SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all! I just joined the Forum today and I was hoping to find a posted thread similar to this one:

http://www.6-pack.org/j15/index.php/forum/27-prospective-or-new-owner-start-here

Yes, I have owned my Triumph TR6 since 1985 but have always loved the Amazon. I'm finally ready to buy one that could use some TLC but I'm not sure what questions I should be asking the person selling it (as I'm not able to see it in person). My main concern is rust of course, as that's not in my wheelhouse of things I can fix. I'm less concerned about the mechanical stuff, but I'd still like to know what to keep an eye out for when I'm looking for a decent car.

Any advice from this group would be greatly appreciated...

BTW, I live in the Washington DC area... anyone know of a car for sale I could drive to to check out?

Thanks in advance!

Erik S. aka - Aktifspeed
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Welcome Aktifspeed. I'm also in the DC area, Maryland. I bought my Amazon a few years ago not knowing I was getting into a big project. My car ended up having more rust than I bargained for and resulted in me getting a second Amazon body that was rust free shipped cross country from Arizona. I then got distracted for the past year restoring an 88 BMW E30 convertible. I'm now back to working on my Amazon, but I've still got at least a year of transplanting two cars into one.

I definitely recommend getting the most rust free example you can afford.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
174 Posts
http://www.volvotips.com/index.php/amazon/buying-tips-amazon/

Welcome! I've owned an Amazon for a few years, and prior to purchase had hardly touched a wrench to a car before this. With the help of this forum, a mechanically-minded friend, and the hyper-helpful staff at VP Autoparts and IPD, I'll have a fresh driver come spring. My point is, if you've owned a Triumph and kept it on the road for 30 years, you're certainly not in over your head with the Amazon mechanically. Parts are surprisingly available. Motor parts can even be gotten through Rock Auto and some other places given these mills' prevalence in both Swedish cars over a >10 year period and marine applications.

Earlier models have some cooler 50's-inspired trim, but later models have more "bells and whistles" and are more likely to have the big motor (B20), alternator, collapsible steering column, etc.

As mathrock points out, rust is the enemy. Trim parts are generally the "hard to get" stuff - glass, rubber weatherstripping, knobs, and misc accessories - generally need to be harvested from a donor.

Keep us updated as to what you end up doing!
Mike
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Mike & Mathrock... Do you guys (or anyone else) know of any specific body places on the Amazon that I should be looking for in terms of rust?
Also, mechanically are there known weaknesses that I should inspect before buying?

Thanks again for your help,

Erik
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,305 Posts
any specific body places on the Amazon that I should be looking for in terms of rust?
Roughly in decreasing order of cost-to-reapir:

Cross member between rocker and frame, directly under driver's and front passenger's feet.
Inner fender wells where front outer fender is bolted to inner.
Floors in front and rear.
Front fenders and headlight buckets.


These cars are way past having "known weaknesses". The most recent Amazon is almost 50 years old. Trust me, you'll need to fix stuff. :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
550 Posts
Where to buy ? Well stay out of Minnesota and east all the way to the coast. Road salt sucks.

Actually if you find an Amozon in the rust belt it's most likely from somewhere else. So you can get lucky.

Besides rust have a good look at the interior and rubber parts. Those are very expensive to replace.

After I bought my 66 wagon for two grand. Pretty solid body, pretty trashed interior I saw one online for $7,000 in really nice shape.
I should've just bought that one. For the $5,000 difference I'd be lucky to get the seats redone, new carpet, headliner, door and window seals and whatever just inside the car done.
A good paint job on my car would easily cost 5 to 10 thousand to have it done by a decent shop that does it right. It's been painted wrong already so it needs to be stripped and that always opens a can of worms.

Hey not trying to talk you out of it because I really like my "rustic" old wagon. Just take your time and buy the best one you can right off the bat.
Or be willing to spend way more than its worth to restore it.

Or just drive it in rustic condition and like it. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for all of the advice guys,... Mike, sorry I missed the link in your original post, I'll check it out. The search continues...

Erik
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
550 Posts
TR6 have the J type overdrive? When I rebuilt my OD I used a Triumph Web site quite a bit for reference.

That's another point. If you can find one that already has the overdrive installed it's a plus. Easy enough to put one in too but if you get it to start with go for it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yes, the J type OD was commonly fitted to the TR6... Mine's a bit of a restomod as I've got a Toyota 5 speed tranny going in soon. I already have have a NissanR200 diff and CV joints in the rear that replaced the old u-joint axles. Fuel injecting the 175 Stromberg's is happening with this guy's kit: http://www.pattonmachine.com/
The rear diff work and assorted parts came from here: https://www.goodparts.com/

I'm including the links not to toot the TR6 horn, but to maybe see if you guys could use some of these parts on the Amazon seeing how we know the car's share the overdrive tranny already. As you can see, I'm not a concourse type of guy as I love to make any mods (within reason) that will make the car a bit more reliable, without sacrificing the looks and/or driveability that makes them so special to begin with.

So the Amazon I'm interested in needs new L & R floor panels and also the spare tire container section. Otherwise the car is supposedly solid... the replacement parts seem reasonable from VPAutoparts. I'm no welder, but I know an auto restorer who is who could do it for reasonable money. The 1966 car has a B20 engine already that runs strong (unfortunately no OD) and the seller is asking $3,200. It has the factory light green paint still and the rest of the body looks in solid structural shape as it came out of Texas...

Thoughts?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,305 Posts
So the Amazon I'm interested in needs new L & R floor panels and also the spare tire container section.
Front floor panels or rear? The front ones are welded all the way around, and also they run over top of those short crossmembers I mentioned. Usually, when the front floors are gone, those crossmembers are too. They have a structural purpose, transferring load from the outer rockers to the frame, so they are semi-important.

If the rear floors are holed, it's no big deal and they're easily replaced.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It was the front floor panels that were gone, as was the crossmembers and the spare tire well in the trunk. Otherwise the car was good I was told, but I ultimately passed on it since I could not lay eyes on the car myself to see if there was any more rust...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
174 Posts
Smart move, IMO. If the floors and trunk are gone there's sure to be more... and that alone is a big project unless you're set up for that kind of work.

$3k should at LEAST get you a driveable, rust-free example (unless they've really caught on since I bought mine). Be patient and keep looking!

No idea how close this one is (East Coast geography still alludes me.)
https://longisland.craigslist.org/cto/5257093108.html

Mike
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Mike, Thanks for the encouragement... The ad you showed lists a car near my folks house on Long Island. If only it was a 2 door! That's what I really want... Other than that I would of hopped in my car to drive up and buy it... "Hi mom, do you mind if I kick your car out of the garage like I did when I was a teenager and store another old weird car in there for a while...?"
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
$3k should at LEAST get you a driveable, rust-free example (unless they've really caught on since I bought mine).
Oh yeah, they have caught on! Not sure when you bought yours Mike, but take a look at Hagerty's valuation guide for the model:

https://www.hagerty.com/valuationtools/HVT/VehicleSearch/Report?vbe=46727

A 1967 2 door model in #4 condition (4 being worst in a 1-4 range) is worth $4,700 today... You might want to up your agreed value with your classic car insurance if you have that...

E.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
111 Posts
I'd add that the "nose section" parts can be difficult and expensive to source in good condition (grill inserts, front nose panel) as many have been "bumped" over the years and sustained damage. The rubber window seals on the rear vent windows (2 door models) are not available anywhere (unless that has recently changed), so replacing them means finding a set of good used windows. The seals seem to hold up well, but it's something to be aware of.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Have you found a suitable Amazon yet? I know of one (1967 two door) that was in San Diego but is now in Maine. Has a little rust on the rear lower fenders which can be replaced with new parts. Owner is long time Volvo guy and has kept it mechanically sound. Would require a trip to Maine.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top