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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am going to take my s60 to a track day in place of my GTI. The coils on my GTI are acting up, making some popping noises etc. I don't trust them on the track.

The s60 has 118k miles on her. Before i go i plan to do the following:


1. Oil change. Im going to use the Liqui molly 0w-30 full synthetic
2. I am going to use some liqui molly engine flush in the current oil

3. Change the fluid and filter in the Haldex system
4. Change the fluid in the Diffs with Motul gear 300
5. install the strut tower brace ive been too lazy to install
6. Get an alignment (hit a nasty pothole and bent a wheel)
7. Wash and wax the car (because a smooth car goes faster obviously :p )
8. Change the brake pads to something suitable for track duty. Ive had a few suggestions.



Ive also been running a blend of ethanol. Around e20. Roughly 10% more ethanol than is found in pump gas. Equates to about a 4% increase in fueling needs, but it increases octane about 2 points, and has helped my car stay consistent in hot weather. Its a small change but has made a big difference in the car. The trick is to keep the blend more or less consistent, which means math. I also let the car "learn" the new trim for about 20 miles after each filup.


Most likely I will run this same blend on the track.


Can anyone think of anything i should do in addition to this? (besides the standard tire pressure stuff) Also general info about your experiences on road tracks would be helpful. I will be at VIR.
 

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I wonder if the popping suspension in your GTI is, in fact, due to stretched subframe bolts, which was a known issue on the forums back in my MKV days. It causes random pops and clunks especially going over certain kinds of bumps or doing so while turning. It sounds a lot like a lot of other suspension issues so people often throw a lot of money at other possible sources incorrectly trying to chase the issue, and many people including techs are unaware of this particular issue, so maybe do some digging online before trusting a shop to fix it properly. Tyrolsport and possibly some other vendors make stronger subframe bolts and collars to lock them into place. Merely replacing them with new stock bolts or tightening them will only be a temporary fix. Anyhow, I’m not sure if this applies to your generation of GTI but back when I was heavily into VWs (til around 2014) it was a problem that was seen on a number of Audi’s and GTIs including my own. I developed the popping subframe bolt problem autoxing my GTI, in fact.
 

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You forgot the single most important thing...

Change your brake fluid. Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time, lowering the boiling point.

Bring a torque wrench to tighten lug bolts after the first session (at least).

If you have and OBD reader, bring it. It's easy to trigger various overheating codes (tranny, Haldex)

Let us know how it goes!
 

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You forgot the single most important thing...

Change your brake fluid. Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time, lowering the boiling point.

Bring a torque wrench to tighten lug bolts after the first session (at least).

If you have and OBD reader, bring it. It's easy to trigger various overheating codes (tranny, Haldex)

Let us know how it goes!
Was about to say this, cooking your brakes is gonna result in you having a really bad time. Use a good higher-end fluid, here's a handy comparison table
https://www.lelandwest.com/brake-fluid-comparison-chart.cfm
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

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The popping sounds could be an upper strut mount bearing. Have them checked.
 

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I wonder if the popping suspension in your GTI is, in fact, due to stretched subframe bushings,.
I experienced this bigly at the track. Could not duplicate on the street no matter how hard I tried. Had the VW dealer install the factory fix (new bolts and toothed washers). Fixed!
 

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Is Ian Stewart a member here? He used to campaign an RD at autox and I’m pretty sure he was or is a Nationals caliber driver, so he might have some platform specific pointers for you. I’m not sure if he is on here or just on the Facebook pages but maybe get in touch with [email protected] by DM whom I believe is his brother and he might be able to get him to make an appearance here with his setup suggestions.
 

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my response

I am going to take my s60 to a track day in place of my GTI. The coils on my GTI are acting up, making some popping noises etc. I don't trust them on the track.

The s60 has 118k miles on her. Before i go i plan to do the following:


1. Oil change. Im going to use the Liqui molly 0w-30 full synthetic
2. I am going to use some liqui molly engine flush in the current oil

3. Change the fluid and filter in the Haldex system
4. Change the fluid in the Diffs with Motul gear 300
5. install the strut tower brace ive been too lazy to install
6. Get an alignment (hit a nasty pothole and bent a wheel)
7. Wash and wax the car (because a smooth car goes faster obviously :p )
8. Change the brake pads to something suitable for track duty. Ive had a few suggestions.



Ive also been running a blend of ethanol. Around e20. Roughly 10% more ethanol than is found in pump gas. Equates to about a 4% increase in fueling needs, but it increases octane about 2 points, and has helped my car stay consistent in hot weather. Its a small change but has made a big difference in the car. The trick is to keep the blend more or less consistent, which means math. I also let the car "learn" the new trim for about 20 miles after each filup.


Most likely I will run this same blend on the track.


Can anyone think of anything i should do in addition to this? (besides the standard tire pressure stuff) Also general info about your experiences on road tracks would be helpful. I will be at VIR.

you mentioned doing an alignment, due to bending a wheel - I am sure you replaced the wheel - correct?
 

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Is Ian Stewart a member here? He used to campaign an RD at autox and I’m pretty sure he was or is a Nationals caliber driver, so he might have some platform specific pointers for you. I’m not sure if he is on here or just on the Facebook pages but maybe get in touch with [email protected] by DM whom I believe is his brother and he might be able to get him to make an appearance here with his setup suggestions.
Haven't seen a post from Ian in quite awhile. He posted often when he first got his RD and was preparing it for the track - good stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The popping sounds could be an upper strut mount bearing. Have them checked.
I am actually running coilovers right now. I "Think" The noise is the spring moving on its perch, but im not positive. I havent pulled the wheel off to take a look.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I experienced this bigly at the track. Could not duplicate on the street no matter how hard I tried. Had the VW dealer install the factory fix (new bolts and toothed washers). Fixed!
What generation GTI? I have a mk7

Also im ONLY hearing the noise from the front passenger side suspension area.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
What generation GTI? I have a mk7

Also im ONLY hearing the noise from the front passenger side suspension area.
I should also note this started after i had a fully loaded car and went on a road trip. I was getting noise out of all the suspension pieces. The only one still making strange noise is the front passenger coil assembly. after my last autox session, which was on rough pavement, the sway bar endlink was catching on the plastic of the fender liner. Im inclined to blame the coils, but i guess ill find out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I have a 2007 Mk V. My popping sound came up through the floorboard in front of my feet.
This is very specifically coming from the coilover area. I also didnt have any popping when i had the thing on the track back in may.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
you mentioned doing an alignment, due to bending a wheel - I am sure you replaced the wheel - correct?
I replaced all 4 of my wheels with new OEMs back in march. I kept the old wheels, and put it on. Same design but the old wheels coating is trashed so it looks bleh :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I should note most of this is maintenance related
As of now I am buying the following:

1. 2 liters of motul 75w-90 double ester gear oil (angle gear and rear diff)
2. FCP euros Haldex 4 kit, including the filter, an extracter and gasket
3. FCP euros 0w-30 Liquimolly oil change kit, with filter
4. Liquimolly engine flush
5. EBC yellow stuff brake pads. Theyre the cheapest track grade pads, and this is likely a one off.
6. Motul RBF 600 .5 liters
 

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Biggest thing to consider is going to be your tires, brakes, and brake fluid which their longevity and performance will be directly proportional to your driving style. Most new track day/HPDE drivers tend to accelerate too fast into the corners and brake too hard. If you haven’t learned already, you’ll find it to be faster (and to save your brakes) around the corners to just touch the brakes before entering the corner to get the right speed and then modulate the accelerator around the apex before going back into full throttle. If you get the brakes too hot the pads will start breaking down fast and you’ll get unreliable breaking and inconsistent feel.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Biggest thing to consider is going to be your tires, brakes, and brake fluid which their longevity and performance will be directly proportional to your driving style. Most new track day/HPDE drivers tend to accelerate too fast into the corners and brake too hard. If you haven’t learned already, you’ll find it to be faster (and to save your brakes) around the corners to just touch the brakes before entering the corner to get the right speed and then modulate the accelerator around the apex before going back into full throttle. If you get the brakes too hot the pads will start breaking down fast and you’ll get unreliable breaking and inconsistent feel.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Thanks for the input! Im still relatively a novice at all things motorsport. I have 2 years of autox under my belt. But know that doesnt directly translate here. I will have Rbf600 brake fluid and EBC yellow pads before hitting the track. HOPEFULLY that will offset the brake fade ive experienced in the past on this car.
 
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