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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Everyone,

I am to the point of replacing the motor in my '04 s80 2.5t due to engine sludge. (The previous owner ran it 60k miles on conventional oil, the turbo just loved that.)

Does anyone have any recommendations for an engine flush I could try? I'd like to run something through it as a last resort since I'm planning on replacing it. It seems like Auto Rx is the favorite among the threads I've found. To give a little more info that might be helpful, this engine is very, very, sludged. I replaced the turbo, and when it came off the oil lines were almost completely blocked by the sludge. The car now runs perfect, except the oil light/no oil pressure message starts flickering after awhile. I drove it from the mechanics shop who replaced the turbo to my house about 5 miles/15 minutes away, and there was no light until I was turning in the garage. It just seems so close that I'd like to try a flush in hopes that it would "fix" it, even if the engine only lasted another 6 months that would be better than having to buy an engine right now.

Thanks in advance for the recommendations.

Brett
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I've actually taken off the oil pan twice, once to clean out the sludge in it/replace the pickup line/screen/o-rings and another time to check it for sludge again.
 

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Was there any sludge the second time? I have had a few that you need to remove the pan multiple times to clean it all out.
I suppose you could try replacing the oil pump....have you taken a look at a rod bearing?
 

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I'd try doing a short oil change interval with a true synthetic (not Group III base stock). I'd try running Redline in a 5W20 or 0W20 weight (thinner to get through clogged passages) and change the filter after 1,000 miles, top off and change oil and filter again after 3,000 miles total.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
There was some, but not a ton. I think it was just on the walls of the pan. The guy who pulled it off seemed to think it was probably there before when the first mechanic did the o-ring job but that it looked like he didn't do a good job cleaning it all out. I haven't actually looked at a rod bearing yet, but oil pump was kind of my next thing. I thought that since the oil light only comes on now after the car has warmed up that the sludge may messed up something in there like the relief control spring. I was going to take it off but then it sounded like a good bit of labor/money for another pump and so I decided to go ahead and replace the motor if I can't get a flush or something relatively cheap to work, since the bill for what I have tried so far is adding up. I really feel like the main issue could be in that oil pump, it's just that even if that fixes it I have a bunch of money in a sludgy engine.

yukikaze: If I go that route should I change it, see if the oil light comes on, then keep driving if it doesn't? I know that sounds like a question, and believe me, I don't drive it at all with that light on, I just didn't know if it's something where the engine will blow up right away if the light is mainly just flickering, or if it would be fine. Keep in mind that while I'm not trying to sabotage the engine, it is a last resort before I pull it out so I'm not quite as worried about this motor as I would be at the start of this process.

Thanks again everyone for all the help.
 

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yukikaze: If I go that route should I change it, see if the oil light comes on, then keep driving if it doesn't? I know that sounds like a question, and believe me, I don't drive it at all with that light on, I just didn't know if it's something where the engine will blow up right away if the light is mainly just flickering, or if it would be fine. Keep in mind that while I'm not trying to sabotage the engine, it is a last resort before I pull it out so I'm not quite as worried about this motor as I would be at the start of this process.
IIRC the Volvo owners manual state that the oil light may come on after hard driving - giving that I wouldn't be too concerned - I would just make sure to listen for any strange noises.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
IIRC the Volvo owners manual state that the oil light may come on after hard driving - giving that I wouldn't be too concerned - I would just make sure to listen for any strange noises.
Cool that makes sense, I remember seeing that actually, thanks. I think this sounds like a good idea b/c I have a feeling if there isn't some problem in the oil pump or something then the 0 weight oil might do the trick as far as letting it through the passages so I can drive it while doing some slow flushes. Thanks for the info I appreciate it. One more quick question, I've heard of Auto Rx and Seafoam but not Redline, where would I get that? I'll check the specs on oils before I get any, but if you have any recommendations on a synthetic feel free to let me know.

Thanks again.
 

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I buy Redline at a Summit Racing store south of Atlanta GA; you may have to mail order it - I think you can straight off their website. At one time IPD recommended the oil and supposedly Redline built a great reputation in racing circles. IPD used to sell it via their website too - they may still carry it.
They do make straight racing weight oils too. I can tell the difference between running Redline vs Mobil 1 - smoother start up, quicker warm up, less oil loss (vaporization?) between oil changes. If you look at the MSDS for Redline oils they have very high flash points.

http://www.redlineoil.com/Products.aspx?pcid=21
 

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I hang out at my buddies indy volvo shop most days of the week. I would say in the past 3 months he has had 4or 5 different 100k miles+ 96-04 volvos come in with the oil light on and it was the pcv system. He had to replace it every time. We cracked one open and it was like hard packed with oil sludge. After that a few short interval oil changes and all is well.

Also, he just took a grenaded block to a recycler today that had that issue and the owner just thought it meant low oil and added a quart everytime. The hole in the side of the block was big enough to put your fist through it.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I buy Redline at a Summit Racing store south of Atlanta GA; you may have to mail order it - I think you can straight off their website. At one time IPD recommended the oil and supposedly Redline built a great reputation in racing circles. IPD used to sell it via their website too - they may still carry it.
They do make straight racing weight oils too. I can tell the difference between running Redline vs Mobil 1 - smoother start up, quicker warm up, less oil loss (vaporization?) between oil changes. If you look at the MSDS for Redline oils they have very high flash points.

http://www.redlineoil.com/Products.aspx?pcid=21

Cool thank you for the link I'll check that out. I'm going to atl on the 30th so I may see if I can find that store and get some while I'm there if it's quicker than the mail order (if I can bring it back in checked luggage on a plane lol)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Wow that's really interesting, that makes me lean towards looking at that pcv system before thinking about an engine replacement since I need to do it either way. Odd question but do you think I could do it without taking off the intake? I will if I have to, I'd just rather leave it on if possible you know. If it makes a difference I have small hands so I can get in some tight spaces.

Lol wow that is really funny, I bet that thing did blow up, I'd be scared to have been the one driving it when that thing went bang.
 

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You coupd with a good mirror. I have an adjustable one with a magnet and a light. Just make sure you get any sludge out of the hole the box attaches to the block. And be csreful some of the plastic parts can be fragile. Spend the money on a new kit if you can afford. Otherwise, clean it out really well.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks for the great tips everyone. I'm going to go ahead and do this Wednesday since it'll be thanksgiving break. I'll let you know how it goes. I'll need to do this anyway even if I replace the engine, and I feel like an an engine flush has a much better chance of working if I know the pcv system is cleaned out.
 

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I purchase 0W30 Redline at Carquest, $60/6 qts including tax. Autochic is selling their inventory of 0W30 and 0W20 at $85/case. See Autochic on ebay or just call Michael at 973-989-9220. f
I buy Redline at a Summit Racing store south of Atlanta GA; you may have to mail order it - I think you can straight off their website. At one time IPD recommended the oil and supposedly Redline built a great reputation in racing circles. IPD used to sell it via their website too - they may still carry it.
They do make straight racing weight oils too. I can tell the difference between running Redline vs Mobil 1 - smoother start up, quicker warm up, less oil loss (vaporization?) between oil changes. If you look at the MSDS for Redline oils they have very high flash points.

http://www.redlineoil.com/Products.aspx?pcid=21
 

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I purchased an 07 V70 2.4L NA with 33K 14 months ago. Car had 7,500 mile oil changes at dealer with bulk oil (I assume dino). Splash screen was coated with varnish. At first oil change I ran a can of the Lubro-Moly Engine Cleaner when the engine was hot, and filled with Redline 0W-30. The first fill became dark quickly, subsequent fills took longer. 4 changes later the splash screen is clean, the oil a medium-dark amber at change, UOAs are near perfect. I attribute the removal of varnish to the detergency of the Redline POE base stock. I would not use the LM Engine Cleaner in a turbo, even though LM approves it. I agree with the other comments that the PCV/oil trap should be replaced.

I hope this helps.
Hi Everyone,

I am to the point of replacing the motor in my '04 s80 2.5t due to engine sludge. (The previous owner ran it 60k miles on conventional oil, the turbo just loved that.)

Does anyone have any recommendations for an engine flush I could try? I'd like to run something through it as a last resort since I'm planning on replacing it. It seems like Auto Rx is the favorite among the threads I've found. To give a little more info that might be helpful, this engine is very, very, sludged. I replaced the turbo, and when it came off the oil lines were almost completely blocked by the sludge. The car now runs perfect, except the oil light/no oil pressure message starts flickering after awhile. I drove it from the mechanics shop who replaced the turbo to my house about 5 miles/15 minutes away, and there was no light until I was turning in the garage. It just seems so close that I'd like to try a flush in hopes that it would "fix" it, even if the engine only lasted another 6 months that would be better than having to buy an engine right now.

Thanks in advance for the recommendations.

Brett
 
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