectly.







Is there anything I can do to remove the green color from the CD slot?

Things to do on the car: I feel as though this car needs motor mounts, the shifts are a little clunky unless you completely baby the clutch. It also makes some good clunks over bumps, don't know if these are related or they are suspension based. Also would like to figure out how to get these spots off of the trim plastic. Any thoughts are appreciated!

 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Does anyone have any ideas on how to remove the wax spots from the black trim on this car? Also looking for suggestions on how to prolong the life of a clutch!
 

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That car actually looks pretty sharp on Thors. Nice purchase and good price!
What was the paper in the CD??
 

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Does anyone have any ideas on how to remove the wax spots from the black trim on this car? Also looking for suggestions on how to prolong the life of a clutch!


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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Did you try mineral spirits?

Clutch, Are you new to a clutch? As long as you are not abusing it by burn-outs, toe-heeling it at lights or on hill starts, it should last well over 100k miles.
I have driven manual cars before. On this one, the clutch "bite point" is near the middle top of the pedal. Is that normal? Also there is a small clunk going into first or second. Maybe that is engine mount related.

The car is currently at 92k, but was "adult-driven" according to the seller. Should I prepare to replace it anyways?

I've never used mineral spirits on black trim, is it alright for it? (sorry for all the questions!)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That car actually looks pretty sharp on Thors. Nice purchase and good price!
What was the paper in the CD??
Of all things, a dry cleaning receipt from the guy's wife, lol. And then there were more stuffed down near the VIN cutout in the windshield! I still haven't gotten one cause it's so far down there.
 

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I have driven manual cars before. On this one, the clutch "bite point" is near the middle top of the pedal. Is that normal? Also there is a small clunk going into first or second. Maybe that is engine mount related.

The car is currently at 92k, but was "adult-driven" according to the seller. Should I prepare to replace it anyways?

I've never used mineral spirits on black trim, is it alright for it? (sorry for all the questions!)
I wouldn't do the clutch until you need it. Midway grab is OK. You will need to do the flywheel at the same time, so my recommendation is to get one of the LUK kits from England - they sell one for the Focus RS - flywheel, disc, PP & flywheel bolts (need to be changed). You can get the whole shebang for less than any US vendor, even with the shipping. You also need a special socket for the flywheel bolts.

EDIT : Price is REALLY good on this now - maybe it's worth getting it so you have it on hand.

The trim is not coated, so mineral spirits or turpentine is fine for grease removal. I'm assuming you've already tried mild household products? I wouldn't use any colorant/dye type product, but that's just me. Once you start, you have to keep it up.

With that mileage, you likely need the torque mount & both engine & trans mounts. Those I would do now, then see how the clutch goes.
 

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I wouldn't do the clutch until you need it. Midway grab is OK. You will need to do the flywheel at the same time, so my recommendation is to get one of the LUK kits from England - they sell one for the Focus RS - flywheel, disc, PP & flywheel bolts (need to be changed). You can get the whole shebang for less than any US vendor, even with the shipping. You also need a special socket for the flywheel bolts.

EDIT : Price is REALLY good on this now - maybe it's worth getting it so you have it on hand.

The trim is not coated, so mineral spirits or turpentine is fine for grease removal. I'm assuming you've already tried mild household products? I wouldn't use any colorant/dye type product, but that's just me. Once you start, you have to keep it up.

With that mileage, you likely need the torque mount & both engine & trans mounts. Those I would do now, then see how the clutch goes.
I agree. Definitely mounts. This was mine.nearly torn through.


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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Okay, passenger side mount (which I know is blown for sure) and new OEM coolant bottle is coming. I heard a popular upgrade is to use a ford torque arm instead of the Volvo one since it’s tighter?

I also get a slight whiff of exhaust when I start the car, it comes through the vents. Any clues?
 

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Okay, passenger side mount (which I know is blown for sure) and new OEM coolant bottle is coming. I heard a popular upgrade is to use a ford torque arm instead of the Volvo one since it's tighter?

I also get a slight whiff of exhaust when I start the car, it comes through the vents. Any clues?
The torque mount you want is Focus eDrive. Can't find my post where I installed it for the PN. EDIT: CM5Z-6068A is the Ford PN

http://www.c30crew.com/forum/showthread.php?4550-Ford-Focus-E-Mount-INFO-THREAD&highlight=CM5Z-6068A

No clue on the exhaust smell, sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Alright, I’ll grab that mount. What’s weird about the smell is it only happens at startup, when the A/C kicks on for a second to test itself, then stops as soon as the A/C turns off. If I turn on the A/C manually afterwards, it doesn’t happen...

What do you guys use to clean up headlights? I tried the 3M kit and it removed a lot of the oxidation but it still looks slightly hazy overall.
 

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When I have a little extra money I'm going to get some stuff and do this guy's method on the s60.
Alright, I'll grab that mount. What's weird about the smell is it only happens at startup, when the A/C kicks on for a second to test itself, then stops as soon as the A/C turns off. If I turn on the A/C manually afterwards, it doesn't happen...

What do you guys use to clean up headlights? I tried the 3M kit and it removed a lot of the oxidation but it still looks slightly hazy overall.
 

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Alright, I'll grab that mount. What's weird about the smell is it only happens at startup, when the A/C kicks on for a second to test itself, then stops as soon as the A/C turns off. If I turn on the A/C manually afterwards, it doesn't happen...

What do you guys use to clean up headlights? I tried the 3M kit and it removed a lot of the oxidation but it still looks slightly hazy overall.
I used Chemical Guys 4 stage compound/polish - with a wheel & their buffing pads. I had the lenses out for projector install - you can polish them just remove the HL assy







 

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When I have a little extra money I'm going to get some stuff and do this guy's method on the s60.
A couple notes about the video:
- if you start with the 1500, dry and inspect the lens very carefully. It may have small nicks or deeper scratches which will require a much coarser grit to remove. I started with 400 and worked my way back up
- be patient with each stage. When you think you are done, clean and dry the surface and inspect it to see if it is uniform. You may have to go back over it to get spots you missed

I also used the 3M paint protection film on my lights (2008). A year later and the lights still look brand new!

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Many thanks. 3M film in the amazon cart for later (been there for months now). ;)
A couple notes about the video:
- if you start with the 1500, dry and inspect the lens very carefully. It may have small nicks or deeper scratches which will require a much coarser grit to remove. I started with 400 and worked my way back up
- be patient with each stage. When you think you are done, clean and dry the surface and inspect it to see if it is uniform. You may have to go back over it to get spots you missed

I also used the 3M paint protection film on my lights (2008). A year later and the lights still look brand new!

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Okay, so the headlights turned out a 7/10, up from a 5/10 in my book. I plan to go over both again today and possibly the taillights as well to make them nice and shiny like new.



Also looking for ideas on how to repair these rips, or where to get new seat covers. They are the vinyl seats with cloth.



Really need to find a set of weather tech or stock all weather floor mats for this thing.

 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Got around to replacing that passenger side mount. Shifts are a bit easier, less clunky, but still not as perfect. Engine idle vibration is greatly reduced. As you can see, the old mount just about had it.



I noticed something covering the VIN plate, so I got out my aquarium tweezers and pulled this out... Milwaukee strikes yet again, lol.



This was sort of alarming, the passenger side window trim is peeling off and leaving all this shrapnel on the side of the car! Can I replace this or do I have to replace the window? Or can I just use a rubber reconditioner to redo it?

 

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Okay, so the headlights turned out a 7/10, up from a 5/10 in my book. I plan to go over both again today and possibly the taillights as well to make them nice and shiny like new.



Also looking for ideas on how to repair these rips, or where to get new seat covers. They are the vinyl seats with cloth.


Really need to find a set of weather tech or stock all weather floor mats for this thing.

You can get a full leather replacement upholstery for around 800 from CanadaSeatSkins. Way nicer than the "cloth" ****e - mine had that also, but no tears. I gave them to another forum member. Maybe his old ones are btter than yours? I'd just get the leatehr & be done with it. No way you can beat the price for a full interior. You choose the stitching color, etc. I kept it basic.

https://www.canadaseatskins.us/volv...008-2013-volvo-c30-katzkin-leather-seats.html

I put them in my C30. Does take some effort, it's not bolt in - the front seats are not pre-cut for the switches/pull levers, so great care is required when test fitting & slotting.





Mats for can still get from Volvo, look way better than that generic nonsense :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks! Any idea what I can do about the window trim? Is it a replaceable part or is it part of the window?

Do these cars need the adjustable camber plates as well?
 
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