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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I figured I'd make a thread with details about the modifications done to the swedespeed project car. Feel free to ask any questions or make suggestions or praise or hate. :)

So this project is a few years old already, however things have drastically changed in the past few months. It all started when I found the original 74 142 on the Baltimore, MD Craigslist. After scoring an amazing deal on the car, I got it home and went to work. The plan was always to have a low and slow car that I can cruise around town in with the family. After rebuilding the suspension, brakes, and sorting some mechanical issues, I threw a set of 15x8 5x108 Gotti J55B's on it and called it a day.

The car started developing a bunch of rust related issue and it came time to make a decision, spend money restoring the car or spend less money on a cleaner example. So I decided to search for a clean rust free 142. Unbeknownst to me, that's like searching for a unicorn. What I quickly found out is that 142's, especially 1974's, were sold in less quantities and were typically driven into the ground like most red block Volvos. It took me over two years to find a "clean rust free" example. My criteria was pre 1972 because I liked the front and rear ends better, as well the dash style over the later 142s, which also known as 240 transition cars. Every "clean" car I found was on the west coast and sold immediately or faster than I could find someone to go look at the car for me. Frustrating experience none the less.

So, just before Thanksgiving this past year, I was scouring the internet like normally do and I found a car posted on the VCOA website with no photos advertised as a former show car in mint condition, it had a number listed so I called the guy right away. 89 year old Dan answered the phone and we chatted for an hour or so about the car. He had shown the car on the old man show circuit in the mid atlantic region with great success and the car was being sold with 28 show trophies. Since Dan was 89 years old, he didn't use the internet and I had to wait for photos to be mailed to me.

It wasn't until after Christmas that I as able to make it out to Lower Delaware to inspect the car. It wasn't in the condition Dan described, the paint isn't the best. Blotchy metallic, over spray, tape lines, a few runs, orange peel, obvious bondo in the drivers door. However, it was CLEAN, RUST FREE, and it was on the EAST COAST. After a test drive, I made an offer, negotiated a price, and drove away with the car. Couldn't be happier with it. :D

So here's what I started with, some may recognize the car. This is a 1974 142DL (deluxe), it's a base model 140 with a BW35 3 speed autotragic.





DSC_1225.jpg by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr

DSC_1228.jpg by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr

DSC_6926.jpg by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr
Lots of time spent like this. :mad

DSC_6943.jpg by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr

DSC_7540.jpg by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr

DSC_7977.jpg by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr

DSC_7969.jpg by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr

DSC_7953.jpg by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr



And this is what I purchased recently. 1974 142GL (grandluxe). This is the top of the line 142 that was offered in 1974, leather interior, sunroof, bw35 :mad:, tachometer, two seats in the rear vs a standard bench seat, etc.








The suspension almost sorted, have to replace the rear springs with a stiffer 5" coil spring and an adjustable spring perch. The rear has adjustable torque rods, and an adjustable pan hard bar. #800 AFCO springs in the front, IPD sway bar and endlinks in the front, and Bilstein sports in the front and rear.

Plan is to trade the green car for a B20 long block and start an engine build. The low and slow idea has been thrown out the window since I sold my "fast" car and daddy wants to go fast again. So I'll be chasing the 200+whp B20 unicorn. Megasquirting the car, running GSXR750 individual throttle bodies, and doing extensive engine modifications to get me to my goal. :vampire:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sent these to sweden to have a little massaging done. GSXR750 throttle bodies, Volvo b20 DCOE manifold, DCOE flange, -6 Fuel rail, and -6 weld fittings. Big thanks to Alex and Karl at Buchka Engineering for making this idea come to fruition.

Untitled by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr
All that looks like this now:





Rear spring setup up from Kaplhenke Racing.

Untitled by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr

Untitled by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr

Untitled by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr
Rear suspension is complete.

Untitled by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr
Modified weight jack spring cups.

Untitled by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr
crappy cell phone pic of how the rear sits now. Just tad lower.


Untitled by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr

More parts showed up for the upcoming engine build.
Rare vintage IPD racing lightened flywheel for a 6 bolt b20 crank

Untitled by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr
Forged H-Beam Cunningham Rods clearanced for stroker. :cool

Untitled by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr


Went for a cruise with a buddy.

DSCF5061.jpg by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr

DSCF5060.jpg by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr

DSCF5059.jpg by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr
 

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Are you going to a T5? Phil Singher can supposedly get us B20/T5 adapters for around $110 if we can get 10+ people interested. Just a thought if that's the direction you're headed in.
 

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I'm not sure. I guess we'd have to start a thread to gauge interest. That price seemed too good to pass up though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Throttle bodies showed up. They look awesome. Have two different lengths of stacks to choose from. I'll be installing this winter and hopefullly bagging the car too. I have to send some things out for plating on the ITB's before I can install them, so I'll be boxing them up next week and sending them off.

Untitled by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr
 

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Nice...can't wait to see it installed!

Will bagging the car replace your springs and shocks? (Don't know much about bagging)....If so, would you consider selling your springs, shocks/coilovers?
 

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Also, where did you source your Billstein Sports? All I can find are HDs or Touring.
 

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So I do not think I saw this mentioned but are you putting that new EFI setup on the stock motor or are you having the engine rebuilt as well?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Engine will have paeco 85mm stroker crank, cunningham h-beams, forged pistons, worked head, and lightened flywheel. I have everthing but the pistons right now. The EFI will be standalone, not sure what yet. Maybe MSPRo, maybe LInk.

V1 of the suspension is done, need to pull the crossmember out of the green car and modify it to accept a shock and bag up front. I'll do that when I pull the engine out for the build. I'm completely in love with this air suspension. The car looks absolutely incredible laid out. But now I can get in the car, air it up to old man ride height, and cruise with a worry in the world. Want to put it on the trailer? Sure, air it up, no sweat! The suspension handles very nicely too. Took it for a cruise up the mountains and it performed way beyond my expectations. I think you need to experience it for yourself.

The front bags are tiny for now, and they require 120psi to get the ride height I require, which means they ride fairly stiff, and it's not out of control with out the front shocks in right now because of the high psi. It's like running a #800> spring. Too rough? Air it down a little. The rear bags I run 25psi () to 30psi depending on how I'm driving. The combo is pretty satifisying. I need to revise the front sooner than later though to get a front shock in there. I"m not willing to lose the front swaybar.

So far the only issues I've had are a few air leaks that I need to sort. Both front bags are leaking, and a have a leak in a fitting on the tank. Beyond that, it's just been a quirk with the V2 Autopilot not being to have a start up preset value of >90psi. So I have to air the car up in stages, which isn't a big deal, the controller has 8 customizable presets. The dual 380C's do a decent job of replenshing the tank, but I think I may add another smaller tank and switch the 380C's out for 440s.

Front pass side fender got damaged on the trailer, buddy told me to cut the wheel hard to the left and back up, and backed right into the trailer fender putting a large dent in the lower portion of the fender. Luckily it didn't hit the rocker so it should be an easy repair.


Southern Worthersee 2014 - © Sam Dobbins - 0108 by More Than More, on Flickr

Southern Worthersee 2014 - © Sam Dobbins - 0107 by More Than More, on Flickr

Untitled by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr

Untitled by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr
 

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Nice!
 
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