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Hey do the 305mm brakes fit in the 16" wheels? And does anyone have any parts cars with 305mm brackets? I'm gonna get new rotors and I'd really like the 305.
If you decide to stick with 305mm and not go to 316mm, I have a set of brackets I pulled off a CO T5 S60 a couple years ago. In good shape, and I'm ~30min from Littleton. They were going to go on my XC, but I'm probably going to go the 316/308 route now.
 

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Discussion Starter #62
PM'd.
 

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That is a sweet ride and yes It's getting harder to find the low mileage unmolested examples at a decent price.
Thanks for the tip on the Magic Eraser ,,, I'm always looking for proven cleaning tips.
And yeah I've a bunch of the Milwaukee Fuel Equipment along with 1/2" drive monster 1200ft/lb "NutBuster" and man O man you better be sure before you pull the trigger because all hell breaks loose when you do!
Tire changes are actually fun now.
Oh you forgot to break the bolts loose before you jacked car up? Who Cares? With this bad boy in your arsenal it'll simply snap out the bolt and wheel won't even turn while it's off the ground! Amazing!
If someone told me a cordless tool could have this much power I wouldn't believe them, and No i did not get paid to say this.
Stay curious
Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #64
We have achieved... WANG.



So yeah, I went ahead and got one of the fiberglass ones from ScottishBrick, and it works. I think overall I would have preferred a factory one, for the quality, fit, and the brake light.

I broke down and paid a body shop to paint it, and it came out 1000x better than I ever could have done. Cost me $200, but they even block sanded it down so there are zero imperfections in the top. Factory quality paint, color matched perfect, with clearcoat.

The holes were each about 1/8" off the factory drill marks, so that sucked, I just ovaled everything out with my dremel. And one side has about a 1/8" twist in it so it doesn't fully seat down on the double sided tape. But it's not anything I'll ever notice, now that it's on there. If I find the tailgate filling with water or something, I might have to caulk it. That or just put drain holes in the tailgate, it is plastic after all.

It also blocks about half of the third brake light:





It still does its job, and I hope you don't feel bashed on or anything SB, I just want to be clear about my experience.

After installing that, I was still rolling with motivation so I did my traditional de-badging job. I like my cars cleeeean.



And in our next installment: THE TRITONING!



I was out of energy for the night, but if there's any cool weather in the next few days I need to get moving on the brakes, and then I can mount these. The only reason I've been hesitating is that I hit a super bad pothole a couple years ago and I want to mount the one that took the hit and see if there's any noticeable bend or wobble in it, before I go spending $$$ on more tires (these are worn out).
 

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Even the OEM wings fit that sh*tty. I was fuming when I used the oem volvo install kit on my car, drilled the holes and.....they didnt match the oem spoiler I got from an R. Was 1/4" off on one and it made a huge hole in the tailgate to get it fixed. So dont feel bad were all in the same boat.Hence the suggestion just paint/grease transfer the post locations to the tailgate. For what they cost those wings aside from the brake light are just as good as factory, but made of fibreglass. I dont make them so no offense taken whatsoever.

However, the paint job on yours does look phenomenal. Good call on the body shop, you certainly get what you pay for!
 

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Discussion Starter #66 (Edited)
I have seen the top of the mountain... and it is good.











Brand new Continental DWS06. These tires are insane, neither this car or my C70 can break traction with them. First tires that's ever been true of with these cars. So yeah, with these wheels, the cosmetic mods to this car are done. I might put spacers on, if I do it'll be 5mm in front and 10mm in back, just to push the wheels out perfectly flush.

Oh, except I have to get that tar off the rockers and add mud flaps. Then the cosmetics are done. If it doesn't drop more in the next few months, I will be taking the springs out and cutting 1/4 coil off all 4 of them to get it lower.

Sadly the tire shop did not get the balance dialed in. The car shakes at 70mph or over. It's perfect up till then though, I might just drive slower.

All that I have left for a perfect stage 0 is:

Brakes
Brake fluid flush
New spark plugs
Cabin filter

I bought a radiator because I saw coolant seepage out of the passenger side tank, but I flushed the coolant in February and it hasn't leaked a drop since. So I think I wasted that money. I'll probably change it just to use it.

Other than that I will at some point upgrade the stereo, but it's fine for now.


I bought this car for $6000, $334 in taxes title and registration. I've spent an additional $3386 bringing it to stage 0 and cosmetics like tint and the wing. So I'm in to this car for $9720. Not too bad a trade for an R I sold for $8000. I will own this car for at least another decade. 15-20 years if possible. Volvo for life.
 

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Looks fantastic!
 

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S60 Front bumper swap ..... LOL
 

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It looks great! Adds up fast, doesn't it!

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Discussion Starter #72
The S60 has a nicer lower lip doesn't it? I was seriously considering watching the classifieds for partouts and putting front and rear R bumpers on it and leaving off the badging. Most people wouldn't really think it was an R, just sporty.
 

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that seems like the easier route. Doing an S60 front bumper including the internal energy absorber appears to be pretty challenging.
 

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that seems like the easier route. Doing an S60 front bumper including the internal energy absorber appears to be pretty challenging.
Many have tried, few have succeeded!

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Oh it can work, just take the energy absorber out completely. But then you are changing things that effect timing and rate on airbag deployment; crumple rates and the like.
 

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Oh it can work, just take the energy absorber out completely. But then you are changing things that effect timing and rate on airbag deployment; crumple rates and the like.
Maybe not....R bumper for wagons basically has a factory energy absorber delete. The wagon specific R bumper internal trim is ultra thin to make up the difference between the thicker bumper for the shorter S60 and the requirement for the V70. Crash bar is the same S and V, crash sensors are in the core support.
 

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So SB it seemed like you sold your late S60 front bumper in favor of the V70R front bumper, assumed you had hit a roadblock
 

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So SB it seemed like you sold your late S60 front bumper in favor of the V70R front bumper, assumed you had hit a roadblock
Yea the garage was full and I needed the $ at that time.
 

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THAT is a fantastic looking car! Tritons are 18s?
I have seen the top of the mountain... and it is good.
I will own this car for at least another decade. 15-20 years if possible. Volvo for life.
 

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THAT is a fantastic looking car! Tritons are 18s?
18x7.5, they look mint as heck!

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