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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Any tips on putting a windshield in?
I have done it once and it made quite a mess. I used that black sealant that turns to rubber and it gets everywhere the longer it takes. I made the mistake last time of not pre-fitting the rubber seal, and so when my sons and I were trying to put it around the glass it kept popping off. One of the lads noticed it was too long, so I took a box cutter knife and cut about 2 inches out and it fit. I had to glue an inch back on though because I took too much off, because of the need to hasten the job as the goo was drying.
By the time we were done, the windshield was in but there was black goo on everything. The car will need a paint job.
I have heard you can use plumbers putty to put in around the body aperture and also where the windshield would seat in the rubber seal. Is this so? I think that would be alot easier.

Any tips would be appreciated. I may even pay a body guy to do it.

Rodger
 

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I have used various caulks with different degrees of success. Silicone works OK if you clean it off SOON ENOUGH.
I have found that the OEM gasket IS RIGHT and you don't want to mess with it, just put it in!
I have on occasion used several pieces of sheet metal under the lip to help guide it into place, about the size of putty knife blades.
Having someone to help you makes a BIG difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the tips.
So the gasket is correct.
I guess a dry fit first is best instead of gooing it up and trying to fit it in. Then you know how much play is involved. When I put that last window in there were gaps on the upper corners where the gasket meets the aperture. Not enough to see into the car but i did have to fill them with more black goo. Well I will just have to man up and fix the mess i made and redo it.

I cannot find a welder that will work on old cars. The shops all want to work on insurance jobs only. Terrible. Are people not paying these artisans for their work? My concern is for the spare tire well. If i get a mobile welder, will it effect the frame? The well seems to be part of the frame once it is welded in.

Well off for the weekend. An older friend's wife died so will have to go pay my respects.

Rodger
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That manual for the p1800 is fantastic! I wish I had that before. Lots of good info. Boy did I make alot of work for myself needlessly.

Rodger
 

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Well I will just have to man up and fix the mess i made and redo it.

I cannot find a welder that will work on old cars. The shops all want to work on insurance jobs only. Terrible. Are people not paying these artisans for their work?

Rodger
You must find a fab shop or a resto shop (easy to say near Seattle/Tacoma) or...........get yourself a nice MIG and do it yourself.
I too did my w/s install and what a crappy job. I'll hire that out when its time to paint.
 

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If you do your welding right it will not affect the frame - there are lots of welds in it already. Don't catch anything on fire though - that undercoating burns pretty well. Makes a LOT of smoke also.
 

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The worst part is when you do find a shop that specializes in old cars, they think each car needs to win a concourse and charge $200 an hour or so. I want a nice paint job on my 122, but $10k or more for it? Come on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I did find a guy that runs a shop here. One of the guys from the local volvo club recommended him. I talked with him on the phone and he seems to know what he is on about. I'll keep this thread apprized to what value I get. I am waiting for a new gas tank to come in though. Mine has some issues so I ordered one. Bear Mountain Auto body said having the tank out will make it easier to weld in a new spare tire well. He also said the used windshield should have been okay if it isn't too cloudy. Maybe I can keep the new one as a spare. Stay tuned.

Rodger
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Whats a good sealant to go around the rubber gasket with? RTV sealant? I had the window put in but the body shop had a glass company come out to help them. The glass guy said the rubber and chrome lock the window in and seal it so no need for goo. Well after the first wash it was proved that goo is needed because it leaked like the window wasn't even in there. I don't want to pop it out (for a third go) I just want t put something around it to seal it.

Rodger
 

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I would make them do it over. The glass guy was wrong, I've never seen a front windshield put in without some kind of sealer. I've seen rear and side windows put in without it but the front has more forces acting on it. But I understand the frustration of not wanting to deal with an incompetent shop.

If you do use silicone, I have a neat trick I learned from the home depot: MASKING TAPE! Usually silicone gets smeared all over and looks gross and stupid. But if you mask it with that nice wide painter's tape, you can smear it all over, then all the smeared stuff comes off with the tape leaving you with a very neat and clean joint. Make it nice and thin where it joins the tape so you don't have a step when the tape comes off. And take off the tape as soon as you're done, don't wait for it to dry. Put the tape on so that you have a very fine bead of silicone too, don't have a massive river of it running around the front windshield.

Here's an example of how good it can look when done:

 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The glass company came to the house and sealed it no charge. It seems to have done the trick. He used a polyurathane product, and it was a warm day it was drying fast so he had to hustle.

Rodger
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
And he used the masking tape trick. I never even considered that. It did make a nice neat job.

Rodger
 
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