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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What protocol is followed when removing timing belt and cams when timing is off? I'm doing a tear down to get the head off to investigate the burnt valve this car allegedly has. The point off marking the cams is to get the first cylinder raised correct?


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Pics? How do you know your timing is off?

Makes no difference, really. You will set the cams & crank markers on reassembly. Easiest with the Volvo tool that locks the cams in correct alignment. You can buy the whole cam cover / cam tool kit for under $100 on eBay these days...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for your reply, it gets frustrating when you see the number of views increase but no one chimes in. I will get some pics on today I didn't have a 30 mm socket to turn the motor yesterday. On the cams I see a factory embossed "M" on each I assume that is the timing mark. The M's look to be way off from each other so that had me going. Also the exhaust cam is VVT does that impact how I remove it or just an additional step for the reinstall


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The timing marks on the cams are not a "M" they're a single line engraved into the teeth of the cam pulley

In this picture the timing mark is two valleys to the right of the yellow line
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks so much for your reply I went to nap and got my 30 mm socket so I could turn the engine over today and I did find those marks and all is well do you happen to have a camel walking tool that you would like to rent me I live in upstate New York I'm good for it or are you can sell it to me too


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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Camel walking tool!! Wow talk to text is crazy sometimes. Cam locking tool would be way more useful


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I don't have a cam locking tool. I didn't use it when I replaced my cylinder head, had no issues getting the timing lines back up but I also did somethings "my way" instead of the way Volvo wants you to do it. The way I did it there are some additional risks/issues that present themselves and because of that I don't recommend it to everyone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yea I'm bidding a cam locking tool set for 45$ on eBay I saw the other ways to do it with zip ties and all that jazz but I don't feel like spending the time fabricating especially if I can get this for 45 bucks


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Putting cams back on



then lock rear slots



Timing marks



Just DON'T remove the exhaust cam gear (VVT Hub) from the cam! If you need to install new seals, slide them on the cams from the back end. MUCH easier than trying to go through the torque process for the hub

 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks, but this raised another question, in regards to valve adjustment mentioned for a new cylinder head, that means different from the original right? Not the original back from the machine shop, is that correct also I was planning on using the copper spray a gasket product on the new head gasket and a few other gaskets as well it sounds like it beefs them up and improves heat transfer, any exp. with that?


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No valve adjust on a 99 - you have hydraulic lifters, later ones are solid.

There is no reason or need to use any additives / sprays on any gasket in this engine. It will not do anything productive. It's like people that use RTV on the 'paper' gaskets, WTF is that about?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
. Nice one Joe I guess I'll be bringing that back to Napa for my $12 anyhow any recommendations on how to get these pesky crimps off of these PCv hoses that are everywhere i'm trying not to destroy some of the hoses some are already collateral damage but I don't want to continue


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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I got the intake manifold off and was able to see the valves those all in good shape there's some oil sitting on the top of valves incylinder three where there was no compression. in your experience do the exhaust valves tend to the be the ones that get burnt?


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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
holy smoke checked batman! This is the bottom end port from the flame trap. I just punched a hole through it. This poor engine!


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Exhaust valves are the ones that usually burn in my experience. Your PVC system is so so clogged, you have some major work ahead of you if you want anything out of that motor. And don't worry too much about the clamps, the entire system should be replaced, so start tearing it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I'm getting ahead of myself here I know but I haven't dumped the oil yet and now I'm thinking to keep it in there after the new head goes on and everything is put together that I should seafoam it then dump it and add nice new synthetic Mobil one


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The only way I'd approach that block, and have any assurance of restoring any meaningful life to it, would be to completely tear it down, and have the block boiled to clear all the channels.
 

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At the very least, the oil pan should be dropped & the block drain and the oil breather drain channel in the pan cleared, as it drops down below oil level & then makes an upturn

You can see it here in my pic with my baffles removed - the square section 'tube' in the approx 1 o'clock position, dropping down to the base of the pan



ALL the breather related hoses need to be replaced, and the PTC valve in the inlet pipe to the turbo should be removed & de-coked also.
 
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