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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got Bilstein SP struts and the diameter of the shock is much larger than this of the OEM.

The bumper stop won't fit around it nor would it be good if it did. It would create major drag and noise!
Am I suspose to install the Bilstein without it!!! It's kind of scary!!!!

Here are some pics!
I'm in the middle of it. If no one can help soon I'll have to put things back together! :(



 

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find the way to cut them inside (file them with a knife or something like that). as long as there is enough rubber left you should be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
One thing I can do is cut them short! Is that what you are talking about?

Inside won't do because they are way too different in diameter!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well I just did my rear breaks, pads and rotors. I'm going to do the front and if no one knowledgeable is online I'll put it back the way it was for now :(

But I'll still need to find a solution....

Btw I just found out my rear shocks are leaking but I'm not sure I'll have time today...
 

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Virtually all Bilstein struts come with an internal bump stop located at the bottom of the strut (front strut only). You don't use the factory part at all.

Mod for going WAY low.
 

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I would install the bilsteins without the bumpstop. Try not to bottom the car out, good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I ended up cutting the bump stop. . . :( we'll see . . . thanks folks. I'll keep you posted on the progress. All brakes done and the right front trust. Attacking the left front :p a lot of work!!!!
 

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I installed Bilsteins on my S40 over two years ago and still love them. I had the same question when I installed mine. Here is a direct quote from the Bilstein installation instructions;

Fit original/ BILSTEIN mounting parts on strut in
reverse sequence to removal, except for bump stop,
since BILSTEIN- strut has built in bump stop.

Please refer to diagram to identify which parts will
be replaced with BILSTEIN- supplied components also.
If there is no dust cover delivered by BILSTEIN,
the original one is to be reused.
ATTENTION: Some models are equipped with
plastic- dustcover cap also. This cap do not reuse!


hope this helps
delhi
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Thank you Delhi!!!

This is great info! I ended up cutting the bump stop to shorten it so it fits.
My guess is that it won't do much since there is an internal one, so hopefully all is well . . . I hope!!!

I'm just done and dead tired :p
I did 4 rotors and respected pads + 2 front strust in about . . . lol . . . 10 hours! with a lot of figuring things out. It's my first time. I learnd a lot.




It was too dark so I decided to check every thing tomorrow. But when pulling my car back in the garage I could ear a shimy noice, metalic sounding. I hope it's just the new pads an rotors . . . . we'll see tomorrow :(

Oh and my emergency brake is way loose now :( an other thing I'm going to have to fix.

I still need to do the rear shocks...

Summary of the day: I don't feel all that sure about my work...

I installed Bilsteins on my S40 over two years ago and still love them. I had the same question when I installed mine. Here is a direct quote from the Bilstein installation instructions;

Fit original/ BILSTEIN mounting parts on strut in
reverse sequence to removal, except for bump stop,
since BILSTEIN- strut has built in bump stop.

Please refer to diagram to identify which parts will
be replaced with BILSTEIN- supplied components also.
If there is no dust cover delivered by BILSTEIN,
the original one is to be reused.
ATTENTION: Some models are equipped with
plastic- dustcover cap also. This cap do not reuse!


hope this helps
delhi
 

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I hear yah. Just finished one side replacing the rotors and pads. Taking forever it seems, but I started late today because I was procrastinating the damn job. The only person I can fire is myself! An enlightening experience. This thread will come in handy when getting Bilstein struts and shocks myself.

TG, if anything, get replacement bump stops from Bilstein.

Here's some info for yah:

http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/description.php/II=10/CA=1

I'm not certain, but I think those can be put on Bilstein's, from reading this post:

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f425/h-rs-stock-struts-shocks-equals-fail-75527/
 

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I hope you don't mind me saying so, but the abs sensor cable that is fastened to the body is in the holder upside down. It needs enough slack to move when the vehicle is steered to the right and the suspension is extended. It looks like you did a really good job overall.
 

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Hmmm, I just noticed that. It looks twisted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I hope you don't mind me saying so, but the abs sensor cable that is fastened to the body is in the holder upside down. It needs enough slack to move when the vehicle is steered to the right and the suspension is extended. It looks like you did a really good job overall.
Hmmm.... I don't mind you saying so at all but I did not touch the right holder! How could it have been switched... I going to have to check the other side for comparison. I noticed that too when I posted the picture. I'm not sure what the deal is!

Unless! It's loose and I did not noticed...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Thanks Red_Zone but I'm not sure what I'm going to do now that everything is mounted. I am not looking forward to do this again :p
I'll probably go slow for a week and see if I get any hit and adjust accordingly if I feel trouble...

TG, if anything, get replacement bump stops from Bilstein.
Here's some info for yah:
http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/description.php/II=10/CA=1
I'm not certain, but I think those can be put on Bilstein's, from reading this post:
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f425/h-rs-stock-struts-shocks-equals-fail-75527/

TIP:
I have the greatest tip for you, something I came-up with in my own:
When you take the front trust off clean an use some PB blaster ahead of time. Try to protect the CV boot with a rag since penetrating oil is not that great for rubbers. And then use various screw drivers and tools to push it out of the knuckle. There's a small slot hole on the strut metal bracket to help you start it. That's not the tip... :p

To put it back I found that it was actually very difficult. It would not slide back in even fully compressed with a jack. So what I did is use the car knuckle bolt to pry the knuckle open. I use the plate of my break piston compression tool an slide it in the knuckle opening. Then I threaded the bolt from the other side until it pushed on the plate. It really did the trick and avoided hammering on anything. You just have to make sure the plate does not interfere with the last position of the struts.

Big down side: that bolt is long and it takes for ever to thread it and un-thread it twice! But since I did not have a prying tool it worked just great.

I hear yah. Just finished one side replacing the rotors and pads. Taking forever it seems, but I started late today because I was procrastinating the damn job. The only person I can fire is myself! An enlightening experience. This thread will come in handy when getting Bilstein struts and shocks myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
good job, What kind of rotors are those? they look nice
They are EBC USR slotted.
Unfortunately they won't stay black. That's just the coating it should wear off in no time . . . too bad because I really like them black!
I'm trying it out. I can not vouch for it. We'll see...
 

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Hmm given the internal bump stop, im not sure about the repurcussions of leaving an (albeit shortened) external bump stop in situ...

Regarding getting the strut assembly back into the steering knuckle i learnt the hard way: the 1st time i bashed my bilsteins, but not quite far enough such that i had an intermittent clunk from the front-left. This prompted much head-scratching, but deep down i knew i just had to redo the fronts (i.e. the front left). This solved the problem and was accomplished ridiculously quickly sans-hammer. How? Insert the square nub of a 1/4" socket wrench into the slot at the rear of the knuckle and turn. this will pry the knuckle open a smidge and allow the strut to slip in more or less. I should note that wd40 and a breaker bar became my other friends doing that strut job.

it should go without saying that an alignment should be done sooner rather than later. also the noise youre hearing is the new pads/rotors. i should also say that i got away without any special tool (couldnt source one anyhow) for compressing the rear pistons (necessary in order to get enough room for the new rotors and fresh pads) by using a G-clamp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks hapnstans

Seriously! that trick I described to open the knuckle works amazing and requires very little strength. Once the knuckle is pryied out sufficiently it sleeps easy.
It's just long but it is that much easier!

And yea the Bilstein don't have as much locating features than the OEM. The OEM design of that bracket is by far superior in my opinion. There is no mistake to make with the OEM. Oh well... on the other end the Bilstein uses a thicker material.

There is a little bent tab on the Bistein. The first one I stopped pushing at the level of the knuckle edge. But the struts where rotated in such a way that the tab was not resting on the metal. I hope it will stay positioned otherwise I'll have to relocate it. Once I learned that from the first one I made sure the second one was better positioned.... It's all hard to explain without a picture :p


Regarding getting the strut assembly back into the steering knuckle i learnt the hard way: the 1st time i bashed my bilsteins, but not quite far enough such that i had an intermittent clunk from the front-left. This prompted much head-scratching, but deep down i knew i just had to redo the fronts (i.e. the front left). This solved the problem and was accomplished ridiculously quickly sans-hammer. How? Insert the square nub of a 1/4" socket wrench into the slot at the rear of the knuckle and turn. this will pry the knuckle open a smidge and allow the strut to slip in more or less. I should note that wd40 and a breaker bar became my other friends doing that strut job.
 

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oh dont forget to check the sticky re: bleeding brakes / clutch fluid. come to think of it my park brake is in need of adjustment too...

some more reflections:
- i went with akebonos ceramics front and rear (noise/bite/dust pick two) - they are quiet, have little dust, but lack initial bite compared to oem metallics. rotors were zimmerman coat-z non-slotted non-drilled. the oem rotors were only lipping a little, so that may have been a bit unnecessary.
- i went with bilstein hd (non sport) paired with oem springs and ipd endlinks/rsb 20000km ago. the car had 100000km on the odo at the time with oem shocks that were shot; i think that makes a valid comparison difficult. i suppose i expected the digressive valving on the monotube billies would be more effective (ala ohlins dfv - i did send them an email btw re: s40/v50/c30). the ride is firm, but comfortable as opposed to soft/plush or harsh/annoying on our not-so-smooth roads. im much happier since i changed from continental sportcontacts to extremecontact dw about 10oookm ago which of course is also part of the ride/noise equation. if i had to do it again? honestly as a discrete driver i would seriously consider fresh oem struts or bilstein touring (neither are monotube; i wonder if they are actually the same shock...)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I put Akebono in the rear and hawk HPS in the front...

I thought the Bilstein Sport where the same as the HD except for some length difference and dampening strength but I could be wrong. I other words I thought they were both mono-tube. Again I could be wrong... ;)

I know about break bleeding. I'll have to do that soon... Hopefully it is more a maintenance thing than required when changing pads...
And yes an alignment is in order. I have to change my rear shocks first though...
 
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