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It looks like you can. I looked it up for a V50 2.4i 2007 - the clutch is $241 at one online retailer and at another it was $207 ( www.tascaparts.com ). It looks like the original part number was 30780457 but that number was receded and the new number is 30733821. The name is just that clutch.

Hope this helps
delhi

ps all - I have a pdf file (6mb in size) that is the parts catalog for all Volvo S40 (New Style) 2004-10 which I can send to anyone who may need it or better would be to post it on the forum. It has been great to look up parts and find them. Let me know what or how to post it.
 

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It looks like you can. I looked it up for a V50 2.4i 2007 - the clutch is $241 at one online retailer and at another it was $207 ( www.tascaparts.com ). It looks like the original part number was 30780457 but that number was receded and the new number is 30733821. The name is just that clutch.

Hope this helps
delhi

ps all - I have a pdf file (6mb in size) that is the parts catalog for all Volvo S40 (New Style) 2004-10 which I can send to anyone who may need it or better would be to post it on the forum. It has been great to look up parts and find them. Let me know what or how to post it.
It certainly helps, thank you! :)

30733821 is Volvo part number or Tasca part number?


P.S. Tom, any ideas how to make parts catalog available online to all forum members?
 

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Sorry I did not explain better. 30733821 is a volvo part number. When you go to the websites, you can search by model and year or you can enter the part number. In this case 30733821 and it will find the part and list the model and year for the part. So far, the cheapest parts have been at www.tascaparts.com. The other website I checked for price was www.myswedishparts.com and it had a higher price listed. Volvo listed it at $321. The hard part is just getting the part number if you don't have the part in hand or someone knows it.

I am looking at converting the pdf to a jpg and seeing if I can post it via photobucket. I was hoping there would be an easier way.

glad to help kova - let me know if there is anything else

delhi
 

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Sorry I did not explain better. 30733821 is a volvo part number. When you go to the websites, you can search by model and year or you can enter the part number. In this case 30733821 and it will find the part and list the model and year for the part. So far, the cheapest parts have been at www.tascaparts.com. The other website I checked for price was www.myswedishparts.com and it had a higher price listed. Volvo listed it at $321. The hard part is just getting the part number if you don't have the part in hand or someone knows it.

I am looking at converting the pdf to a jpg and seeing if I can post it via photobucket. I was hoping there would be an easier way.

glad to help kova - let me know if there is anything else

delhi
If I understand correctly Valeo manufactures this clima compressor for Volvo, isn't it?

I will try to find out Valeo's part number and check if it can be purchased for less money..
 

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We have a new 2011 S40 with just over 3000 miles on it. We live in the hot, desert southwest. The a/c is acting up. It sounds like what most of posters on this thread have complained about -a/c works great for 20 mins and then no cold air comes out, just warm air. The one thing no one mentioned is that when this happens the air has a really foul smell when the warm air comes into car. The car is under warranty, so we will bring it in for service. I just wanted to have some idea as to whether this is common [apparently, it is] and since I figure we are not going to be able to replicate it when we bring it in, your comments regarding compressor clutch will help. Anyone else have this weird smell ? Thanks!
 

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2008 S40 AC Issues

I have an 08' S40 that is experiencing the same issues with the strange smell and humidity. The AC will be ice cold, then really warm. I had the local mechanic look at the issue and repair some sort of top side valve and recharge the system. The fix worked great for a week. Now I have the same issues again. DebitNM, let me know what the dealership does with your car. I don't want to have to replace the whole compressor.
 

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Have a service appt. on Monday; will report back on results.
 

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They did an A/C cleaning treatment for the smell which consisted of a new pollen filer and some kind of cleaning agent. As far as the lack of cold air, they did some upgrades to software[??] and said to see if that helped. They also said to try and keep a log if when it happened again as the engine is supposed to shut the compressor off if you are accelerating so that the engine power goes to the acceleration instead of the A/C. Not sure if I am explaining it correctly, but that what's I I understood them to say. We'll see, but the temps have dropped and we won't likely need A/C till next year. Thank goodness for 5 yr/60,000 mile warranty!
 

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Not sure if this is related, but the thermostat needed to be replaced after a diagnostic check was done due to "Check engine light" coming on. I am guessing it was related. Funny, there first thought was that it needed software update. Is that the new auto-reply these days?
 

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Not sure if this is related, but the thermostat needed to be replaced after a diagnostic check was done due to "Check engine light" coming on. I am guessing it was related. Funny, there first thought was that it needed software update. Is that the new auto-reply these days?
I think the AC does have a problem on some years that a software upgrade corrects, so it's not a stretch to throw that guess out there first.
 

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Actually had that happen to me. The hot/ cold dampers weren't working corectly and a software update fixed the problem.
 

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My Dad and I did the shim-removal fix over the weekend, and thankfully my A/C is now pumping better than it's ever been. Worked wonders at 93F the other day, when before it would have crapped out any higher than 86F. Ultimately there were two shims in there, one really thin one and one thicker one, and we took both of them out. Bought a feeler gauge but didn't end up using it, just went by gut instinct with regards to the gap. Rented a clutch holder (not necessary for the job, can hold it steady through other means) from AutoZone, and bought a steering wheel puller (not quite what we were looking for but it worked), and had a hell of a time getting that clutch plate off. I would say the trick to pulling the plate off was tightening the three M5 bolts all the way down and making sure they are evenly tightened, because it doesn't seem to want to come off when the pressure is not distributed perfectly around the three bolts (we went through numerous M5 bolts and washers). Another crucial element was using a phillips head M6 bolt in the center, so the tip of the center puller rod had a notch to hold steady in, so it didn't slip off when tightening. Also when all finished, make sure to hammer that bad boy back on nice and snug, and tighten the original M6 bolt down pretty good too. We did not tighten it enough on our first attempt and the clutch would not engage, so we hit it down some more and bingo. Not such a bad fix, hopefully it will last a while. Thanks!!!
 

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Since this is in the sticky, figured I'd update. Had this problem when it started to get hot. AC would start fine with the car, but if the compressor toggled it would never pick back up. Looked at the options, including the proper reshimming, but I figured I'd give this a try first:

I couldn't bring myself to use actual bread clips, but a $2 pack of "assorted C clips" from Advance Auto does the trick too. Here's how I did it in 20 minutes, without jacking the car up:

Grab some <s>3/8"</s> EDIT: 3/16"? or 1/4" <s>C</s> EDIT: E clips:


Locate the AC compressor. We want to shim out the bump stops:


I found the best (by best, I mean easiest) place to insert the clips is between the bump stop and it's mounting arm. You can start it by hand. Then, clip it onto the rubber standoff. Wedging the clutch down with a screwdriver helps a lot:


Using pliers and/or a screwdriver, shimmy the clip so the open end faces outward. This way, while it is spinning, centrifugal force will tend to keep the clip in place rather than having it fly off:


Final result should look like this:


Repeat for all three bump stops. This immediately fixed the issue for me.

:beer:
 

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I couldn't bring myself to use actual bread clips, but a $2 pack of "assorted C clips" from Advance Auto does the trick too. Here's how I did it in 20 minutes, without jacking the car up:

Grab some 3/8" C clips:

I think that's a typo - 3/16" is going to be the size, right? 3/8 looks to be huge.

In my case, something seems to have gotten in there and pushed on the rubber nubs as it spun. They're all sitting at a funny angle and seem to be slightly torn underneath. I wonder if they're available as replacement parts...
 

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Since this is in the sticky, figured I'd update. Had this problem when it started to get hot. AC would start fine with the car, but if the compressor toggled it would never pick back up. Looked at the options, including the proper reshimming, but I figured I'd give this a try first:



I couldn't bring myself to use actual bread clips, but a $2 pack of "assorted C clips" from Advance Auto does the trick too. Here's how I did it in 20 minutes, without jacking the car up:

Grab some 3/8" C clips:

:
Thanks for the write up and pics! I did the same repair this weekend. So far so good.
 

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as i said in another thread

hey first off wanted to say thanks quality of the tech in this thread !!!

2ND is most of these s40`s dual climate or auto cause my s40 does not have the dual & i`m have the exact same issue as the O.P. is having hopefully mine isnt the comp. clutch but its wishful thinking lol
 

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Did the same thing on Sunday, removed the thicker shim and left the small one in for a later fix, thanks to Autozone for the loaner tools, helped out greatly. No problems with A/C now and it's pushing a 100 outside today.



My Dad and I did the shim-removal fix over the weekend, and thankfully my A/C is now pumping better than it's ever been. Worked wonders at 93F the other day, when before it would have crapped out any higher than 86F. Ultimately there were two shims in there, one really thin one and one thicker one, and we took both of them out. Bought a feeler gauge but didn't end up using it, just went by gut instinct with regards to the gap. Rented a clutch holder (not necessary for the job, can hold it steady through other means) from AutoZone, and bought a steering wheel puller (not quite what we were looking for but it worked), and had a hell of a time getting that clutch plate off. I would say the trick to pulling the plate off was tightening the three M5 bolts all the way down and making sure they are evenly tightened, because it doesn't seem to want to come off when the pressure is not distributed perfectly around the three bolts (we went through numerous M5 bolts and washers). Another crucial element was using a phillips head M6 bolt in the center, so the tip of the center puller rod had a notch to hold steady in, so it didn't slip off when tightening. Also when all finished, make sure to hammer that bad boy back on nice and snug, and tighten the original M6 bolt down pretty good too. We did not tighten it enough on our first attempt and the clutch would not engage, so we hit it down some more and bingo. Not such a bad fix, hopefully it will last a while. Thanks!!!
 

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I think that's a typo - 3/16" is going to be the size, right? 3/8 looks to be huge.
Good catch - I didn't actually measure but they're either 3/16" or 1/4", will update. It came in an assortment pack (quickly searching Advance, looks like Dorman 13325, see summit[/ur]) with 3 of each, so I don't have any of that size to caliper.

In my case, something seems to have gotten in there and pushed on the rubber nubs as it spun. They're all sitting at a funny angle and seem to be slightly torn underneath. I wonder if they're available as replacement parts.
My plan, when the rubber things fail (what a horrible design, shim all you want but the throwout clearance is set with rubber bump stops??) I'll probably throw some brass rivnuts + cap screws in there. If the noise is unbearable, I'd probably pony up for rubber tipped set-screws.
 

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thank you for the c-clip idea i`m doing it tomorrow !! & will report back lol
 
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