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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sooo. Just took possession of my new to me 2006 S60R (Sonic Blue/Gobi/GT). Can anyone recommend a good service provider in the Portland, OR area? I'm looking at VolTech for now but there are several indies in the area.
 

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That is a nice camRy you drive!!
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/colovolvo/7512458136/" title="Untitled by colovolvo, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8146/7512458136_68b1173b5b_b.jpg" width="720" height="540" alt="Untitled"></a>
 

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Depends on what part of Portland you live.

Peter's volvo off of 72nd in tigard is good, t-Scandia in tigard is good, V-shop on Barbour is good, R-Sport International on N.vancouver is good, but slow.
 

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Buy yourself some tools, it will save you thousands in the long run.

This is probably the best deal you could get, and it's a very large set. The only thing it doesn't have is a full set of combination wrenches, and swivel joints. If you also got that, then I'd get some vice grips and crescent wrenches.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/craftsma...edirect=true&sLevel=0&redirectType=SKIP_LEVEL

Funny, because this is my first real set of tools that I bought to save money. Since then I have bought couple more boxes, specialty tools and sooo on. I highly recommend this set.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Tools

I have a Leatherman and some duct tape, I'll be fine.

No problem on tools, is it worth buying an ODBII scanner to read codes and start on repairs (when needed) or does the whole VIDA thing ruin that?

I know nothing about cars, but can follow pictures and swedespeed DIY instructions pretty well.
 

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I wouldn't bother buying an OBDII scanner. These cars have a lot of failures, but don't seem to have too many emssions/electrical issues that would throw CELs. When it does happen, just run down to O'reily or Autozone and borrow theirs for free. I've had 1 CEL in this car and it was my leak detection pump (LDP). Apparently that thing is a super bastard to get to (especially w/o a lift), so I just paid the dealership a retarded amount to replace it.

How many miles are on your car? I bought mine with just under 60k and it's been falling apart ever since. Apparently there's a lot that goes wrong with these things right about 60k if they're from a snowy/rust environment. I'm really hopeful though that when I get through this round of crappyness it'll be all sorted for a while and I can actually enjoy it some.

Here's a list of things I've had to replace on my car in the last 9 months or so:
- Leak detection pump
- Ebrake shoes and linkage
- Front brake pads and rotors
- Rear brake pads
- Rear wheel bearings
- Battery (was the original battery from '03, so can't be mad about that)
- Front wheel bearings
- Passenger side front axle
- Reverse light switch
- Windshield clips
- Spark plugs
- Cabin air filter
- Engine air filter
- Transmission fluid (which is apparently made out of unicorns and 14k gold given what they charge for it)
- Engine oil and filter

Still to come:
- Front end bushings
- Angle gear re-seal
- Cup holder cover

Anyway, I only mention those things as a reference point for you. Almost everything I mentioned is either routine maintenance or a common failure on these cars, so I'd get to know all of those procedures if you're going to work on the car yourself.

Oh, also, don't go through an automatic car wash that has an undercarriage sprayer with your DRLs on. If you do do that, then the fuse panel is on the driver's side side of the dash where it snugs against the door. There should be an extra 15A (IIRC) fuse in there to replace the main DRL/high/lowbeam fuse. The car won't tell you that your DRLs aren't working, so you'll drive somewhere, it'll get dark, you'll go to turn on your headlights, then it will tell you "bulb failure." Ask me how I know. :p
 

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I wouldn't bother buying an OBDII scanner. These cars have a lot of failures, but don't seem to have too many emssions/electrical issues that would throw CELs. When it does happen, just run down to O'reily or Autozone and borrow theirs for free. I've had 1 CEL in this car and it was my leak detection pump (LDP). Apparently that thing is a super bastard to get to (especially w/o a lift), so I just paid the dealership a retarded amount to replace it.
Really bad advice...

Spend ~$20-25 on Amazon (many available), read the reviews, and get yourself a reader. I bought a Bluetooth version, so I do not need any wires, and I use the free version of Torque on my Andriod phone.

On the Rs I owned and even on the XC70 I have now, the scanner has saved my ass and lots of $$. It CAN be difficult to diagnose certain issues, some of the codes do not translate well. So far, every code has been easy to read and with a couple minutes of google searching, I found the exact issue and the cheapest place to buy the part(s). Most recently, the fuel pressure sensor on the fuel rail went on my XC70. The car threw a couple of codes, all of them lead to the sensor, and I found the equivelant part from Land Rover for much cheaper than Volvo sold it. The dealer wanted just over $200, Tasca wanted somewhere in the $150 range, and the parts site I bought the LR version off of was under $90 shipped.

Good luck and enjoy your R!
 

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02 S60 T5M - Black - KW V2, Brembos + HP5.0, FMIC, R Nordkap Swap - 128k
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Instead of a scanner you can always get a Dice interface and use VIDA or VDash on a laptop. That will serve dual duty if you ever want to load a tune as well.
 
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